RacingJunk’s Top Five How-To Articles of 2021

Click Here to Begin Slideshow With more and more people with extra time on their hands, 2021 became the year of the project car! Let’s take a look at the top five How-To articles from 2021. Click Here to Begin Slideshow

5. How to Set and Fine Tune Holley Carburetor Float Level

In this video, RacingJunk contributor Wayne Scraba walks you through setting and fine-tuning the floats on a common Holley carburetor.

To begin with, set your carb in a safe area with good ventilation and something to catch any fuel which exits the float bowl. Check to see if your floats are center or side hung.

Preparation depends on what kind of fuel pump you've got, as these are usually set wet. If your pump is electric, just turn it on, let it run and rock the fender of the car before checking the fuel level in the float. For a mechanical pump, you'll want to let the engine idle until it stabilizes, then turn it off prior to removing the sight plug from the primary side of the carb.

If your fuel level is about right, it should just trickle out of the sight plug. To adjust it, loosen the lock screw, then turn the nut to lower or raise it. Once it's set, simply retighten the lock screw. You can repeat the process on the secondary side of the carb. Once you're done, reinstall both sight plugs.

Beyond the basics of setting the floats, Wayne also shows you how to fine-tune them to compensate for a car that's running rich or lean. You can do this for both the primary and secondary sides of the carb.

If your car is running rich, drop the fuel level a tiny bit lower than the standard level; if it's running lean, raise the fuel level. Don't go too far, though. If your fuel level is too high, it'll spill, while setting it too low can lead to your engine running out of fuel while under demand.

Make sure to check out Wayne's quick-and-easy tutorial in the video below! He doesn't just tell you, but shows you how to set the floats to perfection.

4. How to Diagnose and Repair Rack and Pinion Bushings

In this, Part Three of our suspension repair series, I'm going to discuss how to determine if your steering rack bushings are bad, and if they're bad, how to change them.  Next we'll go into how to diagnose and replace the steering rack itself.  I'll also quickly rehash how to quickly and easily make sure both front tires are pointed straight down the road once you've completed the required repairs to your suspension.

CLICK HERE FOR FULL ARTICLE

3. How to Set Up an MSD Distributor Part I

The coolest, most powerful, most feature laden ignition system in the world can’t function alone.  It needs to be triggered by a distributor (or crank trigger) of some sort.  MSD Performance tells us that many of the ignition boxes in their arsenal can be triggered by way of a set of points or any number of OEM (and select aftermarket) electronic ignition systems.  Something like a GM HEI, a Pertronix Ignitor electronic, a Mallory 9000, a Hall effect distributor and many others can be used in conjunction with the 6AL-2.  The best trigger setup is most likely a matching MSD magnetic pickup distributor of some sort. Or even better, a crank trigger system.

CLICK HERE FOR FULL ARTICLE!

2. How To Adjust Mopar Torsion Bars

Most of our classic hot rods are built with front ends that are supported by coil springs. However, our A-, B, and E-body classic Mopar rods built with torsion bar front suspensions. With coil spring suspensions, ride height and stiffness are controlled by the coil springs we install. With torsion bar suspensions, these are controlled by the torsion bar. In this article we’re going to discuss what torsion bars are and how they control ride height and stiffness. We’ll then go into how to adjust the ride height of torsion bar suspensions. Finally, we’ll talk about how to replace them to get a stiffer ride.

CLICK HERE FOR FULL ARTICLE!

1. How to Start an Engine That’s Been Sitting for… Awhile

If you’re pulling your first classic out of a junk-covered barn or chopping it out of the undergrowth, chances are you aren’t going to be able to just pop the key in the ignition and drive off. Don’t be discouraged, though; take a look under the hood. If all the fundamental components are in place, it’s not as hard as you might think to get an old Detroit hunk of iron to sputter back to life.

There are a few essential supplies that everyone needs for a “will it run” adventure. Always make sure you have a fully charged battery and an external fuel source in the form of a jerry can, bottle or jug - a way to provide 12v power to the starter and ignition. Now, she may not be ready to run and move under her own power just yet, but at the very least you will have somewhere to start.

CLICK HERE FOR FULL ARTICLE!

Back to Post

Be the first to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.


*


I agree to receive emails from RacingJunk.com. I understand that I can unsubscribe at any time. Privacy Policy