Upgrading to EFI can be complicated and intimidating, but it doesn’t have to be. With Quick Fuel Technology’s self-tuning QFI system, it can be done in a single afternoon. The QFI system is an innovative throttle-body assembly that bolts on to any 4150-style intake manifold. So go ahead and enjoy the drivability, fuel mileage, and cold-start benefits of EFI!
Quick Fuel Technology has grown exponentially since starting in 1998 and have changed the benchmark by which performance carburetors are measured. They are always looking to the future and constantly seeking the next innovation. With their past experience and racetrack development, they continue their pursuit of horsepower and efficiency.
In this video, you’ll learn all about the Quick Fuel Technology QFI electronic fuel injection system, one of the industry’s most advanced and flexible EFI packages available. It offers your better drivability, increased fuel economy, easy installation with detailed instructions, superior reliability, user friendly tuning options, and smoother performance. That’s a winning combination for any previously carbureted vehicle.
This video walks us through a step-by-step look at this highly advanced Quick Fuel Technology QFI electronic fuel injection system. Ken Ferrell from Quick Fuel takes us through this process.
You can put this QFI system on any engine from 250-525 horsepower. The system comes complete and includes all the sensors, wiring, throttle body, and instructions, basically everything you’ll need to get the system up and running. Ken shows us how this works on a 1972 Barracuda.
The system includes a host of key features from the handheld controller for both easy setup and tune-ability, to the DVD for a more finer laptop tuning.
The throttle body itself features annular discharge boosters and a special patented idle transition slot for better fuel atomization and distribution. The system is self-learning, and you have your choice of either a black diamond finish or a polished finish.
QFT offers two system options: the QFT 500 base kit, which includes a throttle body wideband O2 sensor with installation bung, fuel inlet kit, ECU wiring harness, QFT handheld controller, DVD software, and data cable, as well as the hardware and installation manual. The master kit includes everything in the base kit, as well as the pressure regulator and gauge, EFI pump and filter, and hose and required fittings.
And now on to the installation! The first things you want to do when you’re prepping a car for an EFI install are to disconnect the battery, mark you vacuum hoses, and remove the hose. Next you’ll remove the throttle linkage, remove the fuel line for the inlet of the carburetor, and remove the bolts holding down the carburetor. Then you’ll remove the carburetor from the intake manifold.
He advises that now is a good time to remove the old gasket and make sure the surface is clean, and replace it with the new one from the kit. Next, you’ll install the throttle body with the pre-installed wiring harness and fuel inlet kit. The large back port is for the PCV valve that you would have marked earlier. Install that, and then drop the throttle body on the studs. Reinstall the mounting hardware.
The throttle linkage is identical to the original, so your cable will bolt up just fine. Install the throttle cable, return spring, and tighten everything down.
When you’re all finished mounting the throttle body, you’ll want to swap out the carbureted regulator, which is low pressure, for the high pressure EFI regulator from the master kit.
The computer will require a signal from the temperature sensor, so remove the pipe bung that was in the port and replace that with the sensor that comes in the kit, tighten it, and connect it to the main harness.
The kit requires that you run a vacuum line from the throttle body into the ECU, which they mounted inside the car in this video. It can also be mounted on the firewall, but they decided on a spot under the dashboard. He runs the vacuum hose from the firewall and hooks it up to the throttle body on the lower port.
The key to a self-larning system like the QFI is a wideband O2 sensor. You’ll have to drill a hole in the exhaust system and install an O2 bung. the one supplied in the kit is a specially designed stainless steel bung that can either be welded to the exhaust or it can be clamped on using the gasket and clamps provided in the kit. Then install the wideband O2 into the O2 bung.
Now that the throttle body, the regulator, and the sensors have all been installed, you’re going to move to the back and start on the fuel system. Ken advises that a vented tank is a must, and luckily the one being used during this installation in the video is an aftermarket tank, which means it already has a vent pre-installed.
The fuel system is a crucial component of any EFI installation, and Quick Fuel makes it easy with the addition of the master fuel kit. It contains everything needed, like the fuel pump, fuel lines, hoses, and fittings to complete your installation.
A return line will be necessary to bypass from the regulator mounted in the engine compartment to the fuel tank. The one being used in the video is mounted at the top. Next, you’ll want to install the fuel pump and filter supplied in the master kit. Ken installs theirs on the frame rail in front of the rear axle, low where gravity can feed the inlet.
They made a small bracket and mounted it to the frame of the car, and then installed a positive from the computer to the positive on the post, and a ground strap from the frame to the negative on the fuel pump. Then install your inline filter and attach it to the chassis, making sure that the arrow flows the direction of your fuel flow.
Then finish off the installation by hooking the return line from the regulator back to the tank, the pressure from the EFI pump to the side of the regulator, and from the throttle body on the fuel inlet to the regulator. They installed the fuel pressure gauge up at the regulator so they can adjust the pressure and monitor it at the same time.
Next, you’ll move on to the wiring installation. With the fuel system buttoned up, you’re ready to move on to the wiring harness. They decided to install the ECU inside the car on this build and installed the main harness inside, as well, passing both the ECU main connector connecting to the sub harness on the throttle body, which is pre-installed, making it an easy installation.
The harness comes equipped with 11 color-coded wires and an easy-to-follow instructional packet that will take you through different ignition system setups.
With the computer mounted to the firewall and the harness installed, you’ll move on to installing the fused 12V to the positive battery post, the yellow wire to the fuel pump (positive), and the pink heat switch to the key post on the ignition. You’ll want to make sure the key switch is positive during cranking and when the ignition is on.
You get four different ignition timing control options with the QFI system. HEI and Ready-to-Run read your non-computer control time, or for computer controlled timing you can run it with or without a CDI box.
Just a few more steps and your system will be ready to start programming! It’s very important that you connect the positive on the battery first, then connect the ground for the battery. At this point, turn the key to the “on” position, check the fuel pump for proper operation, and check for fuel leaks.
Make sure you don’t start the engine yet! First, program the ECU. Plug in the handheld controller to the main harness. The wires are labeled and they can only go on one way, so it makes installation very easy. The QFI controller allows you to enter the parameters needed for the ECU to properly run the vehicle.
To set up the controller, go to the initial setup, number of cylinders, number of injectors, the injector size. There are base information in the instructions, but you need to know your specific engine specs including the cubic inches , distributor type, etc. This will allow you to set up the engine timing along with some advanced settings like fan control, fuel pump parameters, cranking fuel settings, and more.
Now just for the final adjustments. Idle until the cooling temp reaches 150 degrees and adjust the fuel pressure to 45 psi. When the temperature reaches 180 degrees, adjust the idle to between 900 and 1000 rpm. Also adjust the primary and secondary shaft. They should move identically. Then tighten it down. Just make sure you check all the fittings for leaks, and then you should be ready to go!
The car will run much smoother, you get more power, it creates better fuel efficiency, and you get smoother performance. This will help with any car you’re taking down the strip, or just the car you like to cruise down the back roads in.