REAR AXLE

Old 01-05-2012, 11:09 PM
  #1  
peterg8756
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Default REAR AXLE

i know this seems dumb but can someone tell me what a gun drilled axle is..??? thanks .... peterg[/b]
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:56 AM
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TopspeedLowet
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Default There will be a hole all the way thru

The center of the axle will have a hole drilled thru the center of it to lighten and strengthen the axle. The result looks like a gun barrel.
Bruce
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Old 01-06-2012, 04:49 AM
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outlaw256
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ive never really understood the reasoning behind that either.if a axle has meat takin from the center of it how does that make it stronger, when in fact it changes the molucules if the steel by drilling it then leaves a space for it to implode on itself.
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Old 01-06-2012, 04:10 PM
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markdunlap
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Default Rear

The reson I understand for gun drilling is to lighten the axle, not make it stronger.

The strength of the round shape is in the outer diameter. The inner core is realitively less strong. As the O.D. increases so does strength.

And there are only so many options the Mfg. can sell you, so this is a way of getting more out of you.
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Old 01-06-2012, 05:22 PM
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TheYellaBrick
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The thing is, The infinitesimal amount of material ie; weight removed will have almost ZERO effect as the rotating mass is so darned tiny. Weight off of wheels(aluminum over steel) CAN be measured in increased acceleration of said rotating mass.

Need to get the scoop from an axle manufacturer on this subject.

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Old 01-06-2012, 06:27 PM
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TheRabbit
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Ounces make pounds. It's not that just gun drilling the two axles are gonna make a difference. It takes the entire vehicle being built in the same maner. Even my 4 link bolts and shock bolts are gun drilled.
The lighter a vehicle is the faster it goes and when building a light weight vehicle you have to shed ounces / pounds from everywhere.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:39 PM
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TheYellaBrick
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It'd be interesting to add up all the drilled/lighter weight parts vs the undrilled heavier parts.
When I crewed/fabricated for a Winston West team back '93, we were also anal as all getout about weight so we could ADD lead exactly WHERE we needed it, down low and on the left side fore and/or aft. In NASCAR we had a minimum weight to meet and that was actually pretty heavy compared to drag racing. A lot of that weight was in steel tubing for the cage system which is high/top weight.
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:57 AM
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outlaw256
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but in reality if you drilled every bolt and axle and anything else you can on a car you aint gonna come up with a pound of metal.
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:45 AM
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TheRabbit
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Originally Posted by outlaw256
but in reality if you drilled every bolt and axle and anything else you can on a car you aint gonna come up with a pound of metal.
It's over 3lbs per axle on a 35 spline axle.
One of the best ways to loose weight is lite weight brakes and rotors. And make sure you have no or very little drag on the brakes.
I'd be willing to bet some trucks have as much as 50lbs of drilled weight taken out. I've seen frames with more than 600 holes in them. All that extra weight can be moved towards the rear or placed where you want it. Lighter doesn't always mean faster, (in mud racing anyway) but being able to put weight where you want it is an advantage. Our rules allow you to build a frame out of .083. My truck is a factory frame (with a backhalf and a front half) which means it's a heavy frame compared to the newer truck. And mine is also a steel cab and front clip. I'd love to have a full fiberglass body.

Also keep in mind a lighter vehicle is easier on parts to.
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:00 AM
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markdunlap
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Default Rear axle

Back in the day, I went on a weight reduction diet for me and my car. I replaced every non critical strength fastener with aluminum ones. Got pretty friendly with a marine supply place. I lost about 75# with lite weight parts including a home made aluminum radiator support and fender tubs. And I lost 25#, so total was 100#. This was before fiberglass parts were available for my car. The car and I both felt better, I think. Wish I could lose those 25# again now.
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