What are the different classes ie. S/S, S/P, S/G etc?

Old 01-16-2009, 09:21 PM
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nova7415
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Default What are the different classes ie. S/S, S/P, S/G etc?

As a lowly "newbie" I can't seem to find any site that explains the different classes of drag racing. I've noticed on shows like Pass Time, Ken Herring is always asking what class do you normaly race in? Without writing a book could someone break down the classes, maybe starting in order for me please. Some of the letters that I've seen written on cars are: S/G, S/P, S/S, etc. I think S/G stands for super gas, but I don't know what that means. Please help a "newbie" to figure out what class of car I should be looking under to buy my 1st drag car to race this summer. I hope this is the correct forum category for this question. Thank you pro's..........Rob in Toronto.
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Old 01-17-2009, 12:49 AM
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hammertime
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Default Re: What are the different classes ie. S/S, S/P, S/G etc?

Originally Posted by nova7415
As a lowly "newbie" I can't seem to find any site that explains the different classes of drag racing. I've noticed on shows like Pass Time, Ken Herring is always asking what class do you normaly race in? Without writing a book could someone break down the classes, maybe starting in order for me please. Some of the letters that I've seen written on cars are: S/G, S/P, S/S, etc. I think S/G stands for super gas, but I don't know what that means. Please help a "newbie" to figure out what class of car I should be looking under to buy my 1st drag car to race this summer. I hope this is the correct forum category for this question. Thank you pro's..........Rob in Toronto.

Cam help out some here.

These are the main local classes
Street/Sportsman- ET 12.99 and slower cars mainly street cars


Modified/Bracket 2/ No Box- 12.99 And faster without a delay box
some tracks also have footbrake only so no transbrake on the transmission.

Top ET/Box/Super Pro is 11.99 and faster most of these cars have a delay box and a transbrake (not all though)

Then you start racing Divsional and National Events
Stock
Super Stock
Comp Elimnator
Super Street/Hot Rod- 10.90 Index Racing
Super Gas/ Super Rod-9.90 Index Racing
Super Comp/ Quick Rod -8.90 Index
Top Dragster- Fast Dragster bracket racing
Top Sportsman- Fast Door Car bracket racing
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Old 01-17-2009, 06:43 AM
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slowmotion
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Same as above but our middle class ,no box(9.50-13.99) is called Pro.

Super gas cars (9.90 index) are door cars and roadsters only. A roadster is a topless car that the driver sits on the left side like in a stock vehicle.

Super comp (8.90 index) is door cars, roadsters, altereds (see my pic) and dragsters.

Roadsters are left hand sitting and altereds you sit in the center over the drive shaft.

NHRA rules, It costs alot more to run 9.99 or faster that to run 10.00 and slower.
When you break that 9.99 barrier you have to get a NHRA license, physical, get your chassis certified every 3 years, and the safety equipment can be more expensive.
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Old 01-19-2009, 03:47 PM
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Thank you for the quick break down. I especially found the info about the 9.99 vs 10.00 and up very helpful. I had no idea about getting physicals, certified, etc. That right there saved me a lot of money as I was looking to buy an under 10 second car.......not any more!
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Old 01-19-2009, 05:35 PM
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TheYellaBrick
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It's a whole bunch easier and less expensive to DE TUNE than UP TUNE. Buy that under 10 car and you'll not only have a SAFER car to begin with, but you'll be able to go faster without much added expense if you so desire.
IMHO ops: :shock: :!: :roll: :roll:
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Old 01-19-2009, 06:07 PM
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Yep. Even if your going to run slower than 10.00 it wise to by a certified chassis if you can. If your goning to run 12-13 sec it's not a big deal but if you're going to be in the 10's it is a safety factor. My dad's car ('80 Monza) used to run 9.50's. It now runs 10.70's, different engine long story. We keep the cert up on it just in case. If you buy a car that is not certified, the cage could be thin walled as exhaust pipe and you wouldn't know by looking. DO NOT fall for "It passed tech at our track" That could be a lie and different tracks tech to different standards. They all have the same rules but enforce them differently.

Our track will pick a car apart sometimes. We have been to tracks that never even looked at our cars.
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Old 01-19-2009, 07:30 PM
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Man there is so much truth in some of these posts, it's not funny. The friend that i built the 468" pump gas motor for the 66 Biscyne, sold his 9.20's 68 Camero, and bought this Biscyne out of Tx. it's certified to 8.50 in both NHRA and IHRA. He just decided he had had enough of the long lines, the neccesary tow vehicle, and the lics. upgrade ever 2 yrs.. The Biscyne now runs a perfect S/ST 10.90 on pump gas, and street slicks, he only wears a -5 jacket, and rarely has to remove the hood in a night of racing, he enjoys racing now more than ever.


Zip.
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Old 01-23-2009, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by zipper06
Man there is so much truth in some of these posts, it's not funny. The friend that i built the 468" pump gas motor for the 66 Biscyne, sold his 9.20's 68 Camero, and bought this Biscyne out of Tx. it's certified to 8.50 in both NHRA and IHRA. He just decided he had had enough of the long lines, the neccesary tow vehicle, and the lics. upgrade ever 2 yrs.. The Biscyne now runs a perfect S/ST 10.90 on pump gas, and street slicks, he only wears a -5 jacket, and rarely has to remove the hood in a night of racing, he enjoys racing now more than ever.


Zip.
I'm also planning to go in the slow direction. I'm still working on my Chevy II. I have aquired a 1979 Firebird, that my partner and I are going to build into an IHRA crate motor stocker. The cage in my Nova was built in the early 80's, who knows if it meets the thickness standards of today?
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