chevelle rear

Old 08-29-2007, 02:03 PM
  #1  
JustinLadner
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Default chevelle rear

hey yall i got a 64 chevelle it is factory triangulated four link,,,,,i will be using the car mostly for the street and some strip it will have a mild bbc and for now a turbo 350 ,,,, would yall say go for the adjustable control arms or just get the non adjustable control arms???


thanks
justin
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:19 PM
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mytmouz
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I'd go the extra $$ and get the adjustables. If you don't need 'em now, you might in the future,. Thais way, you only spend the bucks once.
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Old 10-03-2007, 07:45 PM
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elkymann
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Default Factory 4 link

This is where YOU need to decide how serious you will get with your ride. If you want it to hook on the strip and the street, what you do now, will return to you later on, so in my opinion, running my 72 Elky that now weighs over 3700 with me and weight added, and I run 9.90's with a stock chassis, I would install the adjustable arms on both upper and lower control arms, but make sure you make the lower arms the exact same length as the stock arms are now, and adj. your pinion angle in the negative range to 2-3 degrees, more if your racing and have good rear suspension parts. Also, what will help launch your car is the Lakewood, no-hop bars, now here is where it gets tricky, if you want it right, this is what you have to do, make some plates, from plate steel about 1/4 inch thick, fit them up and into your existing front lower control arm pockets you have now, drill your holes to hang the plates within the stock pocket, then adj. your lower control arms up or down so that they are level with mother earth, mark your plates and drill two more holes, then have a good welding friend weld the plates in, this will give you the best ladder bar setup for the cheapest amount of money, and yes, it takes time and a few $$$ but it works, also, you must do this with your chassis on the ground, level and with as much weight in it as you would have if YOU were driving it, (THIS) makes all the difference. I know it sounds like a lot, but if you want it to hook, this is what is needed for the cost. Also, you may want to buy a set of air bags for the rear coils from Jegs, about $45. and just add air, they will keep the body twist down on the pass side rear of the body from dropping down, and remember Newtons Law, for every action, there is an equal & opposite reaction, if the body goes up, the axle is ramming down which is ultimately what we all want in racing. Run about 15-25 lbs of air in the right rear bag and watch your front end come up even like a 4 link or ladder bar car does, for less than half the price, and you can keep the wheels and tires you have now.
I have faught with mine for 2 years now and it picks the front end up a foot, and damn near level every time, and I use the tires and suspension like they should be used to make the car hook. My 2 cents worth and if you want more info and pics, send me your e-mail address and I can send pics of my Elky to you, I'm tellin ya, this stuff works very well, but it has taken many laps down the track fo rm to figure out what MY Elky wants, and now I have it. I run a 505 bbc with a glide, and 4:88 gears and now a 30 inch tall tire, was a 29 as of yesterday, but if you need some help send me a mail at [email protected] and I will walk you thru it. I will give you some more pointers also. Good luck and let us know what happens on which way you go.

John
"The Elkyman"
72 Elky
goin 9's
NMCA Series
O/C 9900
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Old 10-04-2007, 05:41 AM
  #4  
BillyShope
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Default Re: Factory 4 link

Originally Posted by elkymann
...and remember Newtons Law, for every action, there is an equal & opposite reaction, if the body goes up, the axle is ramming down....
And, as the body decelerates into its upper position, it unloads the axle.

Six of one and a half dozen of the other. It all balances out.
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Old 10-14-2007, 05:35 PM
  #5  
blaserman
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Default chevelle

Elkymann

I snt you an Email with some Questions
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