NEED INPUT ON LEAKING FRONT OIL SEAL 572 OHIO CRANK ENG

Old 05-12-2007, 02:06 PM
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badbug3
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Default NEED INPUT ON LEAKING FRONT OIL SEAL 572 OHIO CRANK ENG

Nephew had ohio crankshafts build him a 572 bbc for a lake boat . It has 9.7 compression with dart alun 345 heads and roller cam. Initially the motor was dynoed by ohio at 720 hp on pump gas. When we got the motor it was leaking at the front of engine . We pulled engine back out of boat and intalled new front seal(in a cheap chrome timing cover) that came with engine and new pan gasket. Only after a few hours it is leaking again at around 4500-5000 rpms and slinging it out again. What in the hell do you think the problem is. I have built several engines over the years and never seen this problem. Steel pan. When we fixed it the first time, we still didnt know for sure where the oil was coming from. Now it has the same problem. What to do???????
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Old 05-12-2007, 02:30 PM
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bjuice
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did you take the oil pan all the way off to replace seal?..also what kind of oil pan gasket did you use?...which ever gasket you used has a front rubber seal. they are very easy to slide off the back side of the pan or get cocked side ways etc....

here is how i seal my pans up..

i get the 1 piece gasket (fel-pro) $30.00..It has the steel inserts where the bolts come thru so that you cannot over tighten and squeeze out the gasket..i then take the part where the front seal meets the side rail gaskets and i cut the front seal part off with a razor blade.....


then i take the side rail gaskets and glue them in place on block or you can use some gasket maker..whatever will hold it...then i i take the front seal and glue it to the bootm side of the timing cover using the YELLOW GORILLA SNOT...I then go back over the bottom side of the gaskets with the ULTRA GREY GASKET SEALER..make sure to get it heavy in the corners where the rail meets the front and rear seal..place the pan up to the motor and bolt together..i never have had any problems doing it this way...if you do this as i say you will stop your leaking..

I have had problems with leaks just putting it on as the book says to..




ps..the Gorilla snot..is really 3m super weatherstrip adhesive (yellow)part# 08001

you can buy it at any advance auto etc...many engine builders use this stuff the glue on valve cover haskets etc...

brian
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Old 05-12-2007, 02:43 PM
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badbug3
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Default i have done this plentyu of times with no trouble!!!

I BElieve there is some other problem other than the pan leaking, i think it is the front seal. Why it is leaking , i have no idea. This engine was built by ohio crankshafts and dynoed then sent to us. I noticed oil dripps on the bottom of the harmonic balancer when we received it, but paid it no attention. Now, the engine building factory built it and it leaked, i took it apart,(complete pan removal on engine stand) and delicately looked it over and installed new pan and timing cover seal, and it started leaking again. This is an unusual problem and have never had this problem before. One professional engine builder did it and it leaked, and i did it and it leaked, and i really paid it close attention. Do you think the front timing cover could be off center and ruining the seal? Although the seal looks really good when we took it off.
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Old 05-12-2007, 03:01 PM
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mytmouz
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I've never had much luck with those cheap chrome timing covers. A new oem is pretty cheap.
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Old 05-12-2007, 03:31 PM
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obsessedtruck
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Those stupid chrome covers and oil pans are almost impossible to seal... Pound in the crank seal and it slips right out. I would get your self a O.E. cover and possibly oil pan. Unless you want it to look good there then i would get one of those Cloyes hex-adust timing cover. made out of alum. and i never had a leak problem.

BJuice said that YELLOW SNOT.. that stuffs works awesome. The only gripe is cleaning the old gasket off. Use it all the time at the shop. Pan gaskets in the vehicle put some on hold the gasket in place for 30 secs. and its on for life.
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Old 05-12-2007, 04:14 PM
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mcracecars
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take that chrome timing cover off, clean it real good, check for any burs were it seals, straighten out any bad spots, shine it up nice, then take it over to a nice solid bench, and with a big hammer smash the snot out of it so you will never be tempted to use it again, then take it outside, and throw that thing as far away from you as you can... :shock:
same goes for chrome oil pans....and chrome transmission pans, chrome rear end covers... always leak, everyone ive ever seen anyways....

Get a oem cover or a nice aluminum cover...
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Old 05-12-2007, 05:17 PM
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fastbowtie
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Ed
Thats the Best advise for the problem .Unless the Chrome is removed or roughed up it will Leak.
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Old 05-12-2007, 05:21 PM
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buffjhsn1
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chrome don't get ya home

bjuice, i call that yellow snot, yellow death...you don't want to get it on you or else it seems to never come off. (it's really 3m weather strip adhesive)
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:42 PM
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Racefab57
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WHAT ABOUT A PROBLEM WITH LINE HONING ,OR BORING MAINS , I WAS PUTTING MY JESEL BELT DRIVE ON AND THEY TALK ABOUT IF IT WAS ALIGN BORED OR HONED ,YOU ARE SUPPOSE TO OPEN UP THE DOLE HOLES ALITTLE AND THEN PUT ON LOWER PULLEY TO CENTER IT IN TIMING SEAL BEFORE TIGHTENING THE COVER UP! THIS ENGINE ( NOT A MOTOR ) MAY NOT HAVE A BELT DRIVE ON IT , BUT WHAT IF ITS SOMETHING LIKE THAT? ALSO WHAT IF THERES PRESSURE IN CRANKCASE??? JUST AN IDEA OR 2.DAVID.
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Old 05-12-2007, 11:40 PM
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davis419b
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I have seen my engine builder take the dowel pins completely out so that he can make sure the seal is centered on the crank. IT WORKS!!!!
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