heavy weight flexplates

Old 05-03-2007, 07:37 AM
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Default heavy weight flexplates

does anyone out there have thoughts or opinions on the jw(the wheel) or csr weighted flexplates. or is it just adding another 3 lbs to the car.
thanks for your time. 8) 8)
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Old 05-04-2007, 03:32 AM
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Flexplates and heavy weight just do not go hand in hand. However you can get an aluminum flexplate from Reactor Products that offers a heavier Inerta Ring for it. Weight on the outer perimeter with light plate makes far more sense if you need the additional weight.

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Old 05-04-2007, 05:57 AM
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Default flexplates

I guess alittle more info is in order, the sales pitch is that the heavy flex plate. from jw transmissions(the wheel), csr performance,reactor products. produce better 60"times, less rpm drop inbetween shifts. I'm just wondering if anyone out there has tryed these products and what their thoughts might be on them.
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Old 05-04-2007, 06:13 AM
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Back in the 60s & early 70s alot of gassers & others with small cubic inch engines used Heavy Flywheels to keep the rpms up .A little 311ci injected motor I had had A 80lb Flywheel & A clutch Turbo 400 Just spin it up & it would stay there.
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Old 05-04-2007, 06:15 AM
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Here is the website


I have had alot of certified flex plates and this one is the best by far

Most all your other flex plates are hardened ring gears that break and chip the teeth off,

This flywheel is excellent quality(Reactor)

Well you can make your own decision,I'm not a saleman,but you can make your own decision.

I do have one of these Reactors,they are a really nice piece
Give Olan Teeves a call
There Is 1 Thing Better Than Cubic Inches,,,More Of Them
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Old 05-04-2007, 06:39 AM
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Some back ground on heavy flywheels....
way back in the early days, 70s or even 60s, every one was running 4 speed manual trannys.
There used to be these classes such as modified production where the car was heavy, motor small, we are talking here some where around 270 cubes or less (cant remember for sure) small blocks. Destroked chevy 283 and such.
These cars would lanch hard, well in their day, 10000+ rpm. Well if you didnt break something from the motor on back, away you would go. ... to a blistering 10 sec or even high 9 second run.
The idea of the heavy flywheel or heavier than stock was to keep the rpms up when they dump the clutc, heavier flywheel at 10000 rpm will not cause the motor to bog down as much as a liter flywheel.
Road race guys were using the aluminm flywheels with steel inserts. They dont need to dump the clutch off the line like drag cars, but the idea was less flywheel wieght lets the motor rev up faster. coming out of corners and between shifts..
These days , depending on what you are running in drag racing, the cars are somewhat lighter, and the motors bigger than the old modified prodution days,,,(they were always a thrill to watch) The motors these days have more than enough tork, and with modern converters, I would go with the theory to keep it light to let the motor come up on the converter faster and recover between shifts.
I dont think you will gain anything by going to a heavier flywheel, probably lose some et, just my opinion.
It seems someone is always coming out with a new way to get some money from you.
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Old 05-04-2007, 03:56 PM
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Default heavy flexplate

thanks for the info, I will keep my present combo intact.
and the 180 bucks in my pocket.
thank's again.
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Old 05-04-2007, 08:27 PM
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when i ran a de-stroked 327 to 302 i ran a heavy flywheel. i remember something about an article in i believe Car Craft about the prob of "flywheeling" the tires if the wt. was too much. any truth to this?
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