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Thread: starting problem with crank trigger

  1. #1
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
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    starting problem with crank trigger

    Been running MSD crank trigger system with a 7AL-2 box for several years. Was using a 8984 msd starter saver to retard the timing at start up. Car always started fine. Car quit one night at a big money race and would not start. Took it home and traced it down to the starter saver. Went to a fancy digital start/high speed retard system from msd. Looked good on the dash but engine always kicked back when starting. Tried different retard settings but nothing worked. Sent it back and got a 8982 start/retard box and the same problem. 0,15.or 25 retard doesn't change anything. Problem with the BOX??? Any suggestions??

  2. #2
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    Check the rotor phasing,if it's off the added retard might be causing it to fire the next cyl in the firing order. Because of less cly pressure it's easer for the spark to go there.Bill.

  3. #3
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    Starting problem

    When using the Starter Saver, there is 2 choices of retard, 10 or 20 degrees. If you were using 10 degrees on it and you have not tried 10 degrees on the new boxes, maybe over 10 degrees retard is too much?

    On a 12.5 compression 496 BBC, 10 degrees works most of the time. 20 degrees can cause kick back when hot.

  4. #4
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Both post above touch on what I'd want to know also

    have you phased the rotor and how much timing are you trying to pull out at start up ?
    David Lanning
    IHRA NHRA 387B

    Fleenor Racing Transmission
    419-280-1406
    Lanning Electric
    Complete Drag Car Wiring
    APD Race Engines
    www.apdracing.com

  5. #5
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Please keep this thread going, i don't run a crank trigger or a starter retard, but we do run a crank trigger on the 66 Biscyne pump gas motor. I just get the engine spinning after the fuel is up then flip the ignation on while running alcohol. I'm learning something here and i'm old but never too old to learn.

    Zip.

  6. #6
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
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    Coming from an era when a dual point and a 50,000 volt coil was the cats meow I too am getting older. Sometimes I think all this new fangled stuff is a waste of time. Use a drilled cap to set the rotor phasing. Was down playing with it today and looking at the directions for the retard and realized it stayed in the retard mode until 1300 rpm. The starter saver I was using didn't do that. Was adjusting the rotor at idle. Figured it was worth a shot so I moved the dist a few degrees and it started fine. Not 100% sure it will fix the problem but it seems to have at this point. Will be doing some rotor phase testing before the season starts.

  7. #7
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    What size engine is this and how much compression ?
    David Lanning
    IHRA NHRA 387B

    Fleenor Racing Transmission
    419-280-1406
    Lanning Electric
    Complete Drag Car Wiring
    APD Race Engines
    www.apdracing.com

  8. #8
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Never had any luck with MSD and any product that was to retard the timing for starting. Take it out and don't let it cost you money in a final round.
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  9. #9
    Junior Member APPRENTICE
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    Engine is a 557 bbc with about 11=1 compression running pump gas. Did have one starter saver go bad and cost me a race. Wiring is set up so I can bypass it if it does it again. Am thinking about trashing the crank trigger and going to a regular dist.

  10. #10
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    starting

    If you are going back to a distributor to get back to some timing advance curve and have less timing at idle, keep this in mind. If you have a Dominator carb, it may need all the advace to run well at idle. Not much booster signal there and a big plenum intake typically.

  11. Racing Junk


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