496 Heads
#11
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 525
Originally Posted by cboggs
Originally Posted by zipper06
Curtis you crack me up LMAO,
Zip.
Zip.
can you tell, as a cylinder head guy, .. I'm getting really tired of talking
about these junk heads, . .
buy based on price, .. you get what you pay for, .. ..
it's like the laws of physics, .. it can't be changed, .. good stuff costs money, ..
junk it cheap, .. what part of this is hard to understand?
Ok Zip, .. now get up off the floor and stop laughing. :lol:
Curtis
#12
Senior Member
SENIOR BUILDER
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Posts: 101
Wes,
that's a nice idea, .. but then we would have a sticky that nobody
bothered to read either. Ok , I'm joking, .. I'll stop now.
Just to be clear, .. yes I'm serious that it's getting old talking about
these junk heads, .. but my last posts where very tongue in cheek, ..
I was trying to be a little funny, .. find some humor in the situation.
I offer my experience and advice based on close to 30 years of building
heads, engineering degrees and racing experience, .. and if it helps some
person that's great. Cause all I really want to do is help.
If they don't want to use my advice, that's OK too, .. there's more
then one way to skin a cat, .. I'm not always the one with the proper knife.
A list like you talk about would be miles long, .. cause every combination has
it's best cylinder head, .. simple fact is outside of Dart, Brodix, Trick Flow,
Edelbrock ( for some things ) All Pro and AFR, .. . there's not many others I use.
Not counting the factory stuff like SB2.2, DRCE, Yates etc of course.
But the truth is, .. you use what it takes to properly do the job.
I just can't see risking $1,000's worth of engine, pistons, cam etc
by putting a crappy head on an engine just to save a little money.
That's really poor economics, .. to put cheap heads on an engine and
risk the costs of all the other parts to save a few bucks.
spend the money up front and buy the right parts that will give good
service for years, .. it's long term economics, .. it will save money in
the long run. Cheap parts cost more money in the long run because
of a shortened service life, .. and if they break, .
curtis
that's a nice idea, .. but then we would have a sticky that nobody
bothered to read either. Ok , I'm joking, .. I'll stop now.
Just to be clear, .. yes I'm serious that it's getting old talking about
these junk heads, .. but my last posts where very tongue in cheek, ..
I was trying to be a little funny, .. find some humor in the situation.
I offer my experience and advice based on close to 30 years of building
heads, engineering degrees and racing experience, .. and if it helps some
person that's great. Cause all I really want to do is help.
If they don't want to use my advice, that's OK too, .. there's more
then one way to skin a cat, .. I'm not always the one with the proper knife.
A list like you talk about would be miles long, .. cause every combination has
it's best cylinder head, .. simple fact is outside of Dart, Brodix, Trick Flow,
Edelbrock ( for some things ) All Pro and AFR, .. . there's not many others I use.
Not counting the factory stuff like SB2.2, DRCE, Yates etc of course.
But the truth is, .. you use what it takes to properly do the job.
I just can't see risking $1,000's worth of engine, pistons, cam etc
by putting a crappy head on an engine just to save a little money.
That's really poor economics, .. to put cheap heads on an engine and
risk the costs of all the other parts to save a few bucks.
spend the money up front and buy the right parts that will give good
service for years, .. it's long term economics, .. it will save money in
the long run. Cheap parts cost more money in the long run because
of a shortened service life, .. and if they break, .
curtis
#14
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: La.
Posts: 2,890
Originally Posted by cboggs
Originally Posted by zipper06
Hey Curtis, i'm done :lol:
You have any solid s/blk heads 23* for my blown s/blk, if not what would you recommend 383" 1471 littlefied stripped 30 PSI, with buzzard catcher.
2 1/4" zoomies.
Thanks in advance,
Zip.
You have any solid s/blk heads 23* for my blown s/blk, if not what would you recommend 383" 1471 littlefied stripped 30 PSI, with buzzard catcher.
2 1/4" zoomies.
Thanks in advance,
Zip.
I tend to use Dart castings for blown stuff, .. for a small block they make
a 220 casting in their race series with spread exhaust ports.
Gotta use the spread exhaust and run water between the the center
two ports, ..
I'd have to ask if they make a solid version of it, .
Curtis
Zip.
#15
Member
JUNIOR BUILDER
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Bedford, Ohio
Posts: 86
Are those the china heads distributed by the aussies or are they the new zeland heads?
The aussie heads have real fit problems with most intake manifolds. Read a couple articles on them, I'll try and find em.
The aussie heads have real fit problems with most intake manifolds. Read a couple articles on them, I'll try and find em.