weld it or replace it?
#5
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 504
JW makes a ultra bell that requires the removal of the damaged area on your trans shown in the photo. The new bell housing bolts directly over the oil pump and requires longer fasteners and stato seals on the bolts and you would be set. The housing is SFI approved and does not require any other additional shielding for the flex plate. They sell new for about 150 bucks or so and have all possible bolt patterns available. This is how a ford could use a GM 400 or..... Just thought I would point out the simple fix potential.
You know how you broke it right? If so you might have a clue what you may have damaged in the case internally. Pump bushing etc. Be sure you address what caused that failure prior to replacing with a new piece reguardless which way you go. And for the record, lots of Power does not do that, A twisting chassis or ridgid engine and trans mount in a flexing chassis could be in play.
sorry I took so long to type it appears every one already knows this. did not mean to be redundant.
You know how you broke it right? If so you might have a clue what you may have damaged in the case internally. Pump bushing etc. Be sure you address what caused that failure prior to replacing with a new piece reguardless which way you go. And for the record, lots of Power does not do that, A twisting chassis or ridgid engine and trans mount in a flexing chassis could be in play.
sorry I took so long to type it appears every one already knows this. did not mean to be redundant.
#7
Member
CRAFTSMAN
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 51
jw bell or case for sure. same as above with checking for a chassis twist problem. also be checking that driveshaft. remember even if it looks straight it could be twisting out of round under power if its too thin wall. real common problem with aluminum driveshafts. Had a guy with a 63 vette tube chassis mcamis car with aluminum mark williams driveshaft, 632 bbc big chief heads, twin toilets. he broke two cases before he told us about his aluminum driveshaft. installed a chrome moly driveshaft and never had a problem again.
#9
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lenoir City Tennessee
Posts: 864
im thinking it started from the old drive shaft being to long. maybe put a stress crack in it. then when i put the shorter shaft in it and took it for a spin it done that? thats the only thing i can think of off the top of my head.
#10
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 504
Originally Posted by lookingaround
im thinking it started from the old drive shaft being to long. maybe put a stress crack in it. then when i put the shorter shaft in it and took it for a spin it done that? thats the only thing i can think of off the top of my head.
Food for thought