ssmonte70

the engine builder is telling me to put more time on the motor go beat the crap out to seat the rings if that does not work bring the motor back and he will figure out what the problem is,

Tod74

That's what I'd do.

cepx111

Just a comparrison:

We stuck a fairly new motor in the boy's mustang and it was smoking and using a bit of oil.

The motor was supposedly fresh when we bought it (less than 500 miles), we did what your engine builder recomended.

The only alternative we had was to yank it and do a rebuild or run the piss out of it, we choose the ladder and it has all but quit smoking and using oil.
Sometimes moly rings take a bit to seat up anyway, this process can be aggravated by an incorrect hone job from the machine shop, a moly ring likes a smoother final hone where as a cast ring likes a rougher one." I think" not real sure but a good machine shop should know the difference, ask them to be sure, anyway mismatch the 2 and you have a recipe for a oil burner.

Sometimes they will go ahead and seal up, sometimes they won't.

I've also heard that pouring alittle tranny fluid down the carb while runnig will help the rings seat up too, I dont know about that one either, maybe just snake oil.


JMO, Cp

OneBadGMC

If the motor has moly rings, more than likely they seated while the valves were being set.

You didn't do anything silly like put synthetic oil in the new motor? Synthetic oil will keep rings from seating.

MEMRACING62

have you removed a couple of valve springs and check the seals for damage

ssmonte70

using 20-50 oil changed to 50, still the same, check the valve seals and they are ok, going to take the car out this weekend and put some miles, see what happens, and wj can you tell me which way to set the idle mixture screws, not sure which way to go thanks for all the help

BEAST477

What series block: MarkIV,Gen5,Gen6? and what heads? Some don't mix well without the right head gaskets. Just a thought.

Scooterz

Hemi has a point... bad valve guides can cause copious amounts of blue smoke... had that problem once.

On the carb: Turn them all the way in until it is seated, then turn them back out, one at a time in 180 degree increments, & do 3 180's.. or 1 & half turns out on all for starters. Then lean/rich from there one corner, one metering block at a time. I like to use a vacuum gauge when doing this for better accuracy. Take it one adjustment at a time & note the result. I believe in (clockwise) is lean, out is rich (someone correct me if I have this backwards).

Next: what oil pressure do you have at opt temp? opt Idle?/ or WOT?

Is there any kind of PCV system on this motor? If so, how is it set up?

Do you have BLUE smoke @ idle or when under load/RPM? Both?

I think 175PSI sounds normal to me... @ about 10.5CR... mine is about 165 to 168 @ 10.2....

ssmonte70

oil psi 60, no pcv system on the car, blue smoke @idle under a load less it clears up not as bad, thanks

OneBadGMC

Pull a plug out and eyeball it.

If it's just black and wet it's fat.

If it's black, wet, and looks like it has burnt oil gummed all over it, it's burning a LOT of oil. Burnt oil will look like a burnt pork steak.