4" stroke 350
#1
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4" stroke 350
Does anyone have any experience with a 4" stroke 350? 400 blocks getting scarce nowadays, I've been entertaining filling a 350 and trying one, I've seen a few ads for them lately. I'm sure the block will need considerable clearancing, what about cam clearance? Some of you guys with some good experience should chime in here. I know the Dart block would handle no problem but i'm trying to stay with what i have so lets try to focus on the factory block this time.
#2
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Crank to cam centerline is the same as a 400 block.with the 4.00 stroke you should at least install splayed main caps unless you have 2482 nodular iron main caps on the block already,the 3412 gray iron caps will fail with a stroke that long.Bill
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Thanks
Is there enough material in the block when using the aftermarket mains it's not too weak? I'm thinking about a .030 with a 4" stroke for a 408(I believe) currently running a 383 with 6" rod, 13.5 comp, lunati 618 roller and 215 RHS heads and really like the combination. Runs 6.50's in the 1/8 in 2600lb car, I feel like a few more cubes would help and i have a spare 350 block in the garage just waiting for a build, and that would be worth about 20ci and be an interesting combo to put together. I dont really hear too much about them and was worried there might be a reason. Thanks for the input,
#4
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Re: Thanks
Originally Posted by novaman408
Is there enough material in the block when using the aftermarket mains it's not too weak? I'm thinking about a .030 with a 4" stroke for a 408(I believe) currently running a 383 with 6" rod, 13.5 comp, lunati 618 roller and 215 RHS heads and really like the combination. Runs 6.50's in the 1/8 in 2600lb car, I feel like a few more cubes would help and i have a spare 350 block in the garage just waiting for a build, and that would be worth about 20ci and be an interesting combo to put together. I dont really hear too much about them and was worried there might be a reason. Thanks for the input,
#5
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It could very well be too much cam, I'm putting it on alky (toilet) this year, I've already got it changed over and ready to see how it reacts to the different fuel system. I've actually been pretty pleased with it so far, I've just been thinking about a different short block. On a side note, before the RHS heads I was running Victor Jr's and it was running 6.80 best case, when i changed to the RHS it literally dropped .25 which I thought was pretty impressive. The only difference in the heads was the cc's, Victors=70 RHS=64cc, i'm not sure how much this affected the comp ratio but it sure did make a difference in performance. Both heads were straight out of the box and the only change was the heads themselves. I never really considered a cam change, but it might be what is holding back the 60' numbers (usually 1.41-1.42) and a smaller cam might put a little more bottom end into it. I guess the reason I ran it was I got it dirt cheap.
#6
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Re: Thanks
Originally Posted by ImBack
Originally Posted by novaman408
Is there enough material in the block when using the aftermarket mains it's not too weak? I'm thinking about a .030 with a 4" stroke for a 408(I believe) currently running a 383 with 6" rod, 13.5 comp, lunati 618 roller and 215 RHS heads and really like the combination. Runs 6.50's in the 1/8 in 2600lb car, I feel like a few more cubes would help and i have a spare 350 block in the garage just waiting for a build, and that would be worth about 20ci and be an interesting combo to put together. I dont really hear too much about them and was worried there might be a reason. Thanks for the input,
#8
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I advise strongly against the 4 inch stroke in a stock cam ht 350 block.
If you are an experienced stroker engine builder and fully understand what to do and where and why to end up with the correct clearances and not grind into water or oil passages, you will have a lengthy time consuming chore on your hands.
If you aren't you are in for a learning experience which can eat up several days time and that is if you don't ruin the block while cutting.
Ed
If you are an experienced stroker engine builder and fully understand what to do and where and why to end up with the correct clearances and not grind into water or oil passages, you will have a lengthy time consuming chore on your hands.
If you aren't you are in for a learning experience which can eat up several days time and that is if you don't ruin the block while cutting.
Ed
#9
Did this with a stock 010 block and a Eagle crank, 6 inch I beam rods and a small base circle cam. Block filled the lower part of the water jackets and it went pretty well. Only had to clearance some on the pan rails. This was swap meet stuff a friend of mine and I experimented with. The guy we got the stuff from said it was a common circle track 'equalizer' combo.
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I was thinking of enough fill to get me out of any water jacket issues when i start clearancing and figured that i would have to take out some from the pan rail. Is the small base circle cam a necessity? How did it perfom in comparison to some other combos"