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Welcome to RacingJunk's annual roundup of the top five most sought-after and informative 'How-To' articles in the world of motorsports and automotive enthusiasts. In the ever-evolving landscape of racing and automotive customization, knowledge is power, and these articles encapsulate the essence of practical guidance, offering enthusiasts and professionals alike invaluable insights into refining their craft. As we delve into the list of the most influential, comprehensive, and trendsetting instructional pieces, join us in celebrating the passion and expertise shared by our community. From engine tuning to chassis setups, these articles have been selected for their exceptional guidance, innovation, and impact, shaping the automotive landscape in 2023 and beyond.
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Let me tell you, there's nothing worse than installing a beautiful engine you've just spent days or weeks lovingly rebuilding and reinstalling in your hot rod or strip burner and going to fire it up, only to find out that it either runs terribly or doesn't run at all. What's even worse is spending more time and effort determining that the why of it running terribly or not running at all is because you torque some bolts incorrectly, or didn't torque them at all. Another horrible experience is getting it all back together and installed, only to have it fall apart on the street or track for the same reason - incorrectly torqued bolts or bolts that weren't torqued at all.
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It’s not rocket science. Sure, setting up ring and pinion gears can seem challenging, but it really is simple enough that anyone can do it—If they’re willing to pay attention to proper procedures. When setting up the positioning of a ring and pinion in any rear end, there are only two settings that need to be done/measured correctly to ensure proper gear setup and long gear life. These settings are:
* Pinion depth (how close the pinion is to the ring gear)
* Backlash (how close the ring gear is to the pinion).
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When it comes to tuning a Holley carburetor the power valve has always seemed a mystery to many. But, once you know how power-valves work, it’s easy to select, troubleshoot, and install the right one for your application.
The power is a vacuum-operated fuel valve that is designed to enrich the fuel flow to the engine under varied vacuum conditions. It is located in the metering block, and opens at a set vacuum that is determined by the spring it contains. Depending on the spring in the power valve, this can occur at varying engine rpm and directs extra fuel into the carburetor’s main power circuit. The valve itself is a small rubber diaphragm with a small coil spring. When opened, it allows fuel to flow through the calibrated opening in the metering block (power valve channel restrictor). This restrictor determines the amount of additional fuel delivered to the engine.
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I’ve been a Holley fan since I could say the word “carburetor” correctly, so it’s no surprise when I say that one of my favorite manufacturers of electronic fuel injection systems is Holley. If you’ve been around long enough to read my article comparing fuel injection and carburetion, you know that for true hot rod looks and sound, I still prefer a high CFM carburetor over fuel injection.
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If you’re pulling your first classic out of a junk-covered barn or chopping it out of the undergrowth, chances are you aren’t going to be able to just pop the key in the ignition and drive off. Don’t be discouraged, though; take a look under the hood. If all the fundamental components are in place, it’s not as hard as you might think to get an old Detroit hunk of iron to sputter back to life.
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