pro/sportman brake red light green light
 

Has anyone went from a sportsman brake to a pro or pro/sport
What kind of difference did you see in reaction times?
I’m running in no box bottom bulb class with a hipster pro brake in a glide running low 10’s
When I see the first yellow I put it against the brake/two step then drop my eyes to the bottom yellow so that I don’t anticipate
I cannot leave at first sight of bottom or I will be red
Thinking about trying a sportsman brake to see if it helps
Lights so far this year
.0147
.0209
.050
.0401
.0025
.0213
.0042
-.0013
-.0345
.0032
-.0126
.0115
.0107

Re: pro/sportman brake red light green light
 

A normal brake should slow down the leave some but will not tighten up the reactions, maybe something else is going on, plunger hanging up a bit bad solenoid ?

If you have to sit on the bottom bulb to avoid going red, that's why your lights are erratic. That's a really tough thing to do consistently. A sportsman brake will help slow them down some but an additional hole is usually drilled in the rear of the case for a pro brake. I'm not sure if you'll have to plug it......other things you can try if you haven't already:
stage REALLY shallow
lower launch rpm
taller front tire
Does your car yank the front up out of the beams? If so, then maybe higher slick pressure or some suspension adjustments would help.......

What added hole in the back of the case is drilled for a pro brake ?

Dave,I think he's talking about a double dump pro brake, they drill an extra hole to dump pressure off the reverse clutches. Not sure all pro brakes are double dump.

I hadnt used or seen one like that, thanks for the answer because it was a new one to me.

Typically a normal pro brake isnt that way, I know the hipster isnt, I also know the hipster is a aggressive brake.

You might try one of the slow releasing transbrake switches from Biondo.
That might help you.

A pro brake is faster than a standard brake. Like mentioned, if you are already having red issues you need to adjust front tire psi, size or look at an adjustable button.

I thought all pro brakes were that way. I've installed TCI, ATI, and others and they were all double dump. I guess I just haven't dealt with any that weren't...........learned somethin' new!

Man that a understatement but think you feel my pain :wink:

I have the aluminum hipster brake and it is a double dump and the case is drilled in the rear
I have spare unmodified cases so that’s not a big deal

I have lowered the two step to 3100 any lower and it a inconsistent dog on the line

I have the tallest that will fit m/t sportsmen radials on front now not a lot of sidewall give in them
Had a set of e/t drag front before very adjustable sidewall still not enough

Can you slow the hit down by changing the 4 link ?

That’s one of the options I’m looking at but I kind of feel they may be an inconsistency waiting to happen
Hence the? About reaction difference going to a sportsman brake I feel and I may be wrong it's the more consistent answer to my problem

Man I wish I had a 4 link David but a ladder bar car :wink:

On a good note that fast reaction should work well on the arm drop at pinks all out in two weeks :lol:

I've seen some really long throw buttons that some comp eliminator cars use. They look kinda goofy, but they work......

Hay Joe You could talk to the guy who built your trans and see if it can be fixed.

I have the same problem in my FED with a pro brake. I was told that pro brakes react around .4 and bracket brakes around .5 which would be perfect for me since I am about -.105 at the first sight of third yellow.

This may sound stupid, but heard of Alan Johnson doing it to get around the rev limiters in top fuel when they came out. He ran an extensive amount of wire to lengthen out the time it took to travel from the rev limiter to the ignition. I have thought of taking a 25' coil of wire and splicing it between the button and the trans brake/two step. Any electrical guys thing that would work. Could you use lengths of wire to tune your reactions times. I don't believe it is against the rules. :roll:

Sure that'll work, but electricty travels at the speed of light, so 18600 ft of wire should equal a tenth of a second. there is no rule against haveing that much wire in your car, but where will you set :P 25 ft, will make no difference.

There is no such thing as a stupid question. Just stupid people that ask questions. lol :D

Wasn't picking on you, that was not my intent, please believe me, but if Alan johnson said he was doing it with wire length, he was lying to someone. Probably the NHRA :D I don't think you're stupid, or that it was a stupid question, but doing this with wire is just not feasable.

Never hold back on a question. I know I have picked up some great info on this site that I would have been too chicken to ask about.

Dave

I was just being a smart a**. I know you where not picking.

Oh yeah, I red light first round last night. -.015

Well, I figured it wrong anyway, it's 18600 MILES of wire would equal a tenth of a second. About 98 million feet of wire, give or take a few hundred thousand feet. :)