No fuel psi. carb is a holly 2 brl.

I HAD A 4412 WITH THE WOODEN SLIDE PLATE IT WARPED AND GAVE US A HIGH RPM SKIP ONE TIME AT A RACE TRACK, WE ENDED UP MACHINEING IT DOWN ON THE CEMENT BLOCK WALL AT THE RACE TRACK. IF IT'S THE WOODEN ONE CHECK IT OUT, WE HAD TO RUN THE THIN GASKETS HERE IN FLA. SO THE PLATE HAS TO BE FLAT.

I will look at that tomorrow. Thanks

looking at that bell housing gives me a chill !!

engine misfire
 

I once had my car to run smooth until wot, then would pop and act ugly , MSD dist was corroded inside like it was 50 years old ,cleaned and eliminated problem. also BAD GAS will make one do this Later J.Smith 4621 racing :D

Cracked porcelin on the exterior of the plug will make it arc or ground (dead-miss) to chassis under a high load, I.E. WOT, that's when the ignition is at its weakest and we all know electricity always finds the path of least resistance and it's much easier for it to ground to chassis than ground through the plug.

A cracked insulator can cause a miss fire, it will not arc at the tip or on ground electrode but rather on the inside body of the plug making it have a miss fire.

You might just be a tad on the lean side if at WOT you aquire a mis-fire, you could have some trash inside the main jets, I've actually had this problem before on a 1966 mustang 289 2 barrel I had, it ran like a devil till you got in it ( WOT) then it would miss like crazy, that one little piece of thrash in one jet cost me a couple hundred dollars worth of ignition parts till I figured out it was the carb.
Cp

Is it possible that my mechanical Barry Grant fuel pump is going bad? And if it is, would it be shoving to much fuel into the carb as i have noticed at idle the butterflys (throttle plates) are saturated and I can see fuel running off of them.

The pump going bad won't cause that but a regulator might. Try not to run more than 7psi to the carb.

I would have to go along with the thinking of Beast here. when you load the engine it is easier for a wire, coil, plug wire to jump to ground. These are hard to find sometimes, because your circuits will test ok with no load. Try using a fine water mist and put a load on engine in garage and turn off the lights. A lot of the time you will get a light show to point you in the right spot of trouble. The misting should keep you from burning up the clutch. It helps the jump to ground with less load. It's like a coil breaking down, they run at an idle but load them and watch them fail.

I had this after an engine change once and it was a slightly pinched wire off the distributor. Couldn't see it or test it till the water and light trick. Must have done it taking it out or putting it in.