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-   -   1/2 or 5/8 rear wheel studs (https://www.racingjunk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20321)

Tod74 03-23-2008 10:54 PM


Originally Posted by lively
???--DO YOU HAVE TO DRILL OUT YOUR ALUMINUM RIMS BIGGER OR IS THE LUG NUT SHANK JUST THINNER???

The stud is the same sixze as hole in wheel( 11/16) and you use a washer and nut. The nut is just a flange nut not a typical lug nut with shank

dcarr511 03-24-2008 03:00 AM


Originally Posted by suicidebomb
They can be drilled.

What did you do to drill them ? When I tired it on a pair of Moser Axles I used a Carbide bit and couldnt cut through them, had to send them back in so they could be annealed, drilled and then rehardened.

Return & Shipping and labor was around 100 $

suicidebomb 03-24-2008 03:23 AM

Mine are mosers too, we drilled them on a bridgeport, but I don*t remember using any special drill. But we may have, we did it about 4 years ago in a friend of mines machine shop, if he can remember i*ll find out and post here.

Tod74 03-24-2008 03:46 AM

I thought you had to send em off....that is what I have heard...mine was already done when I got the car.

itsabird 03-24-2008 07:22 AM

i don,t think, that section of the axel is as hard as the shaft, so it would be drillable if thats a fact, but it will have to be taped for screw in studs, i don,t know of any press fit 5/8 studs. it might be less of a pain to send them out.

suicidebomb 03-24-2008 07:33 AM

Guys, I dont remember them being hard to drill at all. I did the drilling after he helped me set up the mill, and we tapped the holes for screw in studs. I*M still trying to get a hold of him, when I do I*ll let you know.

suicidebomb 03-24-2008 06:35 PM

re; wheel studs
 
It took me awhile to run him down, but I finally found him. For that I apologize. HE said that we used a titanium nitride bit. he said it was very sharp, and he said we drowned it in oil. run the bit at 175 RPM. Anyhow, thats how he said we did it. I think we did the whole thing, all 10 holes in less than an hour including setting up the mill. We used the mill to tap the holes also.

olds48 04-03-2008 04:28 PM

I'd be more concerned with the tapping than the drilling....if you get ONE hole started crooked your stud will poke out all crazy and you WON'T be able to get your wheels on...or have another chance to fix it :oops: I believe in doing everything you can yourself,but unless you have the proper machines...leave it to the pros.That's just my $.02

curtisreed 04-03-2008 05:17 PM

Eric,
It's not that hard to get a tap started straight, just get a piece of material as thick as the threads on the tap are long, drill it so the tap just fits through it. Clamp it to the flange in line with the hole, you have your guide that way. Easy and straight. Of course the best way is just use the mill to do it, no problem if you have access to a mill. I just through it up on my HMC and push the button.

Curtis

suicidebomb 04-03-2008 05:51 PM

Just as soon as i get a place for a good used mill, I*m gonna get me one. Mans greatest invention next to the thermos bottle! :D


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