View Full Version : 1/2 or 5/8 rear wheel studs
deepockets
03-23-2008, 06:34 AM
i currently have 1/2 wheel studs on strange 35 spline axles. i really dont want to buy new axles to go to the larger studs if i dont need to. im i ok whit what i have. 1000 hp, glide, 2650 weight on car 15-33 slicks. thanks
suicidebomb
03-23-2008, 07:41 AM
With that kind of horsepower I*d get the biggest stud I could get. But you don*t need new axles.
itsabird
03-23-2008, 08:24 AM
in this case i would go bigger, it,s better to have it, and not need it, than need it, and not have it, with that kind of hp, i would want it.!!!
topcat572
03-23-2008, 09:14 AM
I got 5/8 on my digger with less hp, yes move up, You wont be sorry. 8)
Tod74
03-23-2008, 10:35 AM
NO QUESTION....5/8!!
lively
03-23-2008, 12:19 PM
???--DO YOU HAVE TO DRILL OUT YOUR ALUMINUM RIMS BIGGER OR IS THE LUG NUT SHANK JUST THINNER???
itsabird
03-23-2008, 01:40 PM
lug nut,s for 5/8 will not have a shank.
deepockets
03-23-2008, 05:29 PM
the wheels will still work, wondering if the axls will be ok to br drilled, or are they hardened after there done from manufacture. i guess i can call strange tommorow
sg5492
03-23-2008, 06:37 PM
I got 5/8 on my digger with less hp, yes move up, You wont be sorry. 8)
I have less HP in my 69 and have 5/8
suicidebomb
03-23-2008, 09:09 PM
They can be drilled.
Tod74
03-23-2008, 10:54 PM
???--DO YOU HAVE TO DRILL OUT YOUR ALUMINUM RIMS BIGGER OR IS THE LUG NUT SHANK JUST THINNER???
The stud is the same sixze as hole in wheel( 11/16) and you use a washer and nut. The nut is just a flange nut not a typical lug nut with shank
dcarr511
03-24-2008, 03:00 AM
They can be drilled.
What did you do to drill them ? When I tired it on a pair of Moser Axles I used a Carbide bit and couldnt cut through them, had to send them back in so they could be annealed, drilled and then rehardened.
Return & Shipping and labor was around 100 $
suicidebomb
03-24-2008, 03:23 AM
Mine are mosers too, we drilled them on a bridgeport, but I don*t remember using any special drill. But we may have, we did it about 4 years ago in a friend of mines machine shop, if he can remember i*ll find out and post here.
Tod74
03-24-2008, 03:46 AM
I thought you had to send em off....that is what I have heard...mine was already done when I got the car.
itsabird
03-24-2008, 07:22 AM
i don,t think, that section of the axel is as hard as the shaft, so it would be drillable if thats a fact, but it will have to be taped for screw in studs, i don,t know of any press fit 5/8 studs. it might be less of a pain to send them out.
suicidebomb
03-24-2008, 07:33 AM
Guys, I dont remember them being hard to drill at all. I did the drilling after he helped me set up the mill, and we tapped the holes for screw in studs. I*M still trying to get a hold of him, when I do I*ll let you know.
suicidebomb
03-24-2008, 06:35 PM
It took me awhile to run him down, but I finally found him. For that I apologize. HE said that we used a titanium nitride bit. he said it was very sharp, and he said we drowned it in oil. run the bit at 175 RPM. Anyhow, thats how he said we did it. I think we did the whole thing, all 10 holes in less than an hour including setting up the mill. We used the mill to tap the holes also.
olds48
04-03-2008, 04:28 PM
I'd be more concerned with the tapping than the drilling....if you get ONE hole started crooked your stud will poke out all crazy and you WON'T be able to get your wheels on...or have another chance to fix it :oops: I believe in doing everything you can yourself,but unless you have the proper machines...leave it to the pros.That's just my $.02
curtisreed
04-03-2008, 05:17 PM
Eric,
It's not that hard to get a tap started straight, just get a piece of material as thick as the threads on the tap are long, drill it so the tap just fits through it. Clamp it to the flange in line with the hole, you have your guide that way. Easy and straight. Of course the best way is just use the mill to do it, no problem if you have access to a mill. I just through it up on my HMC and push the button.
Curtis
suicidebomb
04-03-2008, 05:51 PM
Just as soon as i get a place for a good used mill, I*m gonna get me one. Mans greatest invention next to the thermos bottle! :D
olds48
04-04-2008, 05:37 AM
Eric,
It's not that hard to get a tap started straight, just get a piece of material as thick as the threads on the tap are long, drill it so the tap just fits through it. Clamp it to the flange in line with the hole, you have your guide that way. Easy and straight. Of course the best way is just use the mill to do it, no problem if you have access to a mill. I just through it up on my HMC and push the button.
Curtis
True..but I didn't want him to tackle it with a tap set from Lowe's :oops:
curtisreed
04-04-2008, 06:24 AM
Eric,
It's not that hard to get a tap started straight, just get a piece of material as thick as the threads on the tap are long, drill it so the tap just fits through it. Clamp it to the flange in line with the hole, you have your guide that way. Easy and straight. Of course the best way is just use the mill to do it, no problem if you have access to a mill. I just through it up on my HMC and push the button.
Curtis
True..but I didn't want him to tackle it with a tap set from Lowe's :oops:
Or worse yet Harbour Freight!!!!
olds48
04-04-2008, 04:09 PM
:lol: :lol:
oneowner73
04-04-2008, 07:30 PM
Sent my axles to a local machine shop. When you get them back install the studs and then trial fit them into the wheels before you install the axles in the housing. My wheels had been run for a few seasons with the shank type nuts with washers. The edges of the holes had been rolled into the hole. It took some time to clean this up and make everything fit properly. Also don't forget the brake hat or drum, they will need opened up also.
Brian