ladder bar help
#51
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: La.
Posts: 2,890
I've been watching this thread from the beginning. I personaly think you are going about it the wrong way, but that's your decision. I agree with the previous poster the ride height should be set first. I personaly would have cut out the floor from behind the drivers seat and backhalfed the car, hooking the ladder bar cross member to the frame ties. But i know you don't want to cut up the car more than you have too. I worked on an AMX 2 seater a few yrs. ago, he also didn't want to cut up the car. In my opinion i would take out the rear end, weld all the components on the housing and then set it under the car set the ride height and build the shock mounts top bar and the shock mounts. I use 1"X1" tubing to set the ride height, see pic below. These are only suggestions, i'm not a pro builder, i've only done a few cars, but they worked very well.
JMO
Zip.
JMO
Zip.
#52
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: B.C. Canada
Posts: 145
The reason I keep bringing up pinion angle is, you have leaf spring in your car, when you put the rear end under load the pinion wants to rotate up, and it DOES, from the factory they new this, sooo they tilt the pinion down as much as 7-8 degrees.
On a ladder bar car the pinion cant rise, if you weld your bars to your housing the way it is. your pinion could have a 7-8 degree angle(not good for U-joints or ET's). you will have some adjustment on the rod ends but you dont have adustable links on the bottom bar which will make it a pain in the a**.
This is why I keep saying... put the front of the ladder bar in the middle hole with 0-1 degree pinion angle at ride height. This way, if you move the front of the bar down (which increases your pinion angle) you will have room on the rear joints to to adjust to 0-1degree pinion angle. Viceversa if you raise the front of the bars.
Raising or lowering the rear of the car also changes your pinion angle.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html
This might help you understand what I'm trying to get across.
Good luck,
cam67152
On a ladder bar car the pinion cant rise, if you weld your bars to your housing the way it is. your pinion could have a 7-8 degree angle(not good for U-joints or ET's). you will have some adjustment on the rod ends but you dont have adustable links on the bottom bar which will make it a pain in the a**.
This is why I keep saying... put the front of the ladder bar in the middle hole with 0-1 degree pinion angle at ride height. This way, if you move the front of the bar down (which increases your pinion angle) you will have room on the rear joints to to adjust to 0-1degree pinion angle. Viceversa if you raise the front of the bars.
Raising or lowering the rear of the car also changes your pinion angle.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html
This might help you understand what I'm trying to get across.
Good luck,
cam67152
#53
Junior Member
JOURNEYMAN
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 27
Ok so basically find out what ride height i want the car to be at (i will do this by putting in the rear coil overs first) then check pinion angle, then do the ladder bars and x member? sorry for the vary vague terms.
i set the pinion angle to 0 or 1 deg no matter the cars rake? i am just supposed to make the rear end parallel to the ground? sorry just want to clarify
and thanks for all the help you guys i really appreciate it
Thanks justin
i set the pinion angle to 0 or 1 deg no matter the cars rake? i am just supposed to make the rear end parallel to the ground? sorry just want to clarify
and thanks for all the help you guys i really appreciate it
Thanks justin
#57
Junior Member
JOURNEYMAN
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 27
ok i got a another question sorry
i got the rear coil overs tacked in and what not how important is it if i am a little off level? like say a 1/16th or less out is that still alright? there out almost exactly the same to
thanks justin
i got the rear coil overs tacked in and what not how important is it if i am a little off level? like say a 1/16th or less out is that still alright? there out almost exactly the same to
thanks justin
#58
THIS is why you want a COMPITENT welder....
#59
Junior Member
JOURNEYMAN
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 27
hey all thanks for all your help i couldn't have done it with out you. i did find out how "crooked" my car is lol next time i do this it will be a back half kit
i will post pictures after i get car back from welders
i will post pictures after i get car back from welders