{"id":93737,"date":"2024-03-07T14:32:17","date_gmt":"2024-03-07T22:32:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=93737"},"modified":"2024-03-07T14:32:17","modified_gmt":"2024-03-07T22:32:17","slug":"mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/","title":{"rendered":"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly"},"content":{"rendered":"<div data-carousel-extra='{\"blog_id\":1,\"permalink\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\\\/\"}' id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-93737 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/1-min-96\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1-min-1-scaled-e1709850609993-150x150.webp\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-95150\" data-attachment-id=\"95150\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/1-min-96\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1-min-1-scaled-e1709850609993.webp\" data-orig-size=\"640,296\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Although it is possible to build an engine almost anywhere, a clean environment is a must. In my workshop, I stop any activities that create dust and grit. For example, if another project requires grinding, then I either move the operation to another spot (for example, perform the grinding outdoors or in my tractor garage) or figure out another time to get it done.&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;You\u2019ll also need a workbench. I have one in my garage, and I\u2019ll be the first to tell you it\u2019s too small and it seems regularly cluttered. You have to clean it off! If you don\u2019t have a good workbench, a sturdy folding table will suffice (places like Costco sell inexpensive jobs). Once the clutter is reduced, I regularly cover the bench surface with paper. Some folks use good old-fashioned newspaper. Others use butcher paper. I use white poster board, because it\u2019s easy to spot little parts and it\u2019s a wee bit more immune to oil spills than newsprint.&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;When it comes to using tools, I always make it a practice to clean them after use. I\u2019ve found a quick shot of brake cleaner (aerosol) and a wipe down with a clean paper towel goes a long way toward keeping the project clean. It also makes it more enjoyable to work with the tools.&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the Pieces\u2026&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;When it comes to assembling an engine, one of the biggest mistakes a novice can make is to contaminate the components. Any piece of grit that turns up during the assembly process can (and regularly will) scratch internal surfaces such as the cylinder walls or reciprocating components. I\u2019m convinced contamination is one of the leading causes of premature engine failure. Because of this, once the parts return from the machine shop (obviously something you can\u2019t do in your own garage), they must be thoroughly cleaned and kept clean during the entire assembly job.&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;So how do you clean it? It\u2019s actually rather simple. Once the machining operations are complete scrub everything with hot water and good old-fashioned liquid dish detergent (car wash detergent works too). The catch here is, you have to access all of the oil gallery holes. That means the block gallery plugs should all be removed (as is regularly the case with blocks that have been through a machining process). Several companies offer brush kits. I acquired mine a long time ago and it included several different brushes designed to work in engine oil galleries. When shopping for a kit, make sure it has some extra-long brushes for use when scrubbing oil galleries adjacent to the cylinder block lifter bores.&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;The old backcountry garage I used when these photos were taken wasn\u2019t blessed with a paved driveway or even a cement apron in front of the overhead doors. It was simply gravel. To circumvent grit accumulation during the wash cycle, I always place the block and components being cleaned on a rubber mat. An old pickup truck tailgate mat or bed floor mat works perfectly. Before going any further, you have to make mental note: Once you start cleaning something like a cylinder block with soap and water, you can\u2019t stop until the job is done. The old saying about \u201crust never sleeps\u201d truly applies here. You need time to complete both the wash and dry cycles!&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;First things first: Hot water and soap is mixed into a bucket and the pressure washer is hooked to a hot water tap. I use a conventional car wash scrub brush for the initial cleaning. Once that\u2019s done, I remove the cylinder block main caps and go through all of the oil galleries with brushes. Once you figure everything is clean, start all over again and rescrub the entire works.&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;Once the second wash cycle is complete, turn on your pressure washer. Every nook, cranny and oil gallery should be blown out. It\u2019s my practice to continue spraying hot rinse water until the water comes out clean. Then the block is moved (flipped) and the hot rinse continues again. Repeat at least once more and you\u2019re ready to dry the works off.&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;I\u2019m fortunate in that I own a big 220-volt, 5.5 horsepower compound air compressor. It produces copious quantities of air. No matter what type of compressor you own (or rent), be sure the regulator is set to provide something in the range of 100+ PSI. Snap a blowgun attachment into the air hose and basically, let the compressor rip. What you really need to do is to blow as much water off the engine as possible. And the quicker the better. Use the air force to blow all of the water out of the oil galleries, and don\u2019t be timid. There will be plenty of water moving around, particularly from the exit points of smaller oil passages.&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;Once the block is blown dry, you must oil all of the machined surfaces. There are a couple of ways to accomplish this: A clean rag soaked in clean light oil (for example 10-30) or automatic transmission fluid works. So does a light mist of WD40, followed by a wipe down with clean shop towel. WD40 will naturally displace water, so it works in your favor. I always clean the machined surfaces until the shop towels show absolutely no trace of dirt. The preferred towel here is actually a roll or two of paper towels. I prefer the mechanic style blue jobs since they don\u2019t tear or shed as easily as kitchen towels (Costco and other discount houses sell them in bulk).&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;I treat all of the internal engine components to the same cleaning process. Once clean, I place the various bits into fresh plastic bags (freezer bags work) and zip them shut until I need the respective parts. When cleaning items such as a crankshaft, you\u2019ll note that small engine cleaning brushes go a long way toward getting into the various oil passages. Be careful not to nick any machined surfaces.&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;After the block is spic and span, it should be wrapped up. While jumbo garbage bags work, they\u2019re usually flimsy. I prefer to use an engine storage bag. Several companies, including offer large 4-mil plastic bags designed to protect racing engines against dirt and moisture. They\u2019re large enough to accommodate an assembled big-block &amp;#8211; even one with headers in place. These sturdy covers are ideal for storing and transporting race motors too. And that means they\u2019re perfect for protecting your block while you\u2019re not working on it. I always wrap the block or engine immediately after work on it has ended. Remember, the main idea is to keep contamination to a minimum.&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1-min-1-scaled-e1709850609993-300x139.webp\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1-min-1-1024x685.webp\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-95150'>\n\t\t\t\tAlthough it is possible to build an engine almost anywhere, a clean environment is a must. In my workshop, I stop any activities that create dust and grit. For example, if another project requires grinding, then I either move the operation to another spot (for example, perform the grinding outdoors or in my tractor garage) or figure out another time to get it done.\n\nYou\u2019ll also need a workbench. I have one in my garage, and I\u2019ll be the first to tell you it\u2019s too small and it seems regularly cluttered. You have to clean it off! If you don\u2019t have a good workbench, a sturdy folding table will suffice (places like Costco sell inexpensive jobs). Once the clutter is reduced, I regularly cover the bench surface with paper. Some folks use good old-fashioned newspaper. Others use butcher paper. I use white poster board, because it\u2019s easy to spot little parts and it\u2019s a wee bit more immune to oil spills than newsprint.\n\nWhen it comes to using tools, I always make it a practice to clean them after use. I\u2019ve found a quick shot of brake cleaner (aerosol) and a wipe down with a clean paper towel goes a long way toward keeping the project clean. It also makes it more enjoyable to work with the tools.\n\nCleaning the Pieces\u2026\n\nWhen it comes to assembling an engine, one of the biggest mistakes a novice can make is to contaminate the components. Any piece of grit that turns up during the assembly process can (and regularly will) scratch internal surfaces such as the cylinder walls or reciprocating components. I\u2019m convinced contamination is one of the leading causes of premature engine failure. Because of this, once the parts return from the machine shop (obviously something you can\u2019t do in your own garage), they must be thoroughly cleaned and kept clean during the entire assembly job.\n\nSo how do you clean it? It\u2019s actually rather simple. Once the machining operations are complete scrub everything with hot water and good old-fashioned liquid dish detergent (car wash detergent works too). The catch here is, you have to access all of the oil gallery holes. That means the block gallery plugs should all be removed (as is regularly the case with blocks that have been through a machining process). Several companies offer brush kits. I acquired mine a long time ago and it included several different brushes designed to work in engine oil galleries. When shopping for a kit, make sure it has some extra-long brushes for use when scrubbing oil galleries adjacent to the cylinder block lifter bores.\n\nThe old backcountry garage I used when these photos were taken wasn\u2019t blessed with a paved driveway or even a cement apron in front of the overhead doors. It was simply gravel. To circumvent grit accumulation during the wash cycle, I always place the block and components being cleaned on a rubber mat. An old pickup truck tailgate mat or bed floor mat works perfectly. Before going any further, you have to make mental note: Once you start cleaning something like a cylinder block with soap and water, you can\u2019t stop until the job is done. The old saying about \u201crust never sleeps\u201d truly applies here. You need time to complete both the wash and dry cycles!\n\nFirst things first: Hot water and soap is mixed into a bucket and the pressure washer is hooked to a hot water tap. I use a conventional car wash scrub brush for the initial cleaning. Once that\u2019s done, I remove the cylinder block main caps and go through all of the oil galleries with brushes. Once you figure everything is clean, start all over again and rescrub the entire works.\n\nOnce the second wash cycle is complete, turn on your pressure washer. Every nook, cranny and oil gallery should be blown out. It\u2019s my practice to continue spraying hot rinse water until the water comes out clean. Then the block is moved (flipped) and the hot rinse continues again. Repeat at least once more and you\u2019re ready to dry the works off.\n\nI\u2019m fortunate in that I own a big 220-volt, 5.5 horsepower compound air compressor. It produces copious quantities of air. No matter what type of compressor you own (or rent), be sure the regulator is set to provide something in the range of 100+ PSI. Snap a blowgun attachment into the air hose and basically, let the compressor rip. What you really need to do is to blow as much water off the engine as possible. And the quicker the better. Use the air force to blow all of the water out of the oil galleries, and don\u2019t be timid. There will be plenty of water moving around, particularly from the exit points of smaller oil passages.\n\nOnce the block is blown dry, you must oil all of the machined surfaces. There are a couple of ways to accomplish this: A clean rag soaked in clean light oil (for example 10-30) or automatic transmission fluid works. So does a light mist of WD40, followed by a wipe down with clean shop towel. WD40 will naturally displace water, so it works in your favor. I always clean the machined surfaces until the shop towels show absolutely no trace of dirt. The preferred towel here is actually a roll or two of paper towels. I prefer the mechanic style blue jobs since they don\u2019t tear or shed as easily as kitchen towels (Costco and other discount houses sell them in bulk).\n\nI treat all of the internal engine components to the same cleaning process. Once clean, I place the various bits into fresh plastic bags (freezer bags work) and zip them shut until I need the respective parts. When cleaning items such as a crankshaft, you\u2019ll note that small engine cleaning brushes go a long way toward getting into the various oil passages. Be careful not to nick any machined surfaces.\n\nAfter the block is spic and span, it should be wrapped up. While jumbo garbage bags work, they\u2019re usually flimsy. I prefer to use an engine storage bag. Several companies, including offer large 4-mil plastic bags designed to protect racing engines against dirt and moisture. They\u2019re large enough to accommodate an assembled big-block &#8211; even one with headers in place. These sturdy covers are ideal for storing and transporting race motors too. And that means they\u2019re perfect for protecting your block while you\u2019re not working on it. I always wrap the block or engine immediately after work on it has ended. Remember, the main idea is to keep contamination to a minimum.\n\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/2-min-63\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/2-min-1-150x150.webp\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-95151\" data-attachment-id=\"95151\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/2-min-63\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/2-min-1-scaled.webp\" data-orig-size=\"2560,1714\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Scrub all of the accessible surfaces with soap and water. Liquid dish detergent works perfectly. So does automotive car wash soap. You\u2019ll go through a lot of soap and water. The pieces need to be clean. Once clean, remove the main bearing caps and clean them separately (they\u2019re not removed in this photo). Removing the caps allows you to access the main bearing oil galleries.&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/2-min-1-300x201.webp\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/2-min-1-1024x685.webp\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-95151'>\n\t\t\t\tScrub all of the accessible surfaces with soap and water. Liquid dish detergent works perfectly. So does automotive car wash soap. You\u2019ll go through a lot of soap and water. The pieces need to be clean. Once clean, remove the main bearing caps and clean them separately (they\u2019re not removed in this photo). Removing the caps allows you to access the main bearing oil galleries.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/3-min-66\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/3-min-1-150x150.webp\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-95152\" data-attachment-id=\"95152\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/3-min-66\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/3-min-1-scaled.webp\" data-orig-size=\"2560,1714\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Once the outside is initially cleaned, you can scrub the internal oil passages. The extra-long brushes are designed so that you scrub the entire length of the lifter oil galleries and in the case of this engine, the main oil gallery.&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/3-min-1-300x201.webp\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/3-min-1-1024x685.webp\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-95152'>\n\t\t\t\tOnce the outside is initially cleaned, you can scrub the internal oil passages. The extra-long brushes are designed so that you scrub the entire length of the lifter oil galleries and in the case of this engine, the main oil gallery.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/4-min-57\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/4-min-1-150x150.webp\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-attachment-id=\"95153\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/4-min-57\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/4-min-1-scaled.webp\" data-orig-size=\"2560,1714\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/4-min-1-300x201.webp\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/4-min-1-1024x685.webp\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/5-min-50\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5-min-1-150x150.webp\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-95154\" data-attachment-id=\"95154\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/5-min-50\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5-min-1-scaled.webp\" data-orig-size=\"1714,2560\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Once rinsed a number of times with hot water, you can dry the works off. Compressed air and lots of it is your friend when it comes to drying engine hardware. I typically wipe dry multiple times using either WD 40 or engine oil (or ATF). The text offers more insight.&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5-min-1-201x300.webp\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5-min-1-685x1024.webp\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-95154'>\n\t\t\t\tOnce rinsed a number of times with hot water, you can dry the works off. Compressed air and lots of it is your friend when it comes to drying engine hardware. I typically wipe dry multiple times using either WD 40 or engine oil (or ATF). The text offers more insight.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/6-min-47\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/6-min-150x150.webp\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-95155\" data-attachment-id=\"95155\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/6-min-47\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/6-min-scaled.webp\" data-orig-size=\"2560,1714\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Continue to wipe the block down until the shop towels no longer show any traces of dirt. Paper towels are better than cloth for this task, and I prefer these blue mechanic towels.&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/6-min-300x201.webp\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/6-min-1024x685.webp\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-95155'>\n\t\t\t\tContinue to wipe the block down until the shop towels no longer show any traces of dirt. Paper towels are better than cloth for this task, and I prefer these blue mechanic towels.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/7-min-38\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/7-min-150x150.webp\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-95156\" data-attachment-id=\"95156\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/7-min-38\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/7-min-scaled.webp\" data-orig-size=\"1714,2560\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Your finished cylinder block should look like this when you\u2019re done. In this example, the water jack core (soft) plugs were installed when the block was CNC machined. Remember, spotless is the operative word and you really can\u2019t get these pieces clean enough!&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/7-min-201x300.webp\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/7-min-685x1024.webp\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-95156'>\n\t\t\t\tYour finished cylinder block should look like this when you\u2019re done. In this example, the water jack core (soft) plugs were installed when the block was CNC machined. Remember, spotless is the operative word and you really can\u2019t get these pieces clean enough!\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/8-min-43\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/8-min-150x150.webp\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-95157\" data-attachment-id=\"95157\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/8-min-43\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/8-min-scaled.webp\" data-orig-size=\"2560,1714\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Other components such as the main caps, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and wrist pins also need cleaning (using the same process as the bare block). The crank has oil passages machined into it too. Don\u2019t forget about them.&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/8-min-300x201.webp\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/8-min-1024x685.webp\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-95157'>\n\t\t\t\tOther components such as the main caps, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and wrist pins also need cleaning (using the same process as the bare block). The crank has oil passages machined into it too. Don\u2019t forget about them.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/9-min-40\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/9-min-150x150.webp\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-attachment-id=\"95158\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/9-min-40\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/9-min-scaled.webp\" data-orig-size=\"1714,2560\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/9-min-201x300.webp\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/9-min-685x1024.webp\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/10-min-36\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/10-min-150x150.webp\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-95159\" data-attachment-id=\"95159\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/mr-clean-prepping-an-engine-block-for-assembly\/10-min-36\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/10-min-scaled.webp\" data-orig-size=\"2560,1714\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"MR. Clean: Prepping An Engine Block For Assembly\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;When you\u2019re not working on the various engine pieces, wrap them tightly with plastic. In case you\u2019re wondering, I generally try to keep a clean oil-soaked craft paper on the outer machined surfaces (inside the bag). This example is a paper called \u201cArmor Wrap\u201d, but any clean paper will work.&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/10-min-300x201.webp\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/10-min-1024x685.webp\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-95159'>\n\t\t\t\tWhen you\u2019re not working on the various engine pieces, wrap them tightly with plastic. In case you\u2019re wondering, I generally try to keep a clean oil-soaked craft paper on the outer machined surfaces (inside the bag). This example is a paper called \u201cArmor Wrap\u201d, but any clean paper will work.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>Although it is possible to build an engine almost anywhere, a clean environment is a must.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":20,"featured_media":95150,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3697,17,3470,4879],"tags":[9611,813,281,881,41,461,321],"class_list":["post-93737","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-galleries","category-guest-column","category-news","category-slideshow","tag-engine-blocks","tag-gallery","tag-how-to","tag-maintenance","tag-news","tag-tech-tips-2","tag-wayne-scraba"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1-min-1-scaled-e1709850609993.webp","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-onT","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/93737","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/20"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=93737"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/93737\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":95160,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/93737\/revisions\/95160"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/95150"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=93737"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=93737"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=93737"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}