{"id":78105,"date":"2021-02-25T18:01:27","date_gmt":"2021-02-26T02:01:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=78105"},"modified":"2024-01-17T07:52:38","modified_gmt":"2024-01-17T15:52:38","slug":"custom-headers-are-totally-tubular-part-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/custom-headers-are-totally-tubular-part-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Custom Headers are Totally Tubular Part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"jetpack-slideshow-noscript robots-nocontent\">This slideshow requires JavaScript.<\/p><div id=\"gallery-78105-1-slideshow\" class=\"jetpack-slideshow-window jetpack-slideshow jetpack-slideshow-black\" data-trans=\"fade\" data-autostart=\"1\" data-gallery=\"[{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/02\\\/1-min-scaled-e1614304828625.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;78107&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Custom Headers are Totally Tubular Part 1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Tubular Headers&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Click Here to Begin Slideshow\\nIn some car builds, the time comes when you realize there is no way on earth a stock, off-the-shelf header is going to fit.\\u00a0 Sure, some can be persuaded to fit by way of modifications (hammer, bigger hammer, moving pipes, etc.), but there are many instances where that won\\u2019t even help.\\u00a0 Or, the cost of the mods (moving pipes) is more than the cost of the headers.\\n\\nSometimes something that seems insignificant can totally mess up header fit. I speak from personal experience, and I\\u2019ll share some of it with you.\\u00a0 A good example is the Nova project I have and you\\u2019ve seen bits and pieces of it on these pages. It\\u2019s a pretty straightforward build and it also uses pretty common parts (1968-74 Novas and 1967-1969 Camaros share similar front subframes \\u2013 as you can well imagine, the interchange and availability of hardware is considerable). The Nova is receiving a big block Chevy and the subframe is fitted with correct big block frame stands. It has manual steering, manual brakes and a heater delete.\\u00a0 It\\u2019s a stick shift combination. I\\u2019m using a mini starter. It\\u2019s Simple City.\\u00a0 Or so it would seem.\\u00a0 An off-the-shelf header should drop right in.\\u00a0 Maybe.\\n\\nHere\\u2019s the rub:\\u00a0 The Brodix BB3-Xtra heads I\\u2019m using on my large displacement big block have raised ports.\\u00a0 In fact, they\\u2019re raised 0.600-inch.\\u00a0 That\\u2019s a bunch.\\u00a0 But I had a brand new set of 2.25-inch tube diameter Hooker race headers in my parts stash.\\u00a0 I thought I\\u2019d give them a go and see if they could come close to fitting.\\u00a0 What I did next was to mock up the engine.\\u00a0 This consisted of a plastic mock up block, my Brodix heads, a Quick Time bellhousing, a clutch fork and basic clutch linkage along with a mock up four speed transmission.\\u00a0 I bolted the works together, using the correct motor and transmission mounts (another story, but we\\u2019ll save that for another time).\\u00a0 At this point, I attempted to install the headers (keeping in mind these were multi-piece headers and they\\u2019re technically easy to install).\\u00a0 I started with the worst job, and that\\u2019s the driver side.\\u00a0 Amongst other fit issues, the header tube for #5 cylinder would not fit because it interfered with the rag joint.\\u00a0 I tried clearancing the tube with a press (basically, I use a piece of heavy wall pipe and a press to dimple the header tube rather than a sledge hammer \\u2013 it\\u2019s cleaner).\\u00a0 \\n\\nFollowing multiple attempts, it was pretty clear this tube would never work. It would have to be moved.\\u00a0 And another tube on this side required massaging (at the least).\\u00a0 Fair enough. Back to the passenger side.\\u00a0 The fit on this side was equally frustrating. Here I\\u2019d need at least one, and most likely two pipes moved.\\u00a0 Starter clearance wasn\\u2019t exactly fabulous either, even with the small Tilton starter I\\u2019m using.\\u00a0 And finally, the headers obviously sat a bit high in the chassis (keeping in mind the ports are 0.600-inch higher up). Moving the ports up, also forces the headers outboard toward the fenders.\\u00a0 As a result of this, I was experiencing fitment issues coming at me from more than one direction.\\n\\nSomething else you have to ponder when selecting headers is tube size. Yes, tube size influences power along with the point an engine produces power.\\u00a0 But some of today\\u2019s cylinder heads have ports sufficiently large (or different in shape), shelf-headers aren\\u2019t available. Basically, what you don\\u2019t want is a header tube that is smaller than the exhaust port.\\u00a0 If that happens, you\\u2019ll create a serious flow restriction in the exhaust; and not mention the gasket won\\u2019t last long.\\n\\nBack to my situation:\\u00a0 At this point, it was decision time.\\u00a0 It would probably cost me a couple of hundred dollars (or more) in fab work to move the respective tubes. There was also the very good chance that I\\u2019d have to go back and modify more tubes once I had them close to fitting.\\u00a0 Modifying them didn\\u2019t seem like such a great plan.\\u00a0 Instead of cobbling up the headers and making a perfectly good set of adjustable race headers un-usable, I decided to sell them and put the proceeds toward the purchase of a custom header set.\\n\\nThere are a number of individuals and companies out there who will build semi-custom headers and\\\/or custom headers for a given application.\\u00a0 Mine came from Lemons Headers (PO Box 202,\\nPaso Robles, CA 93447; PH: 805-239-8998; website: https:\\\/\\\/lemonsheaders.com\\\/).\\n\\nA few others I\\u2019m aware of (and there are certainly plenty more) include REF Unlimited in Arizona (PH: 928-692-0111), Stahl ACP Headers (website: https:\\\/\\\/acpheaders.com), Performance Welding Racing Headers in California (PH: 530-367-4124), Kromer Kraft Headers in Ohio (PH: 330-539-5053), and Elston Exhaust in North Carolina (PH: 346-704-4430).\\n\\nSome of the shops have tooling setup for specific header applications. That way, if you have a tall deck block or raised ports, or an unconventional port location (amongst other things), the shop will build the headers to fit. But if you have something very unique (for example, something like, oh a 426 Hemi in a Gremlin), you\\u2019ll most likely need to take your car to the shop.\\n\\nUsing Lemons Headers as the example, you\\u2019ll find they offer custom headers for a wide range of Chevy applications \\u2013 big and small block along with specific LS swaps. There are all sorts of options too:\\u00a0 There are several different configurations for common cars \\u2013 some with stock engine location; some with a big block on small block frame mounts (stands); some for big blocks on big block frame mounts (in the case of first gen Camaros, this moves the engine toward the passenger side); some for cars with aftermarket front clips; some for cars with a stock chassis and rack and pinion steering; some with a stock chassis and a dry sump pan and so on. Some of the configurations are available with tubing as large as 2.5-inches and collectors up to 5-inches in diameter (or a header muffler with a diameter of 6-inches). Small blocks can go up to 2.25-inch in tube size with a maximum collector diameter of 4-inches). You can specify step headers with your choice of dimensions too.\\u00a0 Basically, name your poison!\\n\\nSome headers will not fit cars with air conditioning. Ditto with column shifter linkage. With big tube custom headers, you\\u2019ll often have to trim one or more of the corners on the factory frame mounts (stands).\\u00a0 According to Lemons Headers:\\u00a0 \\u201cThe stock front motor mount frame stand on the driver side hangs over the back of the \\u201cK\\u201d member about \\u00be\\u201d. The top back corner of this frame stand needs to be notched for header room.\\u201d When used with OEM rubber or aftermarket poly motor mounts, there might be some trimming of the mount involved.\\u00a0 If you have a stick shift car with a big Lakewood style bellhousing, that too might need to be trimmed lightly on the outer edge adjacent the starter location. \\u00a0Oil pan kickouts can have an effect upon header choice too.\\u00a0 Case-in-point is the fit of large tube race headers in first gen Camaros:\\u00a0 Lemons Headers note:\\u00a0 \\u201cif there is no oil pan kickout on the driver side, the (oil) filter is easily accessible, but if your oil pan kicks out under the filter, it will be trapped and you will need a remote filter\\u201d.\\u00a0 The same applies to starters. Lemons advises that in many of their applications, a full size stock Chevy starter will not fit.\\u00a0 You\\u2019ll need an aftermarket mini-starter. On some applications (for example, some Chevelle headers), a tube or tubes may go over and around the frame.\\u00a0 This means the inner fender panels will require trimming.\\n\\nThat\\u2019s a wrap for this issue, but we\\u2019re far from done!\\u00a0 Next time around, we\\u2019ll look a number of options available and we\\u2019ll also devote space to a series of installation tips, courtesy of Lemons Headers. Watch for it.\\u00a0 There\\u2019s some good info there for everyone.\\n\\nClick Here to Begin Slideshow&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/02\\\/2-min-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;78108&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Custom Headers are Totally Tubular Part 1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Cylinder Heads&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;We\\u2019ve shared this photo on these pages before. But it provides graphic proof why headers for stock height ports (left) often run into interference issues when used with raised ports (right).  FYI, those ports are raised 0.600-inch.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/02\\\/3-min-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;78109&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Custom Headers are Totally Tubular Part 1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Tubular Headers&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The solution is a custom or semi-custom header of some sort. This example (and ditto with the one in the next photo) came from Lemons Headers.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/02\\\/4-min-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;78110&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Custom Headers are Totally Tubular Part 1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Tubular Headers&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;While the left side provided serious fit issues with my old headers, the right wasn\\u2019t much better. The Lemons headers fixed the issue. But they were made for the specific application.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/02\\\/5-min-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;78111&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Custom Headers are Totally Tubular Part 1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The exhaust ports on some heads such as these BB3-Xtra jobs from Brodix can be large.  So large, that header tubes can actually hang into the port.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/02\\\/6-min-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;78112&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Custom Headers are Totally Tubular Part 1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The Lemons Headers shown here have a 2.25-inch primary tube size.  Note the machined 3\\\/16-inch flange.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/02\\\/7-min-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;78113&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Custom Headers are Totally Tubular Part 1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Quality custom headers will often be nicely TIG welded, as shown here.  Attention to detail is a big part of what you\\u2019re paying for.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/02\\\/8-min-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;78106&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Custom Headers are Totally Tubular Part 1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Downstairs, the slip on collectors on these headers make use of a merge spear or cone.  FYI, these collectors have an outside diameter of 4-inches.  There are plenty of other options available.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;}]\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/ImageGallery\"><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>In some car builds, the time comes when you realize there is no way on earth a stock, off-the-shelf header is going to fit.  Sure, some can be persuaded to fit by way of modifications (hammer, bigger hammer, moving pipes, etc.), but there are many instances where that won\u2019t even help.  Or, the cost of the mods (moving pipes) is more than the cost of the headers.  <\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":20,"featured_media":78107,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[5014,3697,3470,5401,4879],"tags":[2,1364,1164,41,4764,321],"class_list":["post-78105","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-exhaust-headers","category-galleries","category-news","category-racing-tips","category-slideshow","tag-drag-racing","tag-exhaust","tag-headers","tag-news","tag-tech","tag-wayne-scraba"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/1-min-scaled-e1614304828625.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-kjL","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/78105","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/20"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=78105"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/78105\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":78114,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/78105\/revisions\/78114"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/78107"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=78105"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=78105"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=78105"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}