{"id":74210,"date":"2020-07-30T09:56:47","date_gmt":"2020-07-30T16:56:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=74210"},"modified":"2020-08-14T11:23:51","modified_gmt":"2020-08-14T18:23:51","slug":"50-engine-compartment-detailing-tips-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/50-engine-compartment-detailing-tips-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"jetpack-slideshow-noscript robots-nocontent\">This slideshow requires JavaScript.<\/p><div id=\"gallery-74210-1-slideshow\" class=\"jetpack-slideshow-window jetpack-slideshow jetpack-slideshow-black\" data-trans=\"fade\" data-autostart=\"1\" data-gallery=\"[{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/1-1-scaled-e1596128076681.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74211&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Detailing Engine Compartment&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;In our last issue we began a look at engine compartment detailing. Basically, it\\u2019s not a how to do it series. Instead, it\\u2019s an \\u201cidea series\\u201d. What I\\u2019ve done here is shown you how I lay out the engine compartment in a bare-bones vintage street machine. You don\\u2019t have to copy any of it or all of it. But if something turns your crank, please feel free to use it.\\u00a0 Some jokingly call the process \\u201cR\\u0026#038;D\\u201d or\\u2026 \\u201cRob \\u0026#038; Duplicate\\u201d!\\u00a0\\n\\nLast time around we examined the basic platform \\u2013 subframe, bushings, rad support, inner fenders and so on. None of the parts were one-offs.\\u00a0 All are readily available from a wide range of suppliers. This time around we\\u2019ll dig a little deeper into some of the suspension parts along with other details.\\u00a0 And once again, all of the bits and pieces are readily available.\\u00a0 \\n\\nClick Here to Begin Slideshow&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/15-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74212&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Hood lach assembly&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;15:  The support for the hood latch assembly was out when the rad support came out. As a result, it too was stripped and freshly semi-gloss black.  This one was done in a booth, but I\\u2019ve also had them powder coated.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/16-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74213&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;A Arms&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The upper and lower a-arms were replaced on this car. Although not a detail item, they certainly don\\u2019t hurt the looks.  Detroit Speed built these and the quality is fabulous.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/17-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74214&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;a-arms&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The Detroit Speed a-arms incorporate Delrin bushings top and bottom, and as you can see, a nicely machined stainless steel cross shaft.  By the way, caster is set by replacing a slug recessed into the cross shaft.  Slick idea.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/18-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74215&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The a-arm flaps or dust shields were also replaced.  These pieces came from Classic Industries.  Note the new steel staples. They\\u2019re installed \\u201cbackwards\\u201d from how they typically came on many cars (staple facing inward). The reason is, I think it looks better.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/19-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74216&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;idler arm&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The idler arm is a new piece too. Look closely and you\\u2019ll see the bolts are installed backwards. The reason for this is, it makes for more room, especially when installing headers.  Note too the fasteners used here are AN.  I like to use them where I can.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/20-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74217&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;tie rod ends&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The tie rod ends were replaced too. I simply use high quality auto parts store pieces. New tie rod ends means new boots and new zerks. They work well and there are no leaks!&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/21-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74218&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;tie rod sleeves&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Downstairs, the tie rod sleeves were swapped for a set of billet jobs \\u2013 this time from Hotchkiss.  They\\u2019re good quality and the layout makes for easy toe adjustments.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/22-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74219&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;front brake lines&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The front brake lines are all hand formed stainless steel. They make use of black Earl\\u2019s -3 AN tube nuts and sleeves along with Earl\\u2019s AN3 adapters where required.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/23-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74220&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;brake lines&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The stainless brake line that runs below the oil pan was covered with stainless steel spiral armour. It\\u2019s available from Classic Industries. I\\u2019m not anticipating a rod or two departing (!); the real purpose is to protect the line during engine swaps. Excuse the dust!&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/24.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74221&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Brake lines are held in place with reproduction brake line clips, again from the folks at Classic Industries. These are inexpensive parts that really beat the look and function of decades old hardware.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/25-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74222&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;roll control&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The Hurst Roll Control was mounted on the driver\\u2019s side inner fender and held in place by way of three AN fasteners.  On the backside, I used AN flat washers and nylock nuts.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/26-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74223&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;hood bumper&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The front adjustable hood bumpers were swapped for these clear zinc plated jobs from Classic Industries. You can also source them with a dark grey phosphate finish. In either case, the kits come complete with new rubber bumpers.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/27-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74224&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;side bumper&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The side bumpers for the hood were also sourced from Classic Industries. Again, these are inexpensive parts that everyone sees when the hood is open. And they\\u2019re easy to replace too!&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/07\\\/28-scaled.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;74225&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;50 Engine Compartment Detailing Tips Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;battery tray&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Even though the battery tray and clamp were repainted in this car, they were still ragged. The years take their toll \\u2013 especially when battery acid is present. I replaced them with these semi-gloss black powder coated reproduction pieces from Classic Industries.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;}]\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/ImageGallery\"><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>In our last issue, we began a look at engine compartment detailing. Basically, it\u2019s not a ho to do it series. Instead, it\u2019s an \u201cidea series\u201d. <\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":20,"featured_media":74211,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[5011,11,3470,4879],"tags":[3559,7968,281,41,461,321],"class_list":["post-74210","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chassis-suspension","category-how-tos","category-news","category-slideshow","tag-chassis","tag-detailing","tag-how-to","tag-news","tag-tech-tips-2","tag-wayne-scraba"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/1-1-scaled-e1596128076681.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-jiW","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/74210","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/20"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=74210"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/74210\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":74226,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/74210\/revisions\/74226"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/74211"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=74210"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=74210"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=74210"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}