{"id":65334,"date":"2019-09-19T09:57:29","date_gmt":"2019-09-19T16:57:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=65334"},"modified":"2019-09-26T12:02:51","modified_gmt":"2019-09-26T19:02:51","slug":"hurst-roll-control-set-up-and-install-part-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/hurst-roll-control-set-up-and-install-part-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"jetpack-slideshow-noscript robots-nocontent\">This slideshow requires JavaScript.<\/p><div id=\"gallery-65334-1-slideshow\" class=\"jetpack-slideshow-window jetpack-slideshow jetpack-slideshow-black\" data-trans=\"fade\" data-autostart=\"1\" data-gallery=\"[{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2019\\\/09\\\/Burnout-1-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;65335&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Click Here to Begin Slideshow\\n\\nI was most definitely in awe of Lee Shepherd (Reher-Morrison-Shepherd). Not only was he an incredibly skilled cylinder head porter, he was also one of the best (if not the best) drivers of the vintage Pro Stock era. I spent time watching him race whenever I could. What really made me pay attention was how fluid he was when performing a burnout. I was jealous! In fact, I think a lot of others were too.\\n\\nObviously, the car was equipped a Hurst Roll Control \\u0026#8211; no brainer! Then one day when I had close look at the Reher-Morrison Camaro (you could rub shoulders with the Pros back then), I spied something a wee bit different. It was a distinctive pressure gauge. A little more investigation determined it was a brake pressure gauge. This mechanical edge allowed Lee to pump the brakes to the same pressure each and every time. It also contributed to his ability to perform the same super-smooth burnout and staging ritual consistently. This setup also allows you to pre-stage, reset the line lock and then bump the car forward and complete the stage and\\\/or deep stage.\\n\\nBack to today (but keep the above in mind). Now, performing a burnout in a car isn\\u2019t that tough with an automatic. We\\u2019ve all done it: one foot on the brake and another on the gas. Sure, it raises havoc with the back brakes, but it still cooks the tires nicely. Doing the same thing with a stick is another matter. It\\u2019s next to impossible. And that\\u2019s where a line lock or roll control enters the equation. It\\u2019s basically the piece of the puzzle that allows you to perform a burnout seamlessly.\\n\\nIn terms of layout, the Hurst Roll Control (which happens to the be class of the field) consists of an electric valve plumbed into the brake line(s), a micro switch to operate the system and a red \\u0026#8220;On\\u0026#8221; warning lamp. When drag racing, the Roll Control is used during burnouts and staging. To set up the operation, the brake pedal is pumped a couple of times to ensure line pressure to the front brakes and with the brake pedal depressed, the roll control switch is engaged. At this point, the foot brake pedal is released. Pressure to the front brakes is maintained, but pressure to the rear brakes is released. This means the front brakes are locked. The warning lamp will glow once the roll control is engaged. You can put the car in the appropriate gear and, if it\\u2019s a stick, hit the gas and release the clutch. Or, with an automatic, simply nail the gas pedal. Obviously, you\\u2019re now performing a burnout. \\n\\nInstallation isn\\u2019t difficult, but given the fact it involves the brakes, take the installation seriously! Brakes are critical components! Here\\u0026#8217;s how it\\u0026#8217;s done:\\n\\nThe first step is to mount the \\u0026#8220;valve\\u0026#8221; in the engine compartment. It\\u2019s a good idea to pick a mount location relatively close to the master cylinder. This makes for easier plumbing. For most cars, the most obvious spot is on the driver side inner fender well. With a Hurst Roll Control, you\\u2019ll need three fasteners to mount it (Hurst includes three big sheet metal screws \\u2013 I prefer to use a trio of short AN bolts and lock nuts).\\n\\nAs far as plumbing is concerned, there isn\\u0026#8217;t one accepted method of hooking up the system. Factor in something like an aftermarket brake system with a prop valve and you can see the plumbing will differ from something like an early car with drum brakes on all four corners. With later cars that make use of a brake distribution valve, you must plumb it after the distribution valve, not before it. FYI, Hurst provides a series of diagrams showing the plumbing requirements for most common master cylinder arrangements.\\nDue to the fact that several lines will require fabrication, you\\u2019ll need a flaring tool along with a tubing bender. When hand building your own line, be sure to use seamless steel or seamless stainless tubing that is designed specifically for brake use. 3\\\/16-inch line is the preferred size.\\n\\nWhen plumbing a roll control, keep in mind most of the solenoid valves have the respective ports machined in pipe thread. If you\\u2019re using AN fittings (as shown in the accompanying photos), you\\u2019ll need AN to pipe thread adapters. When installing any pipe thread fitting (including adapter fittings), the pipe thread side requires Teflon tape or Teflon based thread sealant. You must also ensure that none of the sealant gets inside and contaminates the lines or the roll control valve.\\n\\nIn the photos that follow you\\u2019ll see one way of plumbing a roll control. Caution here! it may not work for your specific application. The traditional way of plumbing is to use one \\u201cout\\u201d line from the solenoid to a \\u201cT\\u201d and then back to each front brake line (this is the method Hurst recommends). Keep this in mind when plumbing your car.\\n\\nNext issue, we\\u2019ll wrap up the installation with the electrical part of the equation. It\\u2019s not difficult, but you can\\u2019t leave out any steps. Watch for it! In the meantime, check out the accompanying photos:&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2019\\\/09\\\/Burnout-2-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;65336&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1 1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Hurst\\u2019s Roll Control (or \\u201cLine Lock\\u201d) is a pretty simple device. Once engaged by way of a switch, the solenoid maintains brake fluid pressure at the front wheels on your car. The back brakes have no pressure, allowing you perform an effortless burnout.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2019\\\/09\\\/Burnout-3-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;65337&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;First things first. You have to mount the solenoid. Hurst\\u2019s setup with the billet heat sink body is far neater than many of the others.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2019\\\/09\\\/Burnout-4-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;65338&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1 3&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;There are a lot of potential roll control mounting locations in a car, but this spot on the inner fender is one of the best. It\\u2019s also one of the easiest to access. Three screws hold it in place, although AN bolts were used here.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2019\\\/09\\\/Burnout-5-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;65339&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1 4&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Plumbing is a bit more complex. Each brake combination can differ, but with a setup that makes use of a separate fluid distribution block, this is how it\\u2019s laid out. NHRA rules stipulate the Line Lock must be installed after the distribution valve. There\\u2019s more here, too: See the text for info on using a \\u201cT\\u201d in the system, as recommended by Hurst.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2019\\\/09\\\/Burnout-6-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;65340&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1 5&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;We won\\u2019t show you how we made up the plumbing (that\\u2019s another topic entirely!), but we can tell you the plumbing shown here consists of Earl\\u2019s 3\\\/16-inch stainless hard line along with Earl\\u2019s Ano-Tuff adapter fittings (more in the next photo) as well as Earl\\u2019s Ano-Tuff tube sleeves and tube nuts.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2019\\\/09\\\/Burnout-7-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;65341&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1 6&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Hurst Roll Control Set Up and Install Part 1&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The Hurst Line Lock solenoid is fitted with pipe threads. To go from pipe to AN (as shown here) adapter fittings are necessary. The pipe threads must be sealed. You can either use Teflon tape or, even easier, Teflon Paste. By the way, the extra port on the solenoid that\\u2019s blocked off here is a great location for a brake pressure gauge.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;}]\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/ImageGallery\"><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>Now, performing a burnout in a car isn\u2019t that tough with an automatic. Doing the same thing with a stick is another matter, and that\u2019s where a line lock or roll control enters the equation.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":20,"featured_media":65335,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[5009,3697,11,3470,4879],"tags":[318,114,4892,5701,4800,41,4888,461,321],"class_list":["post-65334","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brakes","category-galleries","category-how-tos","category-news","category-slideshow","tag-brakes","tag-burnout","tag-galleries","tag-how-to-do-a-burnout","tag-how-tos","tag-news","tag-slideshow","tag-tech-tips-2","tag-wayne-scraba"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Burnout-1-min.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-gZM","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65334","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/20"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=65334"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65334\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":65342,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65334\/revisions\/65342"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/65335"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=65334"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=65334"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=65334"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}