{"id":50493,"date":"2018-04-06T08:24:11","date_gmt":"2018-04-06T15:24:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=50493"},"modified":"2018-04-06T08:24:11","modified_gmt":"2018-04-06T15:24:11","slug":"holley-super-sniper-efi-install-the-basics","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/holley-super-sniper-efi-install-the-basics\/","title":{"rendered":"Holley Super Sniper EFI Install &#8211; The Basics"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"jetpack-slideshow-noscript robots-nocontent\">This slideshow requires JavaScript.<\/p><div id=\"gallery-50493-1-slideshow\" class=\"jetpack-slideshow-window jetpack-slideshow jetpack-slideshow-black\" data-trans=\"fade\" data-autostart=\"1\" data-gallery=\"[{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/550-5121866-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50497&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install \\u0026#8211; The Basics&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;All images courtesy Holley unless otherwise noted.\\n\\nAre you converting an older car into a super strip burner and like the old school look of a big four barrel carb sitting under the hood, but want the performance benefits of fuel injection? EFI systems that look like an old school Holley 4150 carb tend to top out their horsepower support at about 700 galloping ponies, but what if you\\u2019re boosting it and shooting for, say, around 1,200 horses? What then? Holley has just introduced an update to their Sniper EFI System. They call it the Super Sniper EFI and claim it will support up to 1,250 HP with forced induction and 700 normally aspirated.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Sniper-Labeled-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50517&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Introducing the Holley High-Horsepower Super Sniper 4150 EFI&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Holley came out with the Sniper EFI 4150 not long ago, and it made quite a splash. However, it continued to just miss the mark with serious racers because it was limited in the amount of horsepower it could support. This has been rectified in the newest iteration of the line. There are two versions, collectively \\u201cSniper EFI\\u2019s High-Horsepower Super Sniper 4150.\\u201d&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/550-512_v41866-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50495&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Strong and Stronger&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The first of these will support forced induction engines producing up to 1,250 HP and up to 700 in naturally aspirated engines. This unit is equipped with eight injectors that flow up to 100 pounds of fuel per hour. The baby brother will support up to 650 horses and has four 100 pound injectors. Basic installation for both is four wires \\u0026#8211; Batt+, Batt-, RPM and switched ignition, preferably dedicated. \\n\\nA single-stage progressive nitrous controller is also built into both versions, eliminating the added expense of an external nitrous controller, leaving you more money for speed upgrades. There\\u2019s also an eight-pin harness that gives more sensor functionality and programmable outputs and inputs than earlier standard Sniper EFI systems. They\\u2019re also compatible with both wet and dry nitrous systems.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Silver-Black-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50516&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Versatility&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;These are direct replacement conversions for the majority four barrel carb intakes with no manifold swap required. Holly says \\u201cthe high-horsepower Super Sniper 4150 is equally suitable for draw-through (Roots-style blowers) and blow-through (Paxton blowers and turbochargers) forced-induction engines.\\u201d There\\u2019s an easy to use handheld controller that Holley says is user-friendly and controls all operations of the EFI including boost. It\\u2019s fully programmable for the air\\\/fuel curve you want. There\\u2019s also an Advanced boost control \\u201cmodule\\u201d that can be downloaded to give you boost vs time and boost vs RPM.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Tool1-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50519&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Assemble Your Tools&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Don\\u2019t be cheap with the stripper\\\/crimper you use. \\n\\nYou really won\\u2019t need many other tools beyond the flat screwdriver, half inch socket or wrench, and something for the fuel line that\\u2019s needed for working on a carburetor for this conversion\\\/installation. These are:\\n\\u2022\\t#2 Phillips screwdriver\\n\\u2022\\tWrench set\\n\\u2022\\tWire stripper\\\/crimper\\n\\u2022\\tAllen wrench set\\n\\u2022\\t7\\\/8 inch stepper bit or 3\\\/4 inch drill bit\\n\\u2022\\tDrill and bit set\\n\\u2022\\tDigital multimeter\\n\\nNOTE: Before Starting This Upgrade\\n\\nDisconnect the battery. Charge the battery if not fully charged.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/EFI-Pump-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50506&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;The Right Pump&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Your car\\u2019s fuel and exhaust systems have to support the new EFI being installed. Chances are, if you\\u2019re upgrading from a carburetor, you\\u2019re going to need to at least upgrade your fuel pump to an electric one that will supply a constant 60 PSI no matter what load you\\u2019re putting it under. The new pump should be installed in the fuel tank to help cool it, or if that can\\u2019t be done, no more than three feet from it. There should also be pre- and post-filters installed before and after the pump.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/526-4v2-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50494&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Stay Up to Date&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;It\\u2019s highly recommended that you update your fuel system prior to performing this installation. Old fuel line won\\u2019t handle the pressures that EFI needs.\\n\\nCheck the fuel system thoroughly. Any cracked rubber hosing should be replaced, as well as any hard line showing rust. I would recommend running half inch hard line along the frame and then using 3\\\/8 inch return and \\u00bd inch supply hoses with 6- and 8-AN fittings from Earl\\u0026#8217;s, or something similar. \\n\\nYou also need to make sure you\\u2019ve got an O2 sensor bung in the exhaust somewhere about three to five inches after one bank\\u2019s cylinders come together, before any catalytic converter(s) and at least ten inches before the exhaust outlet. The kit comes with a bung you clamp onto the exhaust, but one that\\u2019s properly welded is much better. Also, it must be installed so that the sensor is no less than 10 degrees above the horizontal to protect it from damage from condensation in the pipe.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Vacuum-Labeling-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50520&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Remove the Old Carburetor or EFI Unit&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Image by Mike Aguilar\\n\\nIf you\\u2019re building a crate engine, you can skip this step unless it has a carb or EFI installed already. Label and remove the throttle and kickdown (if equipped) cables along with their mounting stubs on the linkage. Next, label and remove all vacuum lines. If you\\u2019re replacing a carburetor with an electric choke, tape off the connector for it and secure it to the wiring loom somewhere out of the way. \\n\\nDisconnect the fuel hardline from the tank at the fuel pump. This requires either a1\\\/2 inch or 9\\\/16 inch line wrench. I would remove the fuel pump and slap a block-off plate over the opening because a mechanical fuel pump robs a couple HP at higher RPM, but you can just bypass it if you want.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Carb-Removal-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50499&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Remove the Carb&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Disconnect the fuel supply at the carburetor\\\/EFI. Have a rag handy to catch any spillage. Using a \\u00bd-inch wrench or socket, remove the four carburetor hold-down bolts , making note of the linkage bracket locations, if they are secured to the base. Make sure the mating surface is perfectly clean.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/550-512_v51866-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50496&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Mounting the Super Sniper On Top of a Blower?&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;This step is only for those installing their Super Sniper EFI on top of a draw-through or Roots-style blower. If you\\u2019ll be using a Paxton blower\\\/supercharger or a turbo, skip ahead to the next step. There\\u2019s a 1\\\/16 inch NPT plug in the front side of the Super Sniper EFI that needs to be removed and replaced with the barbed nipple that\\u2019s included with the kit.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Boost-Mods-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50498&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Deal With the Set Screws&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Next, thread the 10-32 set screw \\u0026#8211; also included \\u0026#8211; into the machined hole in the bottom of the unit. You should use a small pointed punch to secure this set screw by peening it in three places around its circumference.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Carb-Studs-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50500&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Mount the Super Sniper EFI Unit&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Make sure the mounting studs are long enough and change as needed. I use a stud puller to remove them, but you can counter-lock two nuts against each other and turn the bottom one to remove them. Slide the new gasket over the studs, followed by the Super Sniper EFI unit.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Linkage-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50510&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Torque it Down&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Run the \\u00bd-inch nuts down by hand, remembering to replace any brackets that came off when the carburetor was removed. Torque these down to about 30-40 inch-pounds. Connect the throttle\\\/kickdown linkage in the locations indicated above. Check the pedal for full and unimpeded motion.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Vacuum-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50521&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Make Fuel and Vacuum Connections&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Attach the return line to the return port on the EFI unit. Pick one of the three inlet ports and attach the fuel supply line, installing plugs in the unused inlets as needed. If you\\u2019re installing it atop a blower, connect a vacuum line from the 1\\\/16 inch barbed inlet to the corresponding port on the intake manifold below the blower. If equipped, connect the vacuum advance (3\\\/16 inch ported vacuum) and power brake hoses. Be sure to plug any unused ports or hoses.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Fuel-1-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50507&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Important Note!&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;On boosted applications, an external pressure regulator must be used, and the onboard regulator and the input port on the same side must be plugged. The two ports on the front of the EFI body must be used for supply and outlet to the regulator. Which side you choose for inlet and outlet is up to you.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Main-Power-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50511&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Route Wiring and Make Connections&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Route the black and red wires to the battery, avoiding any pinch points and the exhaust. Use electrical tape, wire looms or wire ties to make a cleaner installation. Install blue or yellow #10 ring terminals on them and set them aside for now. If the battery terminals on the wires are OEM or molded, I would replace them with a set of quick-connect terminals that allow for the easy connection of accessories and for easy disconnection and reconnection of the battery when working on the car.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Coil-Neg-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50502&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Match the Wires&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Locate the connector harness that has the green and purple wires twisted together and a lone yellow wire. Connect this yellow wire to the coil negative either by splicing into the HEI connector or using a blue #10 ring terminal at the coil negative. Now locate the two-wire connector with the white and brown wires, connecting the brown wire to the tach lead. If you route this directly to the tach, make sure the wire goes through a hole with a grommet.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Ignition-Switch-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50508&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Connect the Power Source&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The red and white (or pink) wire needs to be connected to a relatively clean switched power source that has power both when running and when starting. As the main switched power for the unit, I would tap into an appropriate wire off the ignition switch under the dash and run it to a relay under the hood, again through a grommet, and connect the red and white wire to the relay\\u2019s output. The relay can get power through a fused 12-gauge wire run directly to the battery. It can also be grounded directly to the battery.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/CD-Ignition-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50501&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;CD-Ignition-min&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;If you\\u2019re using a CD box, such as an MSD 6AL, connect the purple ignition adapter wire from it to the purple wire in the two-wire harness. The yellow wire isn\\u2019t used. However, the brown wire still goes to the tach lead.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Relay-Wiiring-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50514&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Relay Wiring&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Diagram by Mike Aguilar\\n\\nIf you\\u2019ve had to install a new electric fuel pump, you\\u2019re going to need to run wiring to it. Run power from the pump to a new relay, making sure to use a fuse right after the relay. The pump can be grounded to the chassis. The blue wire in the seven-pin connector (with the ignition, power, and ground wires) will go to the switch input on the relay (relay pin 87 in image above).&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Controller-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50503&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Connect the Touchscreen Controller&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The touchscreen controller can be connected for initial startup ad tuning only, or it can be mounted in the car for easy access. If you choose to mount it inside, you need to route the controller wiring harness through an opening in the firewall\\\/bulkhead with a grommet. Make sure there are no obstructions that can be drilled into on either side before drilling. Sliding the grommet over the connector before putting the grommet into the firewall opening will let you drill a small hole for this.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/CTS-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50504&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Install the Sensors&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The Holley Super Sniper High Performance EFI kit comes with a coolant temperature sensor and an O2 sensor, both of which must be used for the EFI to work properly. The temperature sensor needs to be installed anywhere but in the thermostat housing, in the intake, head or block. The radiator can be used as a last resort.\\n\\nSomewhat strangely, the kit only comes with one O2 sensor instead of two. It only needs to be installed to monitor one bank, but as mentioned, it must be about two to three inches past where the individual pipes collect, before any catalytic converter, and at least ten inches before the outlet. If you\\u2019re installing aftermarket headers and you mentioned they\\u2019d be going on an EFI engine, at least one already has an O2 sensor bung welded in. Install the sensor there, preferably using anti-seize compound, and plug the other one if needed.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/O2-Sensor-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50512&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;The O2 Sensor&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;If you don\\u2019t have an O2 bung ready for you, you can mark and drill a 3\\\/4 inch hole in one of the exhaust pipes in the aforementioned location and use the bung clamp supplied. Deburr the hole before placing the gasket and the casting on the pipe. Put anti-seize on the clamp bolts and securely tighten the clamps around the exhaust pipe. Securely install the Oxygen sensor and route the wires to keep away from the exhaust and pinch points to connect the O2 sensor connector from the EFI.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Wizard-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50522&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Initial Calibration in Basic Configuration&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;This completes the basic installation of the Holley Sniper EFI 4150 Super Sniper 1250\\\/650 kit. Nothing else is needed unless you want to study up and tap the advanced potentials of the unit (ie fan controls, nitrous solenoids, AC kill, etc.) Connect the battery and make sure the connections are clean and secure. \\u00acTurn the key to the run positon without starting it and run the Wizard (bottom right) on the controller as follows:\\n\\u2022\\tSelect the proper Sniper EFI system and press Next.\\n\\u2022\\tSelect the correct number of cylinders and press Next.\\n\\u2022\\tChoose your engine size using the slider bar and press Next.\\n\\u2022\\tSlide the bar to your desired HOT (once the coolant reaches 160\\u00b0) idle speed and press Next.\\n\\u2022\\tChoose the type (stock or mild, street\\\/mild strip, race) and press Next.\\n\\u2022\\tSelect the type of ignition system you\\u2019ve got and press Next.\\n\\u2022\\tSelect what type of power adder, if any, you\\u2019ve got (nitrous, turbo, supercharger\\\/blower, none) and press Next.\\n\\u2022\\tMove the slider to choose the air-fuel ratio (AFR) at wide open throttle without boost and press Next. Skip if un-boosted. \\n\\u2022\\tSet the desired AFR Offset for each seven pounds of boost and press Next. Skip if naturally-aspirated. \\n\\u2022\\tPress Start to send the calibration file to the ECU on the EFI unit.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Initial-Startup-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50509&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Verify All Sensors Are Working Properly Prior to Initial Startup&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Turn the key off and back on to reboot the system. Once the touchscreen boots, you should hear the fuel pump pre-pressurize for five seconds and turn off. Check for fuel leaks and correct as needed. Bring up the Monitor function from the Home screen and then select the Monitors screen. Select the Initial Startup icon from the screen that opens. You should see six sensors:\\n\\u2022\\tEngine RPM-Should show \\u201cStall\\u201d with engine off.\\n\\u2022\\tTPS-Throttle Position Sensor-Should read zero with engine off. Watch it move as you slowly depress the throttle pedal. If not reading at least 85% at WOT, check linkage for binding. \\n\\u2022\\tMAP-Manifold air pressure. At normal elevations this should read around 95-102. Numbers as low as 75 could be normal for higher elevations. \\n\\u2022\\tCTS-Coolant Temperature Sensor\\n\\u2022\\tIAC- Position Two to ten percent is normal when hot once calibrated.\\n\\u2022\\tBattery-This will read actually battery voltage and should be at least 12 volts.\\nAny issues with these initial readings need to fixed before moving forward.\\n\\nAnd now\\u0026#8230; Crank that puppy up!\\n\\nCrank the engine while watching the controller. You see the display switch to \\u201cSyncing\\u201d until showing the RPM signal. The engine should fire and come to an idle. If not, you\\u2019ll need to figure out why using the basics and Super Sniper online troubleshooting guide. If the engine can\\u2019t get to a decent idle, adjust the idle speed screw accordingly. Let the engine warm up as you check for oil, coolant and fuel leaks front to rear.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Status-Board-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50518&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;After Startup\\\/Warmup Health Check&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Once the engine is running at the correct RPM and has reached the operating temperature range, you need to use the handheld controller to make sure everything\\u2019s hunky-dory. Select \\u201cMulti Gauge\\u201d from the \\u201cMonitor screen. Select the \\u201cAir\\\/Fuel Ratio\\u201d icon next. You\\u2019ll see the following:\\n\\u2022\\tAFR,AF-This is the actual AFR that the O2 sensor is reading. It should be close to the next reading, the target AFR. \\n\\u2022\\tTarget Air\\\/Fuel Ratio-This is selected by the ECU based upon a number of operating variables and will vary. \\n\\u2022\\tCoolant Enr. %- This is how much \\u201cchoke\\u201d or enrichment the EDU is adding and is opposite what one would think: 100% means zero artificial enrichment is being added.\\n\\u2022\\tCL Status-This tells you if the system is running in \\u201cOpen\\u201d or \\u201cClosed\\u201d loop. Open loop is basically \\u201cLimp Home Mode\\u201d where no control over the AFR is being maintained, the engine is simply maintained running until the key is turned off. Closed Loop is indicated by CloseLp. \\n\\u2022\\tCL Comp, % -This shows how much the computer is varying fuel flow during Closed Loop operation. In Open Loop this will read \\u201c0.\\u201d\\n\\u2022\\tLearn Status-If \\u201cSelf-Tuning\\u201d is enabled (it is by default) this should read \\u201cLearng\\u201d once the system enters Closed Loop operation. Until then it will read \\u201cNoLearn.\\u201d\\n\\u2022\\tCurrent Learn, %-This doesn\\u2019t show how much learning the ECU has done, but also shows how much the ECU is controlling the flow of fuel as compared to the base fuel map. You might see between -20% and 20%. Negative numbers indicate the Super Sniper is reducing the amount of fuel as compared to the base map. \\n\\u2022\\tInj. PW, msec-This number will vary wildly as you drive and indicates the amount of time the injector is open in milliseconds. \\n\\u2022\\tRPM, rpm-Engine RPM. Check this against your tach.\\n\\u2022\\tFuel Flo, lb\\\/hr-This will also vary wildly as you drive (but may also stabilize if you maintain a constant speed) and shows the instantaneous amount of fuel is going into the engine as you drive. The reading is in pounds per hour.\\n\\nNote: Make sure all of the above readings are within operating parameters before heading off on your initial test\\\/learning drive. \\nNote: ECU won\\u2019t go into \\u201cLearn Mode\\u201d until \\u201cCoolant Enr. %\\u201d reaches 100% or zero enrichment.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Setting-Idle-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50515&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Idle Calibration&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Now you need to set the idle and throttle plate. Go back to the Initial Startup gauge screen and look at the IAC Position. If it reads between two and ten percent, all\\u2019s good. If not, make sure the parking break is set, then put the transmission in neutral and adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position is corrected. Make sure the TPS value doesn\\u2019t change as you do this. If it does change, shut the engine off, restart it and get back to this stage. Repeat this until the desired reading is achieved.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Drive-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50505&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;First Drive&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Once the \\u201cin the garage or driveway\\u201d stuff is done, head out for a leisurely drive to finish the learning process.\\nScreenshot\\n\\nBy now your new Holley Super Sniper High Performance EFI has almost finished the learning process at idle. Now it\\u2019s time for you to teach it how to work while you\\u2019re driving. Holley recommends that you have someone drive for you while you monitor the health of your engine and the tune. The self-learn process needs you to drive around. \\n\\nHowever, you need to drive around city streets for a bit, while someone monitors the controller and how far along in the learning process it is by keeping an eye on the \\u201cCL Comp\\u201d value mentioned above. Once it reaches zero, move on to the next step. \\n\\nYou\\u2019ll start by letting it idle for a few minutes, then slowly accelerate down the street and come to a stop, doing this a few times. Then turn on the air conditioner for a bit. Next, hit the freeway and just drive with the flow. Once that\\u2019s been learned, it\\u2019s time for what we came here for: Wide Open Throttle runs! Don\\u2019t get in trouble though.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/04\\\/Race-It-min.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;50513&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Race It!&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Holley Super Sniper EFI Install - The Basics&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Once all the basic self-learning is done, take it to the track and see how much improvement you got.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;}]\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/ImageGallery\"><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>Are you converting an older car into a super strip burner and like the old school look of a big four barrel carb sitting under the hood, but want the performance benefits of fuel injection?<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":28,"featured_media":50497,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[5028,3697,11,3470,4879],"tags":[716,1411,4892,15,5569,281,1074,41,4888],"class_list":["post-50493","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fuel-delivery","category-galleries","category-how-tos","category-news","category-slideshow","tag-carburetor","tag-efi","tag-galleries","tag-holley","tag-holley-sniper","tag-how-to","tag-mike-aguilar","tag-news","tag-slideshow"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/550-5121866-min.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-d8p","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/50493","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/28"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=50493"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/50493\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":50523,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/50493\/revisions\/50523"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/50497"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=50493"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=50493"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=50493"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}