{"id":43498,"date":"2017-09-05T09:19:18","date_gmt":"2017-09-05T16:19:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=43498"},"modified":"2017-09-05T09:19:18","modified_gmt":"2017-09-05T16:19:18","slug":"overcoming-rust-during-a-restoration","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/overcoming-rust-during-a-restoration\/","title":{"rendered":"Overcoming Rust During a Restoration"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"jetpack-slideshow-noscript robots-nocontent\">This slideshow requires JavaScript.<\/p><div id=\"gallery-43498-1-slideshow\" class=\"jetpack-slideshow-window jetpack-slideshow jetpack-slideshow-black\" data-trans=\"fade\" data-autostart=\"1\" data-gallery=\"[{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Lead-Art.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43504&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Click Here to Begin Slideshow\\n\\nRust is the enemy of everyone restoring an older car. This is especially true for cars that spent significant time in areas where the roads are salted in the winter. If you\\u2019re lucky, it\\u2019s only surface rust. The rust you\\u2019re most likely to encounter on cars from the Seventies and earlier is more than that, though. This is where you\\u2019re going to have to decide whether you\\u2019re going to treat the rust or replace the section that\\u2019s rotted too badly to treat. I\\u2019m going to look at how to see how bad the rust is and then getting the body panel\\\/floorpan\\\/etc.to where it\\u2019s not going to rust anymore.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Rust-Stripper-Tool.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43513&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Rust-Stripper-Tool&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;You\\u2019ve got to remove the surface scale and road grime before you can see what type of rust you have and decide what restoration options you have available. This wire wheel rust chipper is an excellent tool for this purpose.\\n\\nThere are three basic types of rust: flash or surface rust, rust which goes beyond the surface and rust that\\u2019s eaten clear through the metal. Surface rust can be removed with either a wire brush or sandpaper. Rust that\\u2019s eaten clear through can be obvious due to holes in the metal, or not so obvious until you test it.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Trunk-Shot.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43514&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Testing the Surface&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;If you can push a finger or a screw through the rusted section, it\\u2019s been eaten clear through and will need to be replaced. If you only scratch the metal with a tool, you can treat it to return it to a condition where you can paint it and know it won\\u2019t continue to rust.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Door-Rocker-Panel.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43502&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Panels Rusted Clear Through&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Panels which are rusted clear through come in two flavors. Really bad panels will have holes that are obviously rusted through. Even if the rust is obvious, only testing it will tell you if it\\u2019s rusted clear through or if there\\u2019s still enough of the base metal to work with to treat the panel.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/When-to-Cut-Replace.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43515&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Testing with Tools&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Obviously, if you can push your finger through a supposedly solid metal panel, rust has destroyed the metal. However, if the panel is questionable, I like to use a screwdriver or nail. You can have a panel that\\u2019s really rusted clear through but doesn\\u2019t break when you push at it with your fingers. It only breaks when you use a tool. You\\u2019re going to need to figure out where the rust ends and weld in a new piece to fix the panel.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Jeep-Rust.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43503&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Rust Encapsulation Versus Rust Conversion&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;You\\u2019ve got two options for dealing with rust that\\u2019s more than surface rust but isn\\u2019t rusted through. Rust that\\u2019s just a bit worse than surface rust but hasn\\u2019t started to really weaken the whole panel\\u2019s integrity can be encapsulated.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Rusted-Frame-Rail-for-Encapsulation.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43511&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Candidates for Rust Encapsulation&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;As an example, you\\u2019ve already gone from front to rear on the rear quarter panel once or twice with a wire wheel, and there\\u2019s still a sizable chunk that\\u2019s rusty but still solid. This is a perfect example of when you\\u2019d want to use a rust encapsulator, because the panel isn\\u2019t completely rusted through. The encapsulator will deprive the rust of oxygen and stop the process of oxidation.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Rust-Encapsulator-with-Primer.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43512&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Primer&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Rust conversion is used when the rusted panel still has some rigidity but is rusted clear through. It\\u2019s not going to be show quality, but a good rust converter will at least give you a surface that can be primed and sanded smooth and is then ready to accept paint and look decent. Unless you plan to abuse the vehicle, panels and frame rails where a rust converter has been used should stand up to regular use for years.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Rust-Converter-Encapsulator-Candidate.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43509&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;You Can Always Convert but Not Always Encapsulate&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Rust conversion and encapsulation are quite similar in usage and application (which we\\u2019ll cover in a bit), but they\\u2019re not interchangeable. A rust converter is for when the panel\\u2019s rust has almost reached the point you can punch through it. It doesn\\u2019t matter how bad the panel is \\u0026#8211; as long as it isn\\u2019t weakened to the point you can punch through it, it can be treated with a high quality rust converter.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Rotten-Windshield-Channel.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43507&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Limited Applications&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;On the other hand, rust encapsulator can only be used when surface rust can\\u2019t be removed with a couple quick swipes with a wire wheel. Rust encapsulation works best for surface rust that\\u2019s spread over a large area.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Candidate-for-Both.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43501&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Rust Converter Needs Rust to Work&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;It may sound obvious that rust encapsulation doesn\\u2019t work on metal this isn\\u2019t rusted, but it goes further than that. You\\u2019d think that un-rusted sections would be protected against rust encroachment if rust converter gets on them. That\\u2019s not the case. In fact, it\\u2019s usually recommended to apply the rust converter twice and allow it to cure, then apply encapsulator over the whole panel to protect it from rusting in the future. The panel can then be sanded smooth and have a rust-preventing primer and paint applied.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Rust-Converter-Candidate.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43510&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;No, I Mean Rust Converter Really Needs Rust to Work&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Check out the picture above. Current logic has this frame section being rusted beyond hope. Not true. This is exactly what rust converter was designed to tackle. Get rid of the biggest pieces of surface rust and liberally coat it a couple times with a good rust converter. You can then sand the section, apply encapsulator over the whole area, sand it again and then paint it as usual. To convert every bit of the rust to something that\\u2019s not going to rust anymore, you may need to apply three or four coats to really badly rusted pieces.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Windshield-Channel.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43516&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Greater Difficulty in Application&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Rust converter needing basically pure rust to work means that it\\u2019s actually more difficult to apply than rust encapsulator. Rust conversion products require that you remove every bit of paint from rusted surfaces. You\\u2019ve also got to treat bare metal that\\u2019s been exposed to it, or flash rusting might occur. Encapsulator can be applied to bare metal and paint without worry.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/2014_Victorian_Hot_Rod_Show_12152116175.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43499&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Restorers are of Mixed Opinions&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;If you\\u2019re working on a car that\\u2019s going to end up like this one, you should probably only worry about using the rust encapsulator, and even then only when the rust is difficult to remove completely, quickly and easily. Otherwise it should be cut out and replaced.\\nImage credit: Wikimedia Commons\\n\\nI spoke with a number of different restoration specialists and their opinion is divided. A few of them don\\u2019t believe in conversion. These guys feel that if the piece, especially a frame, is beyond encapsulating, it needs to be replaced. Most of these are guys who can point to trophies on the walls and shelves of their offices, showing their work has received many types of awards. Two of these guys convert older cars for NASCAR and NHRA racing and feel that converted rust also doesn\\u2019t give enough strength to the metal structurally.\\n\\nEveryone was in agreement that if you\\u2019re simply performing repairs to give you something reliable to get around town and enjoy, encapsulation and conversion are viable options for overcoming even fairly serious rust on frames and subframes. It\\u2019s not going to cut it if you\\u2019re looking to win shows or race near pro levels. Rust encapsulation and conversion are great for the classic muscle restoration where you\\u2019ll be taking it out to cruises and maybe for meet-and-greets.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Mud-It.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43505&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Sometimes You Just Have to Replace the Rusted Body Panel&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Rust encapsulation and conversion are great, but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and replace the body panel or section. The rust may not look all that bad; it may not even be extensive. Where it\\u2019s located might be the problem.\\n\\nI would think twice if you\\u2019ve got bad rust where windows are located. This is just asking for structural weakness and water leaks. Areas around bolt and screw holes where the panels or body trim attach are also prime candidates for either welding in replacement sections from junkyard pieces or complete panel replacement with something like New Old Stock (NOS) components.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Brush-Application.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43500&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Easy Application for Both&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Most rust converters and encapsulator products give you three options to apply them. You can buy a spray can and apply it like spray paint. This is great when you\\u2019ve got a whole panel to treat and don\\u2019t care that much about overspray.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/09\\\/Rattle-Can-Application.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;43506&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Bulk Application&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Overcoming Rust During a Restoration&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Most rust converters and encapsulator products give you three options to apply them. You can buy a spray can and apply it like spray paint. This is great when you\\u2019ve got a whole panel to treat and don\\u2019t care that much about overspray.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;}]\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/ImageGallery\"><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>There are three basic types of rust: flash or surface rust, rust which goes beyond the surface and rust that\u2019s eaten clear through the metal.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":28,"featured_media":43504,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[5007,3697,11,3470,4879],"tags":[2744,4892,4800,1074,41,5514,4888],"class_list":["post-43498","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-body","category-galleries","category-how-tos","category-news","category-slideshow","tag-body","tag-galleries","tag-how-tos","tag-mike-aguilar","tag-news","tag-rust","tag-slideshow"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Lead-Art.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-bjA","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/43498","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/28"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=43498"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/43498\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":43517,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/43498\/revisions\/43517"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/43504"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=43498"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=43498"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=43498"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}