{"id":41146,"date":"2017-06-22T10:16:14","date_gmt":"2017-06-22T17:16:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=41146"},"modified":"2017-06-22T10:16:14","modified_gmt":"2017-06-22T17:16:14","slug":"how-to-install-the-64-70-ridetech-4-link","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/how-to-install-the-64-70-ridetech-4-link\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"jetpack-slideshow-noscript robots-nocontent\">This slideshow requires JavaScript.<\/p><div id=\"gallery-41146-1-slideshow\" class=\"jetpack-slideshow-window jetpack-slideshow jetpack-slideshow-black\" data-trans=\"fade\" data-autostart=\"1\" data-gallery=\"[{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Lead-Art-4.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41165&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Click Here to Begin Slideshow\\n\\nUp until the mid-70s to the mid-80s, leafspring rear suspensions were where it was at for muscle cars. Problem is, leafsprings have serious drawbacks. Stick a big, torquey motor under the hood with a strong transmission and, no matter how much money you put into the rear suspension, you\\u2019re still going to have the drawbacks of a leafsprung rear end.\\n\\nAll that engine and trans money was spent with one reason in mind: Getting down the track as quickly as possible. The problem is that leafsprings tend to want to unload when you tromp on the pedal at the light; they don\\u2019t want to allow every bit of torque being sent to your rear wheels to be transferred to the ground. They want to bend and induce wheel hop. You can almost completely eliminate wheel hop by removing those leafsprings and installing a quality 4-link rear end like Ridetech\\u2019s \\u201cBolt-On\\u201d (some welding required) 4-Link kit. The major drawback of this kit is that you have to buy the Ridetech Shockwaves or coilovers separately.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/ARM_69-530_FRNT_MAIN_3-1.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41149&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Some Welding Required&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;You will need a hammer to make sure the cradle is properly installed. A regular hammer with a metal head will damage the cradle, so it\\u2019s recommended that you use a dead blow hammer like this one.\\nImage credit: Armstrong Tools\\n\\nRideTech calls their 4-Link Rear Suspension package for the 1964 \\u00bd to 1970 Mustang a bolt-on kit. However, that isn\\u2019t completely true. There are four tabs that will have to be welded onto to your axle tubes\\\/rear end housing. Everything else does just bolt on. Other than a decent quality welder, most tools you\\u2019ll need for this project are fairly commonplace.\\n\\u2022\\tJack and jack stands (preferably four, but you can get away with two)\\n\\u2022\\tDrill\\n\\u2022\\tThree drill bits up to \\u00bd inch or a Unibit\\\/stepper bit\\n\\u2022\\tSocket set with ratchet and extensions\\n\\u2022\\tWrench set\\n\\u2022\\tLug wrench\\n\\u2022\\tTorque wrench\\n\\u2022\\tImpact gun with lug nut socket (Recommended but not required)\\n\\u2022\\tImpact sockets (if using an impact gun)\\n\\u2022\\tTwo to four large C-clamps\\n\\u2022\\tDead blow hammer\\n\\u2022\\tSandpaper or wire wheel or other abrasive\\n\\u2022\\tMarking pen&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Raise-the-Rear.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41173&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Lift the Rear End and Remove the Wheels&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Be sure the location you choose for this project is a level surface and not your driveway.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Removing-Exhaust.jpg.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41177&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Remove the Exhaust and Lower the Fuel and Brake Lines Out of the Way&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The exhaust, brake and fuel lines will get in your way during the installation, so you\\u2019ll need to get them out of your way. The brake and fuel lines don\\u2019t have to be disconnected, they just need to have their brackets\\\/clips removed; then, carefully push them out of your way.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Shock-Removal.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41180&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Remove the Shock Absorbers&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;You\\u2018ll be installing new shocks, so the old ones need to go. This kit only works with Ridetech\\u2019s Airwave shocks or coilovers.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Driveshaft.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41152&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Drop the Driveshaft&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The driveshaft should be dropped before you remove the leafsprings, because sometimes the nuts on the U-bolts need a little \\u201cconvincing\\u201d to break loose, and you don\\u2019t want the rear end shifting around on you.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Removing-the-Spring-Perches.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41178&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Remove the Leafsprings&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Leafspring removal is a two-step procedure for both sides. First to come off are the two spring perches\\\/lower shock mount brackets, followed by the removal of the leafsprings themselves. Sometimes a clip that holds the parking brake cable can be found on the leafspring in front of the axle. This will need to be popped off before the springs can come out.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Leafspring-Removal.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41166&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Put the Leafsprings Aside&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;You won\\u2019t need the leafsprings after this installation. I would save them, along with the stock spring perches, just In case you decide to sell the car or bring it back to stock condition.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Rear-End-Removal.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41174&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Drop the Rear End Housing&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Once the rear end is out, I recommend spraying it down thoroughly with a degreaser or other cleaning agent. Pay special attention to the three to five inches on either side of the center section, because you\\u2019ll be welding there a little later.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Remove-Factory-Pinion-Snubber.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41176&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Remove the Factory Pinion Snubber&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The factory pinion snubber is right where the front center of the cradle needs to be bolted up, so it has to go. I would recommend taking the time right now to give the area back here a good and thorough cleaning and then a few coats of primer and paint. Your car may or may not have two holes in the plate as shown in the image above. Most won\\u2019t.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Lift-Cradle-into-Place-Mark.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41167&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Lift Cradle into Place and Mark and Drill&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Loosely thread the two bolts through the holes in the cradle and into the bolt holes where the pinion snubber was. Use four large C-clamps to secure the cradle in place and then smack it to make sure it is properly seated on the frame rails. Next, mark the locations for the seven pairs of holes on the bottoms of the frame rails, plus the two sets of three in the sides of the frame rails up front.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Insert-the-U-Bolts.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41161&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Drop the U-Bolts into the Frame Rails&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Make sure your fingers are clean and dry when doing this, or the U-bolts might slip and fall or get stuck inside the frame rails.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Lift-the-Cradle-Back-into-Place-Secure.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41168&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Lift the Cradle Back Into Place and Secure&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Go easy on this step. Don\\u2019t just slam the cradle back up under the car or you\\u2019re going to lose at least one of the U-bolts. Carefully guide the cradle over those bolts and be quick about getting the Nylocs on them as they slide into their holes in the cradle. Don\\u2019t forget flat and lock washers on each. The 3\\\/8 inch self-tapping bolts go into the 5\\\/16 inch holes you drilled in the sides of the frame rails.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Install-Axle-Mounts.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41162&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Install the New Axle Mounts&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;This can be done with the rear end unit under the car or on a work bench.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Install-Shock-Mounts.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41163&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Install the New Lower Shock Mounts&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Be sure to start off by installing these in the two lowest holes in the bracket. You can adjust them later if you need to.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Lower-Link-Installation.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41169&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Install the Lower Links&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;There are three bolts that can be used to install the lower links, depending on which year Mustang you\\u2019ve got. All model years use the 5\\\/8 X 2 \\u00be inch bolts with the thin 5\\\/8 inch Nylocs on the axle mounts, whereas 64-67 Mustangs need to use the \\u00bd X 6 inch bolts and Nylocs and 68-70 Mustangs need the \\u00bd X 4 \\u00bd inch bolts and Nylocs.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Reinstall-Driveshaft.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41175&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Reinstall the Driveshaft&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;\\u2018Pinion angle\\u2019 describes the angle between the driveshaft and the pinion.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Set-Pinion-Angle.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41179&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Set Ride Height and Adjust the Pinion Angle&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Image credit: RideTech\\n\\nRide height should leave about 4 \\u00bd inches between the bottom of the frame rail and the top of the axle housing. It\\u2019s recommended to cut two pieces of wood or steel, sit them on top of the axle and then raise the whole rear end until these dowels are firmly sandwiched between the axle housing and frame rails.\\nThis image oversimplifies pinion angle greatly. It shows too much of an offset between the height of the transmission output shaft and the differential, which creates too much of an angle on the U-joints to work properly. The angle between the driveshaft and the pinion should be no more than ten degrees (10\\u00ba), with between zero to five degrees considered ideal.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Assemble-Upper-Link-Jig.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41151&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Prep for Installation of the Upper Links&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Leave the bolt on the differential tabs loose for now.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Prep-Tabs-for-Welding.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41172&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Take Note&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Note the 4 \\u00bd inch long piece of all-thread in the image being used to maintain ride height as well as pinion angle. Note it is welded to both the bottom of the frame rail and the top of the axle tube.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Install-Upper-Link-Bars.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41164&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Install the Upper Links&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Don\\u2019t tighten the jam nuts on the links just yet. You still have to do a final setting of the pinion angle.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Assemble-Install-Coilovers.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41150&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Assemble and Install the Coilovers&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;The designed ride height of the Ridetech Coilovers\\\/Shockwaves is 14 \\u00bd inches from the center of the upper mounting lug to the center of the lower mounting lug.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Pinion-Down-Angle.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41170&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Setting Final Pinion Angle #1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Pinion-Up-Angle.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41171&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Setting Final Pinion Angle #2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Ideal-Pinion-Angle.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41160&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Setting Final Pinion Angle #3&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Gallery-1-1.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41153&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Gallery Image 1&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Gallery-2.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41154&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Gallery Image 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Gallery-3.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41155&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Gallery Image 3&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Gallery-4.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41156&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Gallery Image 4&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Gallery-5.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41157&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Gallery Image 5&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Gallery-6.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41158&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Gallery Image 6&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/06\\\/Gallery-7.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;41159&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Gallery Image 7&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;How to Install the 64-70 RideTech 4-Link&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;}]\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/ImageGallery\"><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>You can almost completely eliminate wheel hop by removing your leafsprings and installing a quality 4-link rear end.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":28,"featured_media":41165,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[5011,3697,11,3470,4879],"tags":[4892,4800,1074,41,4888,822,461],"class_list":["post-41146","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chassis-suspension","category-galleries","category-how-tos","category-news","category-slideshow","tag-galleries","tag-how-tos","tag-mike-aguilar","tag-news","tag-slideshow","tag-suspension","tag-tech-tips-2"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/Lead-Art-4.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-aHE","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/41146","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/28"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=41146"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/41146\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":41182,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/41146\/revisions\/41182"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/41165"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=41146"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=41146"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=41146"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}