{"id":38712,"date":"2017-04-25T06:00:53","date_gmt":"2017-04-25T13:00:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=38712"},"modified":"2017-04-24T11:03:28","modified_gmt":"2017-04-24T18:03:28","slug":"bomb-proof-clutch-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/bomb-proof-clutch-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"jetpack-slideshow-noscript robots-nocontent\">This slideshow requires JavaScript.<\/p><div id=\"gallery-38712-1-slideshow\" class=\"jetpack-slideshow-window jetpack-slideshow jetpack-slideshow-black\" data-trans=\"fade\" data-autostart=\"1\" data-gallery=\"[{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/04\\\/Lead-1.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;38726&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Click Here to Begin Slideshow\\n\\nIn the last issue, we took a look at why a heavy-duty, \\u201cbomb proof\\u201d mechanical clutch linkage is important, even with today\\u2019s low pedal pressure clutch assemblies. If you recall, many original linkage systems out there are already past their best-before dates, with \\u0026#8220;ovalled\\u0026#8221; holes and other issues. A rod-end based large tube linkage will resolve the wear issue forever. But that\\u2019s not the end of it: A high quality custom fabbed linkage will provide you with all sorts of adjustment capability. Sound interesting? Check out the following as we complete the build:&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/04\\\/9-3.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;38716&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Roll Pins&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Cars like \\u201850 5-6-7 Chevys and many early Corvettes used a roll pin on the clutch fork end. But many other cars with mechanical linkage make use of a pointed or semi-ball end at the clutch fork side (for example, a first gen Camaro). A return spring pulls the works tight, but you\\u2019ll still have to fabricate a ball end to seat in the fork.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/04\\\/10-3.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;38717&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Grind the Bolt&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Here\\u2019s how you make it: Cut the head off a 3\\\/8-inch fine thread bolt (common right hand thread) and it grind to a shape that matches the fork. No lathe? Chuck the bolt into an electric drill motor. That allows you to \\u201cturn\\u201d the piece on both a stone and a piece of coarse sand paper to get a nice radius. When done, chase the threads with a 3\\\/8-inch fine thread die.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/04\\\/11-2.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;38718&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;The Fork&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;In this photo, you can see how the modified bolt fits into the clutch fork.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/04\\\/12-1.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;38719&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Rod Ends&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;We used these high quality Aurora three-piece (\\u201caircraft\\u201d) 3\\\/8-inch rod ends on the other ends of the linkage \\u2013 one for the lower and two for the upper. The uppers are left and right hand thread; the lower is a left hand thread. As pointed out earlier, the use of left and right hand threads makes for easy adjustment.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/04\\\/13-1.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;38720&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Welded Nut&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;See the nut welded on the pushrod? It\\u2019s a piece Jerry Bickel Race Cars offers. You simply slide it over the 5\\\/8-inch tubing and weld it in place. It becomes the adjuster nut.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/04\\\/14-1.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;38721&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Turning the Linkage&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Because of the left and right hand threads on each tubing adapter, the nut allows you to turn the linkage \\u201cin\\u201d or \\u201cout\\u201d after backing off the jam nuts on the rod ends. Obviously, this setup is a whole bunch easier than dropping the linkage to adjust the clutch.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/04\\\/15.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;38722&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Stock Linkage&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Here\\u2019s a look at the stock upper linkage for a first gen Camaro (or Chevelle, or Nova, or\\u2026). Plenty of cars use a similar setup.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/04\\\/16.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;38723&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Custom Linkage&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Compare it to the custom lower linkage in the second photo. It\\u2019s easy to see why these OEM pieces bent and buckled way back when big pressure clutches were in vogue.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/04\\\/17.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;38724&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Completed Linkage&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Check out the completed lower linkage (at the top) in the photo. The spindly piece (at the bottom) is the stock linkage. To adjust the stock linkage, you pull a wire retainer off the lower, remove it and turn it in or out. With the custom setup, you back off the jam nuts and simply turn the big nut on the link.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2017\\\/04\\\/18.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;38725&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Assembled Linkage&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Bomb Proof Clutch Part 2&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;This is what the linkage looks like assembled in the Z-bar and clutch pedal. It\\u2019s easy to adjust and you can build it.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;}]\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/ImageGallery\"><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>A high quality custom fabbed linkage will provide you with all sorts of adjustment capability.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":20,"featured_media":38726,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3697,11,3470,4879,5012],"tags":[858,4892,4800,41,4888,282,321],"class_list":["post-38712","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-galleries","category-how-tos","category-news","category-slideshow","category-transmission-clutch","tag-clutch","tag-galleries","tag-how-tos","tag-news","tag-slideshow","tag-tech-tip","tag-wayne-scraba"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Lead-1.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-a4o","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/38712","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/20"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=38712"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/38712\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":38727,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/38712\/revisions\/38727"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/38726"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=38712"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=38712"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=38712"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}