{"id":32284,"date":"2016-11-08T08:56:54","date_gmt":"2016-11-08T16:56:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=32284"},"modified":"2016-11-30T11:38:33","modified_gmt":"2016-11-30T19:38:33","slug":"taking-a-look-at-the-holley-efi-dual-sync-distributor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/taking-a-look-at-the-holley-efi-dual-sync-distributor\/","title":{"rendered":"Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"jetpack-slideshow-noscript robots-nocontent\">This slideshow requires JavaScript.<\/p><div id=\"gallery-32284-1-slideshow\" class=\"jetpack-slideshow-window jetpack-slideshow jetpack-slideshow-black\" data-trans=\"fade\" data-autostart=\"1\" data-gallery=\"[{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Lead-Art-1.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32294&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Click Here to Begin\\n\\nHolley\\u2019s EFI Dual Sync Distributor is the perfect addition to your Holley EFI-equipped street rod or strip burner. They\\u2019re designed to be plug-and-play easy to install, especially when you\\u2019ve already got a Holley EFI system installed. If you\\u2019re not running a Holley EFI, installation is only a little more involved. The Holley PN 565-1xx series Dual Sync Distributor is available for most popular applications.\\n\\nIf you\\u2019ve got a Holley EFI system installed in your strip burner or street rod and you\\u2019re looking for more power, you need the Dual Sync Distributor, because it\\u2019s plug and play compatible with the EFI system you\\u2019re already using. This means there\\u2019s no wiring harness modification required for the install \\u0026#8211; simply remove your old distributor, slap the new one in, and connect the wiring harness plugs to each other. Then time it. Wham bam, thank you ma\\u2019am. You\\u2019re done. \\n\\nAnother cool thing is that it comes with dual Hall Effect sensors for the camshaft and crankshaft signals. You can use the crank sensor as just a crank speed input and use the cam sensor as a sync signal. This is great fort sequential injection systems. You can combine the two sensors to light off Coil-On-Plug applications also. There\\u2019s a blank cap (COP PN 566-101) available for this type of application. \\n\\nThe Hall Effect sensors use a shutter wheel design that is precision machined. This ensures that even when your engine is running at speeds in excess of 8000-10000 PM, you\\u2019re still guaranteed extremely accurate ignition timing. Even if you aren\\u2019t using a Holley EFI system, as long as what you\\u2019re using supports the use of Hall Effect cam and crank sensors, the Dual Sync Distributor will be compatible with whatever you\\u2019ve got. \\n\\nThe distributor gear is a point of failure in any ignition system that\\u2019s not distributorless. Knowing this, Holley designed theirs with a hardened steel distributor gear for long life, even in high speed high torque applications. There are also a series of integrated LEDs that make for super easy setup.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Igntion-Parameters.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32292&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Pre-Installation Setup: Configure the EFI for Use with the Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;If you\\u2019re not running a Holley EFI system or have an EFI system that doesn\\u2019t have a computer interface for tuning, you can skip this step. If you have an EFI with a computer interface, such as the Terminator EFI system, you\\u2019ve got to properly configure it for the EFI Dual Sync Distributor BEFORE you install the distributor. See left image above. \\n1.\\tPlug your laptop into the EFI control unit and turn the ignition to Run\\\/On. \\n2.\\tLaunch the Holley EFI software application. \\n3.\\tClick \\u201cIgnition Parameters\\u201d under \\u201cSystem Parameters.\\u201d\\n4.\\tFor \\u201cIgnition Type\\u201d select \\u201cCustom\\u201d and click \\u201cConfigure.\\u201d\\n5.\\tFor the type of Crank Sensor select \\u201c1 pulse\\\/fire.\\u201d\\n6.\\tFor \\u201cSensor Type\\u201d select \\u201cDigital Falling.\\u201d\\n7.\\tSet your \\u201cIgnition Reference Angle\\u201d to 50 degrees. \\n8.\\tInput a starting value of 100 for \\u201cInductive Delay.\\u201d\\n9.\\tFor \\u201cCam Sensor\\u201d also select \\u201cSingle Pulse\\u201d for the \\u201cType.\\u201d\\n10.\\tThe \\u201cSensor Type\\u201d for the cam is also \\u201cDigital Falling.\\u201d\\n11.\\tFor \\u201cOutput Setup\\u201d select \\u201cPoints Output\\u201d for the \\u201cType.\\u201d\\n12.\\tThe \\u201cDwell Time\\u201d should initially be set to two milliseconds. \\n13.\\tOn the upper menu, click the \\u201cUSBLink\\u201d option.\\n14.\\tAt the bottom of the new dialog box, select \\u201cSend to ECU\\u201d to program the EFI ECU. \\n\\nThe image on the right shows what everything looks like after the ECU has been updated with the new ignition parameters.\\n\\nNote: If you\\u2019re running a distributorless ignition system, you will need to specify the correct type in the \\u201cOutput Setup\\u201d section.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Measuring-for-50-Degrees.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32296&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Set the Mechanical Timing&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Before you remove the distributor you need to make sure that the crank is set to as near to 50 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC\\\/BTC) on the number one cylinder compression stroke as possible. The easy way to do this is to remove the number one spark plug, stick your finger over the plug opening, and rotate the crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket until the compression in the cylinder pushes your finger away from the head. You know you\\u2019re on the compression stroke as you approach 50 BTC. If there is suction, rotate the crankshaft one full revolution.\\n\\nNOTE: If your balancer doesn\\u2019t have a timing mark at 50 degrees BTC, measure the distance specified below from the zero degree mark for the size balancer you have:\\n\\u2022\\t2 5\\\/8 inches from Top Dead Center (TDC) for a six inch diameter balancer\\n\\u2022\\t3 1\\\/16 inch for a seven inch\\n\\u2022\\t3 \\u00bd inches for an eight inch balancer\\n\\u2022\\tIf your balancer isn\\u2019t one of these, use this equation to find the distance to measure: Diameter times 3.14 divided by 360 multiplied by 50 (D * 3.14) \\\/ 360 * 50\\n\\nNote: Holley techs will tell you to disconnect the battery, positive and negative leads to the coil, and the injectors before moving on. To me, this is just a waste of time. Just make sure you\\u2019ve got the key in your pocket and not the ignition before you move on. Since you have to verify the distributor timing before you can start the engine, it is a good idea to disconnect the injector harness so the engine doesn\\u2019t catch when cranking later. \\n\\nNote: Before you remove the old distributor, make sure the area around it is clean and free of debris and leaves, etc.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Remove-Old-Distributor.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32298&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Remove the Old Distributor&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Disconnect the existing distributor from the wiring harness by pulling the two halves of the connector apart. You may need to wiggle the two pieces a little to break the seal. Pop the cap off the distributor. This might require you to turn two hook ended screws counterclockwise 90 degrees, or you may have to pop two clips from their grooves in the cap.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Checking-Rotor-Alignment.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32287&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Check Rotor Alignment&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Check to make sure the rotor is pointing at the number one plug wire on the cap. If the rotor is pointing away from the number one plug on the cap, go back and carefully rotate the crankshaft one full revolution. Set the cap aside. Loosen and remove the bolt on the distributor; hold down by turning it counterclockwise. Set the hold down and the bolt aside. Pull the distributor straight up and out using a slight twisting motion.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Fitment-Check.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32291&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Check for Proper Depth on New Distributor&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;If your heads or intake have been milled, the distributor may sit too deep and end up binding on the pump drive. To check this, apply a light film of either engine oil or assembly lube just under the retainer collar and insert the distributor as far as it will go, without the gasket. If the distributor sits properly without being forced, all is good. If not, you will need some sort of spacer. Often using two distributor gaskets fixes the problem. However, you may need to go get a copper or brass distributor spacer.  Remove the EFI Dual Sync distributor.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/New-Distributor.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32297&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Install the New Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Reapply a thin film of lubricant to the collar and amply lube up the drive gear. Slide the gasket into place on the distributor shaft.\\n\\nLocate where the number one plug tower is on the cap in relation to the distributor and turn the rotor to just before this location as you slowly insert the distributor. Carefully push down on the distributor to fully seat it and verify that the rotor points to number one.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Line-Up-Crank-Sensor.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32295&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Line Up the Crank Sensor&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;If not, lift the distributor until the drive gears disengage and rotate the rotor one tooth in the required direction. Now, rotate the distributor housing until the black \\u201cnub\\u201d is directly under the rotor electrode.   The \\u201cnub\\u201d is the crank sensor.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Install-Hold-Down.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32293&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Install the Hold Down&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Once the distributor is in place, replace the hold down clamp and bolt and tighten the bolt finger tight.\\n\\nNote: The Holley EFI Dual Sync distributor comes with a steel gear. If you\\u2019ve got a billet cam, you\\u2019ll need to carefully use a small punch and hammer to remove the lock pin in the gear and install a bronze drive gear. Be sure to replace the lock pin.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Connect-Ignition-Harness.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32289&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Calibrate the Distributor&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Connect the distributor to the EFI wiring harness. Make sure the connectors are seated completely. Now, put the key back in the ignition and turn it to \\u201cRun\\u201d or \\u201cOn\\u201d without cranking the engine. Head back under the hood. If everything is aligned properly, you\\u2019ll see two red LEDs on the circuit board in the distributor. The LED closest to the crank sensor is the crank sensor indicator and the other one is the cam sensor indicator. Both LEDs being lit indicate that both sensors are active.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Checking-Crank-Signal.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32286&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Check the Crank Signal&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Now you need to \\u201cphase the pickups.\\u201d Determine which direction the rotor in your engine turns, without cranking the engine. You\\u2019ll need to look it up. For example, a SBC engine\\u2019s rotor turns clockwise. Slowly turn the housing clockwise until the crank LED turns off. It should be just about centered in the vane.  Slowly rotate it back, and the LED lights back up.  Now lock the distributor down and remove the ignition key.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Attaching-Distributor-Cap.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32285&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Install the Distributor Cap&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Set the new cap on the distributor and rotate the clamps until they are seated in their respective grooves. Tighten the cap as you hold the clamps in these grooves. Remove the plug wires one at a time and replace them on the new cap. If you\\u2019ve removed all of the plugs, use the proper firing order for your engine. It\\u2019s also recommended at this time to install new plug wires, but you probably already figured that one out.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/DIS-Cap.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32290&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;DIS-Cap&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Holley has a blank cap available for those running a DIS system and just needing cam and crank sync signals. \\n\\nNote: If you\\u2019re running some sort of DIS, like the Holey DIS, you would need to use the available blank cap. Just be sure to remove the rotor prior to installing the blank cap. See image above.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Checking-Timing.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32288&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Verify the Ignition Timing&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;If you disconnected the battery and the coil, go ahead and reconnect them now and hook up your timing light. Go back into the software and verify the ignition timing setting in the software. Let\\u2019s presume 15 degrees. Have a helper crank the engine over as you use your timing light to check the ignition timing. If it\\u2019s off, loosen the distributor hold down a little and very slowly rotate the distributor until the timing is correct. Lock the distributor back down. \\n\\nReconnect the injector harness and crank the engine. If everything was done correctly, the engine should fire right up. Now, head back to the software, open the Sync dropdown menu and select \\u201cEnable Static Timing Check.\\u201d A new dialog will open, showing the preset timing value \\u0026#8211; in our case, 20 degrees. Rest that to ten degrees and hit \\u201cSet.\\u201d Carefully rev the engine up to about 3500 RPM and double check the timing. It should be at ten degrees.&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;},{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https:\\\/\\\/www.racingjunk.com\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/Static-Timing-Check.jpg&quot;,&quot;id&quot;:&quot;32299&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Reset Delay if Necessary&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;Taking a Look at the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;If the timing is off, you will need to reset the inductive delay in the software. To do this you will first need to put the system Offline and then open the Ignition Parameters and go to the Sensor Settings dialog. Decrease the delay if your timing is advanced. Conversely, if the timing is retarded, increase the delay. Sync the change to the ECU by clicking the USBLink button on the menu and the \\u201cSend to ECU\\u201d button in the dialog that opens.  \\n\\nThat\\u2019s it. You\\u2019re done. You\\u2019ve successfully installed the Holley EFU Dual Sync Distributor and are now ready to race. \\n\\nSee ya at the track!&quot;,&quot;itemprop&quot;:&quot;image&quot;}]\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/ImageGallery\"><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>Holley\u2019s EFI Dual Sync Distributor is the perfect addition to your Holley EFI-equipped street rod or strip burner.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":28,"featured_media":32294,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[5013,3697,11,3470,4879,9],"tags":[813,15,4800,1074,41,4888],"class_list":["post-32284","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-electronics-wiring","category-galleries","category-how-tos","category-news","category-slideshow","category-tech-tips","tag-gallery","tag-holley","tag-how-tos","tag-mike-aguilar","tag-news","tag-slideshow"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Lead-Art-1.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-8oI","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/32284","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/28"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=32284"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/32284\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":32300,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/32284\/revisions\/32300"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/32294"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=32284"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=32284"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=32284"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}