{"id":28413,"date":"2016-06-28T16:07:42","date_gmt":"2016-06-28T23:07:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=28413"},"modified":"2016-07-07T13:30:19","modified_gmt":"2016-07-07T20:30:19","slug":"swapping-out-gm-axles-bearings-and-seals","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/swapping-out-gm-axles-bearings-and-seals\/","title":{"rendered":"Swapping Out GM Axles, Bearings, and Seals"},"content":{"rendered":"

Swapping Out GM Axles, Bearings, and Seals<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"We<\/a>
We tackle the job of replacing axles, bearings, and seals in our strip burner Camaro. These steps will work for any GM ten- or twelve-bolt rear. Images from screenshots.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

If you\u2019re building up a strip burner, that baby is going to need new axles. If you use the axles made for the tame 200-300 stock engine in your Camaro, Trans Am, or whatever with a powertrain that pumps closer to 1000 horses, you\u2019re going to run into serious problems. Like, you won\u2019t even last for the burnout; you\u2019ll spin the splines right off the ends of the axles as soon as you hammer it. Swapping out the weak old axles for some new ones, say from Strange Engineering, isn\u2019t hard. To be honest, it\u2019s also not all that time-consuming. It\u2019s just messy. Let\u2019s walk through the process of installing new axles in a GM ten- or twelve-bolt rear-end, shall we?<\/p>\n

What You\u2019re Going to Need for This Project<\/p>\n

\"Timken<\/a>
Timken is the first to come out with these cool seal and bearing assemblies that make this job a little easier.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I\u2019m betting that other than the replacement parts and the gear oil, you probably already have everything you need to complete this project. Here\u2019s the list:
\n\u2022 Jack and two jack stands
\n\u2022 Sockets and ratchet
\n\u2022 Lug wrench
\n\u2022 Catch pan
\n\u2022 Gasket scraper\/cleaner
\n\u2022 RTV Black
\n\u2022 New differential housing cover gasket
\n\u2022 Gear oil 80\/90W \u2013Maybe a quart
\n\u2022 New axles
\n\u2022 New axle bearings
\n\u2022 New axles shaft seals
\n\u2022 Axle bearing puller
\n\u2022 Hammer
\n\u2022 Seal installer or block of wood
\n\u2022 Axle bearing installer
\n\u2022 Prybar or good-sized flat screwdriver
\n\u2022 Two blocks of wood<\/p>\n

Step 1: Raise and Support the Car<\/strong><\/p>\n

Park the car on a flat and level surface, not in your driveway, keep it out of gear\/Park for now. Block the front and rear of at least one front wheel. Using the lug wrench, loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels. Place the jack under the differential and raise the rear end until the wheels are clear of the ground. Place the jack stands under either the rear frame rails, the lower shock mounts, or the axle housing on either side and slowly lower the car onto them. Remove the lug nuts and wheels.<\/p>\n

Step 2: Remove the Differential Cover<\/strong><\/p>\n

Image: Diff-Cover-Bolts.jpg<\/p>\n

Lower the jack all the way and pull it out from under the car. Slide the catch pan under the differential housing. Using the ratchet and a socket, usually half-inch or 9\/16-inch, remove the bolts on the cover. There\u2019s going to be either ten or twelve of them. You want to leave three or four in but removed most of the way to catch the cover.<\/p>\n

Carefully pry the cover off the differential housing. Don\u2019t try and pop it off all in one shot, you\u2019ll bend it. Tap a screwdriver or small prybar between the cover, remove it, move 45 degrees, and repeat. I like to start at the bottom, move 45 degrees clockwise, and then 45 degrees counter clockwise from the very bottom.<\/p>\n

Step 3: Remove the Brake Parts-Disc Brakes<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"There<\/a>
There are two caliper bolts to remove.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

First, you need to pull the caliper. The two bolts securing the caliper to the caliper bracket are usually either 9\/16-inch or 14 mm. To make removing the caliper a little easier, you can use your prybar or screwdriver to carefully pry the outer tabs\/wings away from the rotor.<\/p>\n

\"There<\/a>
There are also two caliper bracket bolts.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Remove the bolts and pull the caliper off the rotor. Use a wire or string to hang the caliper from the leafspring or brake hard line. Don\u2019t let it hang from the hose. Next, remove the two bolts securing the caliper bracket to the axle housing. These are normally \u00be-inch or 19 mm bolts.<\/p>\n

\"Most<\/a>
Most rotors will \u201cwalk\u201d right off. However, for those that don\u2019t, you can use two screws to push the rotor off.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

With the bolts out, remove the caliper bracket, set it aside, and then remove the rotor. If the rotor doesn\u2019t want to come off easily, there are two holes in it, across from each other, that you can thread bolts into which will push the rotor off. You should now be looking at the axle and brake backing plate.<\/p>\n

Step 3: Remove the Brakes-Drum Brakes<\/strong><\/p>\n

This is ridiculously easy. Simply pull the brake drum off the axle studs. If it sticks, you can smack the flat part of it a few times with your hammer.<\/p>\n

Step 4: Remove the Axles<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Axle-Pin-&-Retainer\"<\/a><\/p>\n

On GM 8.2-inch and 8.5-inch pumpkin gear ten- and twelve-bolt rear ends, there\u2019s a small 5\/16-inch bolt that locks axle pin in place. The axle pin is a chrome pin that keeps the axles from floating inward and allowing the C-clips to fall out. Rotate the driveshaft until you can see this bolt.<\/p>\n

\"Releasing-the-C-Clip\"<\/a> \"Remove-C-Clips\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Now, put the transmission either in gear (with a manual) or in Park (with an automatic) to keep the driveshaft and rear gears from turning. Remove the axle pin bolt and set it aside. Push the axle inward, reach into the gear housing, and remove the C-clips.<\/p>\n

\"Removing-the-C-Clips-#2\"<\/a> \"Remove-the-Axle\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Now, carefully remove the axles. Slowly and very carefully slide the axles out of the axle housing. You\u2019re protecting an inner bearing and seal inside the differential when doing this, not the outer bearing and seal we\u2019re replacing.<\/p>\n

Step 5: Remove the Seal and Bearing<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Removing-the-Seal\"<\/a><\/p>\n

If you want, you can use a specialized seal removal tool, but with the axle in hand, you\u2019ve got all you need already. Simply place the end of the axle behind the inner lip of the seal and push down on the hub end lightly. The seal is now sliding down the axle shaft towards the hub.<\/p>\n

Pulling the axle bearing is a little more involved, though. For this, you need a specialized bearing puller. There are a couple different types of this tool. Mine is a hardened steel flap attached to a slide hammer. You can loan or rent one at your local part store, like Autozone.<\/p>\n

\"Remove-the-Bearing\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The tool is installed and held firmly behind the bearing. The slide portion of the slide hammer is then slapped, hard, against the outer stop. This is repeated until the bearing comes out. Another style of tool has the puller installed behind the bearing and a cap set against the outside of the axle housing. A bolt is then tightened down with a wrench until the bearing comes out. Repeat Steps 3-5 on both sides.<\/p>\n

Step 6: Installing the New Bearing and Seal<\/strong><\/p>\n

In the old days, this was a two-step process, first, the bearing was installed and then the seal was installed. Timken now has an integrated bearing and seal unit that I highly recommend. It turns a two-step process into a single step.<\/p>\n

\"Bearing-and-Seal\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Either way, you need a bearing installer tool. Find the cup that just fits inside the axle housing, place the bearing on the tool, and smack the tool\u2019s handle with a hammer until the bearing is fully seated. Next, repeat the process with the seal. If you use the new Timken integrated bearing and seal, smack the tool until the sound you hear when striking the tool with the hammer changes. This indicates the bearing is seated. Repeat this on the other side.<\/p>\n

Step 7: Install Your New Axles<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Axle-Install\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Once you\u2019ve got the lug studs installed (unless the axles came with the studs pre-installed) on your new performance axles, it\u2019s time to install the axles. Carefully slide the new axle into the axle housing, using the hub to keep the end of the axle shaft centered as much as you can. Slowly slide the axle into the housing as far as it will go.<\/p>\n

Once the inner end of the axle shaft bottoms out against the carrier assembly inside the differential, carefully move it around until you find the opening and can fully seat the axle. Repeat this on the other side.<\/p>\n

\"Reinstall-C-Clips\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Now reach inside the axle carrier inside the differential and ensure that the axles are fully seated. If not, wiggle and slightly rotate the hubs while pushing towards the center of the car until they are fully seated. Again, reach into the axle carrier, this time, while holding the C-clip.\/ Make sure the worn side of the C-clip (if using the old ones) is toward the center of the differential and slide it over the end of the axle. Push the axle out. Repeat this on the other side.<\/p>\n

\"Reinstall-Axle-Pin\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Finally, slide the chrome axle retainer pin that you removed in Step 4 above back into the carrier between the axles, making sure that the screw hole is pointed towards the passenger side. Reinstall the 5\/16-inch bolt and torque it to eight to ten pound-feet. It\u2019s a good idea to put a few drops of red Threadlocker on the threads before reinstalling this bolt.<\/p>\n

Step 8: Replace the Differential Cover and Refill with Gear Oil<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"RTV-Black\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Use an old rag and wipe the old gear oil into the catch pan. Next, completely remove the old cover gasket from both the differential housing and the cover. Wipe both surfaces clean with a rag. Make sure that every bit of old gasket is removed. Remove the magnet from the cover and thoroughly clean it. You need to get every bit of metal shavings off the magnet before sticking it back onto the cover.<\/p>\n

\"Remove-Diff-Plug\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Next, check the bolt holes on the cover. If they aren\u2019t flat, place the cover upside down on a socket and tap the bolt holes with a hammer to flatten them. If you don\u2019t do this, the cover can leak.<\/p>\n

\"Filling-the-Diff\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apply a light coating of RTV black to both the housing and cover and push the new gasket into the housing. Hold the cover up against the housing and get all ten or twelve bolts started and hand tight. Torque these bolts to twelve pound-feet. If you tighten these bolts too much, you\u2019ll pull the bolt holes in and cause the cover to leak.<\/p>\n

\"Filled-Diff\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Slide under the car from the rear passenger side with a ratchet and short extension. Locate the square drive differential housing plug. Use the ratchet and extension to remove the plug. Using 80\/90 weight gear oil, refill the differential until gear oil just begins to seep out of the plug opening. I like to use a one-foot length of small hose over the nipple on the gear oil bottle to have better control over the flow of the gear oil. Reinstall the diff plug.
\nStep 9: Brakes, Tires, and Lower<\/strong><\/p>\n

Wipe down the backing plates at the outer ends of the axle housing. Reassemble the brakes on your car. Slap the tires on and run the lug nuts down as much as you can with the rear in the air. Slide the jack under the differential housing and raise the car off the jack stands. Remove the jack stands and lower the car until the suspension begins to take the weight of the car. Finish torquing the wheels and lower the car the rest of the way.<\/p>\n

You\u2019re going to want to test drive the car for a few miles, making sure to take some left and right turns. This makes sure the gear oil is evenly distributed in the differential and down the axle housing tubes. After the test drive, raise the rear evenly and recheck the level in the diff. Pull the plug again and stick your pinky into the plug opening. You want the gear oil to be about a \u00bc inch below the opening. Top it off as needed.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If you\u2019re building up a strip burner, that baby is going to need new axles.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":28,"featured_media":28424,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3698,9],"tags":[2208,39,1830,281,322,1074,2837,461],"class_list":["post-28413","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tech","category-tech-tips","tag-axle","tag-chevrolet","tag-differentials","tag-how-to","tag-install","tag-mike-aguilar","tag-rear-differential","tag-tech-tips-2"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Lead-Image1.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-7oh","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/28413","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/28"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=28413"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/28413\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":28436,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/28413\/revisions\/28436"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/28424"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=28413"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=28413"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=28413"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}