{"id":17526,"date":"2015-08-18T08:32:20","date_gmt":"2015-08-18T15:32:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=17526"},"modified":"2016-11-30T11:52:29","modified_gmt":"2016-11-30T19:52:29","slug":"upgrade-your-strip-burners-ride-with-new-shocks-and-struts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/upgrade-your-strip-burners-ride-with-new-shocks-and-struts\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Install New Shocks and Struts"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_17527\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-17527\" style=\"width: 638px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/204731-1000-0.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"17527\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/upgrade-your-strip-burners-ride-with-new-shocks-and-struts\/204731-1000-0\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/204731-1000-0.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1200,587\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"204731-1000-0\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;The Bob Hemmings 70s Monte Carlo Pro Stocker is a prime example of what new shocks and the right springs can do.  Not only will you improve the handling of your hot rod, it&amp;#8217;ll look better, too.&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/204731-1000-0-300x147.jpg\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/204731-1000-0-1024x501.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-17527 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/204731-1000-0-1024x501.jpg\" alt=\" Bob Hemmings 70s Monte Carlo Pro Stocker\" width=\"638\" height=\"312\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/204731-1000-0-1024x501.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/204731-1000-0-300x147.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/204731-1000-0.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 638px) 100vw, 638px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-17527\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bob Hemmings 70s Monte Carlo Pro Stocker is a prime example of what new shocks and the right springs can do. Not only will you improve the handling of your hot rod, it&#8217;ll look better, too.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h4>Upgrade Your Strip Burner with New Shocks and Struts<\/h4>\n<p>Installing new shocks and\/or struts is the quickest, easiest, and cheapest way to improve your strip burner\u2019s handling and ride characteristics. Original equipment suspension components, even those on cars marketed as high performance vehicles just don\u2019t cut it for our hobby. They\u2019re too squishy, causing too much lean and suspension rebound. In the best case scenario this can cause a reduction in your steering control and reactivity. Not long ago I write an article <a href=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/2015\/06\/09\/safely-removing-coil-springs\/\">on how to change suspension coils<\/a>. This companion piece\u00a0will\u00a0show you how easy doing shocks and struts can be.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Gather Your Tools<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The tools you need for changing shocks are probably tools you\u2019ve already got:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Jack<\/li>\n<li>Jack stands<\/li>\n<li>Wheel chock.<\/li>\n<li>Sockets<\/li>\n<li>Wrenches<\/li>\n<li>Spring Compressor (depending on the cartridges\/assemblies)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Of course, air tools will make the job go quicker and require less \u201celbow grease\u201d but they aren&#8217;t necessary. If you\u2019re installing new struts, you may or not need a spring compressor. This will depend on whether or not you\u2019re replacing just the cartridges\/ strut assemblies or if you\u2019ve bought complete units that include upgraded coils, which is what I recommend.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Ways that Shock Absorbers Are Attached to the Vehicle<\/strong><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_17528\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-17528\" style=\"width: 638px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/Shock-Mounting-Types.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"17528\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/upgrade-your-strip-burners-ride-with-new-shocks-and-struts\/shock-mounting-types\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/Shock-Mounting-Types.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1200,800\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Shock-Mounting-Types\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;These are the four types of shock mounting you&amp;#8217;re likely to run into when changing shocks on your strip burner.&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/Shock-Mounting-Types-300x200.jpg\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/Shock-Mounting-Types-1024x683.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-17528 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/Shock-Mounting-Types-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Shocks, Adjustable shocks, Drag race 101, RacingJunk\" width=\"638\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/Shock-Mounting-Types-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/Shock-Mounting-Types-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/Shock-Mounting-Types.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 638px) 100vw, 638px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-17528\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">These are the four types of shock mounting you&#8217;re likely to run into when changing shocks on your strip burner.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>There are typically three ways that a shock absorber can be secured to your vehicle. The first type has a flange plate on the bottom and a single stem that has bushings and washers. Another type of shock absorber mounting has a large eyehole at the bottom instead of the flange. The third type has large eyeholes at both the top and bottom of the shock utilizing a single large bolt to secure the shock to the vehicle. See image above for representations of these.<\/p>\n<h4><strong>Step 1: Get the Car in the Air<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p>Block in front of and behind one wheel. If you\u2019re doing front shocks, block one rear wheel, of doing the rears, block a front wheel. Place the jack and raise the car enough to comfortably get underneath and place jack stands under the frame rails behind the front wheels or in front of the rear wheels and lower the car onto the stands. Make sure you park on a flat and level surface and set the parking brake.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Changing Front Shocks Step 2: Out with the Old Parts-Upper Mount<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>On some cars you will need to turn the wheel completely to one side or the other to gain access to the upper mounting location on the upper control arm or frame, while on others the stem pokes through into the engine compartment and is accessed there. Remove the mounting bolt(s) from the top of the shock absorber.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 3: Remove the Lower Mounting Bolt(s)<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Drop under the car and remove the lower mounting bolt(s) and remove the shock absorber through the bottom of the control arm.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 4: Install the Shock and Lower Mount<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>From underneath the car, slide the new shock absorber up through the opening in the center of the lower control arm until the lower mount(s) match(es) up. Leave it just a little loose to assist you in securing the upper mount(s). Prior to installation, if you\u2019ve got the type of shocks with the stem and bushing\/washer setup, install one washer and bushing, taking care to observe proper orientation of both.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 4: Secure the Upper Mount<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Since raising the wheels off the ground unloads the suspension, you\u2019ll most likely need to help the shock reach the upper mounts. Place the jack under the lower ball joint and slowly lift the jack to raise the control arm. Make sure you guide the upper portion of the shock absorber into its mounting. Once the mount(s) line up properly, install the bolts or nuts and tighten them.<\/p>\n<p>Torque specifications vary by year and model, but average around 50 foot-pounds. With the upper mount installed and torqued, tighten the lower mounts. Again, the average torque spec is in the area of 50-60 foot pounds. If you\u2019ve only lifted one side of the car, repeat Steps 1-4 on the other side and lower the car.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Changing Rear Shocks Step 2: <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>On some vehicles, this is actually going to be Step 1 of rear shock removal because you\u2019ll need to climb into the car to get to the upper shock mounts. They\u2019re located either in the trunk or, for hatchbacks, just behind and to the outside of the rear seats. These will be the type of shock that has the single stem with the bushings and washers.<\/p>\n<p>Your car may have a plastic cup covering the upper mounting bolt, especially if you\u2019ve got a hatchback. If the upper shock mounts are in the trunk, they\u2019ll most likely be covered by a flap of the trunk carpeting. Remove the nut and washer\/bushing combo from the upper shock mount. Once that is done, you can raise the rear of the car to get underneath it. Just be sure to block off a front wheel.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 3: Remove the Lower Mounts<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>With the rear of the car lifted and properly supported, slide under and remove the lower mounting bolt(s). On rear shocks this is usually going to be the large eyehole and single bolt type of mounting, although I have seen the two bolts and flange arrangement also. However, the cars we turn into drag racers are usually of the former type.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 4: Install the New Shocks and Attach at the Bottom<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>If your rear shocks are of the type with the long extended stem and bushing\/washers type, install the large washer and one bushing onto the shock stem. Next, position the shock so that the bottom lines up with the mount and the top is pointed towards the upper mount. Thread the bolts in to the bottom mount, leaving them loose so you can wiggle the shock around if you need to.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 5: Secure the Upper Shock Mount<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>On most cars, you\u2019re going to need to slowly and carefully lift the rear suspension to get the upper mount to match up properly. Secure the upper shock mount and torque it to the proper spec. After doing the other side, lift the car off the jack stands and lower it to the ground.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Changing Struts Step 2: Remove the Strut Cap Nuts\/Bolts<\/strong><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_17529\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-17529\" style=\"width: 638px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/MacPherson-Struts.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"17529\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/upgrade-your-strip-burners-ride-with-new-shocks-and-struts\/macpherson-struts\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/MacPherson-Struts.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1200,800\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"MacPherson-Struts\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;The parts of a MacPherson strut.&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/MacPherson-Struts-300x200.jpg\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/MacPherson-Struts-1024x683.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-17529 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/MacPherson-Struts-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Shocks, Adjustable shocks, Drag race 101, RacingJunk\" width=\"638\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/MacPherson-Struts-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/MacPherson-Struts-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/MacPherson-Struts.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 638px) 100vw, 638px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-17529\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The parts of a MacPherson strut.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Struts are tricky. They are an integral part of the vehicle\u2019 suspension that affects the alignment. If you\u2019re simply replacing the cartridges inside the strut canister, mark the strut and (if present) camber eccentrics (See image) to ensure that the alignment angles stay as close to where they should be as possible. Also mark the locations of the three or four nuts and studs on the strut cap that can be seen on the wheel well. (Marked by the arrow in the image below.)<\/p>\n<p>Now you can remove the three (or four) nuts found on the wheel well under the hood and set the nuts aside. Removing the tire makes this job easier, but isn\u2019t required. \u00a0While you\u2019re up here, unless you have the advantage of air tools, now is a good time to <em>loosen <\/em>(DON\u2019T remove) the large nut securing the strut to the strut cap. If you\u2019re planning on replacing just the cartridges, now would also be a good time to use a pair of Channellock-type pliers to loosen the cap nut on the strut tube. There may be a boot inside the coil that you will need to lift to gain access. Just break both of these loose a thread or two to ease their removal later.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 3: Remove the Main Mounting Bolts and Strut Assembly<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Removing the tire makes this part of the job easier, but isn\u2019t required. Place your jack under the lower ball joint and lift it enough to just support the control arm without raising it. Carefully disconnect any wiring harnesses and slide the brake line clamp off to release the brake line from the bracket. Remove the nuts on the bolts securing the strut assembly to the steering knuckle. Slowly lower the jack until you can remove the strut assembly.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 4: Compress the Coil Spring<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Here\u2019s where it can get dangerous. Lay the strut assembly on a solid surface and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=ZRcT-1WIhcI\">install the strut spring compressor properly<\/a>. Double check to make sure it is installed properly. I like to wrap a piece of chain with a nut and bolt holding them together around the chain, or a heavy-duty rope for added safety. Carefully compress the strut coil spring until all coil tension is released from the strut cap. If you\u2019re going the added safety route, now is when you will want to use the rope or chain.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 5: Remove Strut Cap and Coil<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>With the coil spring compressed and no tension on the strut cap, you can remove the large (7\/8 inch or 15\/16 inch nut at the top of the strut securing the strut cap to the strut rod. Many strut rods have a \u00bc or 3\/8 inch Allen head inside the rod to help you with loosening and removing the cap nut. With the nut removed slide the cap and coil off and carefully set both aside. If you\u2019re going to be installing performance coils, go ahead and decompress the coil and set it aside and compress and safety the new coil.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 6: Remove and Replace the Strut Cartridge from the Assembly<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>If you\u2019re replacing the whole strut assembly, skip this step. Using those large slipjoint pliers again, remove the strut tube nut and remove the strut cartridge from the strut tube. Pour any fluid trapped in the tube in a catch pan or bottle to properly dispose of later. Slide the new strut cartridge into the tube and slide the tube nut over the strut rod or spindle. Thread and tighten the nut. If you\u2019ve got a vise, carefully clamp the strut assembly in it to tighten the nut. If not, wait until you get it back on the car.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 7: Reassemble the Strut<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Make note of the up and down orientation of the coil, slide the strut coil over the strut assembly. Next, Slide the strut cap over the strut rod and thread the nut down. Tighten it as much as you can. If you need to, wait to apply final torque until after you have it installed.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 8: Reinstall the Strut<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Slide the strut connecting bracket over the corresponding location on the spindle and guide the top of the strut (the strut cap) through the corresponding openings in the fender well. You may need to use the jack to lift the lower control arm enough to seat the top of the strut. Slide the two bolts through the strut mounts, slide the washers in place, and thread the nuts down. Tighten these enough that they don\u2019t spin easily, but leave them loose enough that you can turn the bolts (not the nuts) with moderate effort using a wrench or socket.\u00a0 Finish guiding the strut cap into place and thread the three or four nuts in place. If you have camber eccentrics (oblong washers) tighten the strut cap bolts to approximately 30 foot pounds.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 9: Rinse and Repeat <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Lower the car, and move to the other side and repeat steps 2-8 above to finish the installation portion of this job.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 10: Eyeball How the Tires Sit<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>MacPherson struts are an integral part of your car\u2019s alignment. The alignment angle known as camber is adjusted either by turning the bolt with the oblong washer on the strut mount, or moving the strut cap around in elongated bolt holes.<\/p>\n<p>With the car on the (flat and level) ground and all the nuts and bolts fairly tight, bounce on the front end a few times to settle the suspension. Now, eyeball the tire to ensure that it\u2019s straight up and down, or maybe leaning just a hair toward the car. If it looks good, tighten everything up. If not, turn the camber eccentric bolt on the strut housing or tap the strut cap in or out to correct it. Once you\u2019ve got it close, tighten everything up and head down to have the alignment checked professionally.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256128.ETbi1HtIT3JsnobNgHYr_height640.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"17531\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/upgrade-your-strip-burners-ride-with-new-shocks-and-struts\/45775831256128-etbi1htit3jsnobnghyr_height640\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256128.ETbi1HtIT3JsnobNgHYr_height640.png\" data-orig-size=\"640,480\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"45775831256128.ETbi1HtIT3JsnobNgHYr_height640\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256128.ETbi1HtIT3JsnobNgHYr_height640-300x225.png\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256128.ETbi1HtIT3JsnobNgHYr_height640.png\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-17531 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256128.ETbi1HtIT3JsnobNgHYr_height640.png\" alt=\"Shocks, Adjustable shocks, Drag race 101, RacingJunk\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256128.ETbi1HtIT3JsnobNgHYr_height640.png 640w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256128.ETbi1HtIT3JsnobNgHYr_height640-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256128.ETbi1HtIT3JsnobNgHYr_height640-326x245.png 326w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256128.ETbi1HtIT3JsnobNgHYr_height640-80x60.png 80w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_17530\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-17530\" style=\"width: 414px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256130.2JQAE9Op9pHidJnQHHQl_height640.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"17530\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/upgrade-your-strip-burners-ride-with-new-shocks-and-struts\/45775831256130-2jqae9op9phidjnqhhql_height640\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256130.2JQAE9Op9pHidJnQHHQl_height640.png\" data-orig-size=\"414,480\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"45775831256130.2JQAE9Op9pHidJnQHHQl_height640\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;This is the kind of strut coil spring compressor that I use.  It has multiple safety devices and also pivots so it lays down to make working on the strut easier.  It&amp;#8217;s not feasible for most unless you plan on performing this type of repair on a regular basis.&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256130.2JQAE9Op9pHidJnQHHQl_height640-259x300.png\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256130.2JQAE9Op9pHidJnQHHQl_height640.png\" class=\"wp-image-17530 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256130.2JQAE9Op9pHidJnQHHQl_height640.png\" alt=\"Shocks, Adjustable shocks, Drag race 101, RacingJunk\" width=\"414\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256130.2JQAE9Op9pHidJnQHHQl_height640.png 414w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256130.2JQAE9Op9pHidJnQHHQl_height640-259x300.png 259w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 414px) 100vw, 414px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-17530\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">This is the kind of strut coil spring compressor that I use. It has multiple safety devices and also pivots so it lays down to make working on the strut easier. It&#8217;s not feasible for most unless you plan on performing this type of repair on a regular basis.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Safety Note:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Wear safety glasses. You can\u2019t replace your eyes if they are damaged while performing this repair.<\/p>\n<p>Carefully read through the instructions for the strut coil compressor before attempting to use it. By compressing the coil, you\u2019re putting an incredible amount of tension on it. If the spring breaks loose, it can do so with more force than a bullet. I also highly recommend using a safety chain or rope for anyone that doesn\u2019t do this kind of work on a regular basis. I used to and still used a safety chain.<\/p>\n<p>Never perform this type of work on a slanted driveway or incline. Not only will the angle through the suspension off and not let you get a good indication of the camber, the car could slide off the jack stands.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Note:<\/strong> You\u2019ll notice in the linked video the presenter had a bit of a hassle getting the strut cap bolt loose. This is why if I don\u2019t have the benefit of air tools, I like to break that nut loose with the strut still installed in the car. Just remember, <strong><em>only<\/em><\/strong> break it loose a thread or two, do <strong>NOT <\/strong>remove it until you have the coil spring fully compressed.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>Learn how to replace your shocks and struts to increase performance in your strip burner.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":28,"featured_media":17530,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[5011,3448,11,3698,9],"tags":[961,281,4668,4669,1074,461],"class_list":["post-17526","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chassis-suspension","category-drag-race-101","category-how-tos","category-tech","category-tech-tips","tag-drag-race-101","tag-how-to","tag-installing-shocks","tag-installing-struts","tag-mike-aguilar","tag-tech-tips-2"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/45775831256130.2JQAE9Op9pHidJnQHHQl_height640.png","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-4yG","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17526","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/28"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=17526"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17526\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":28607,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17526\/revisions\/28607"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/17530"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=17526"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=17526"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=17526"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}