{"id":15968,"date":"2015-06-18T07:06:21","date_gmt":"2015-06-18T14:06:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/?p=15968"},"modified":"2016-11-30T15:07:59","modified_gmt":"2016-11-30T23:07:59","slug":"how-to-change-disc-brake-pads","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/how-to-change-disc-brake-pads\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Change Disc Brake Pads"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_15969\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-15969\" style=\"width: 638px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"15969\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/how-to-change-disc-brake-pads\/url-2\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/url1.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1200,800\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"url\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Photo: www.streetlegaltv.com&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/url1-300x200.jpg\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/url1-1024x683.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-15969 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/url1-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Disc brakes, disc brake pads\" width=\"638\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/url1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/url1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/url1.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 638px) 100vw, 638px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-15969\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo: www.streetlegaltv.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Out with the Old and In with the New<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Every so often, your disc brake pads just need to be replaced. Plus, you might need to replace them if you\u2019re doing a drum to disc conversion and get spindles, rotors, and\/or calipers from a donor car or the junkyard. Each of the Big Three does things a little differently down here, so we&#8217;re going\u00a0to describe the differences and go over\u00a0some tricks for each. I highly recommend a Chilton or Haynes Auto Repair manual for this process, though, to confirm all of the difference. If\u00a0your car didn\u2019t come stock with disc brakes, you need to get the manual <em>for the car the brakes came off of.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>I\u2019m choosing\u00a0one representative year, make, and model from some typical donor cars for classic car disc brake conversions to use as examples. These are:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>1974 Chevy Camaro\/Pontiac Firebird<\/li>\n<li>Ford Mustang or Pinto from the mid to late 70s<\/li>\n<li>1974 Dodge Dart\/Plymouth Duster<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>The List of Tools, Equipment, and Parts You\u2019ll Need<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>A jack<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"15971\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/how-to-change-disc-brake-pads\/images\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/images.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"265,190\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"images\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/images.jpg\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/images.jpg\" class=\" size-full wp-image-15971 alignright\" src=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/images.jpg\" alt=\"images\" width=\"265\" height=\"190\" \/><\/li>\n<li>At least one jack stand<\/li>\n<li>Lug wrench or tire iron<\/li>\n<li>Large slipjoint\/Channellock pliers<\/li>\n<li>Sockets and ratchet or wrenches<\/li>\n<li>New set of brake pads-Ensure you know the year, make, and model of the donor car, if applicable.<\/li>\n<li>Disc Brake Quiet or similar product<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.autozone.com\/brakes-and-traction-control\/brake-disc-hardware-kit-front\/chevrolet\/camaro\/1969\/8-cylinders-5-0l-2bl?filterByKeyWord=disc+brake+hardware&amp;fromString=search\">Replacement hardware kit<\/a> if the calipers came from the junkyard<\/li>\n<li>Two wheel blocks<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 1: Apply the Brake Quiet<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>If you\u2019ve got one, use a drill with an 80-100 grit sanding disc to remove the sharp edges on the pads. This helps to keep them from squeaking. Disc Brake Quiet is a product that helps the brake pads stick to the caliper to keep them from vibrating. This reduces brake system noise. Set the pads friction material down on the box they came in and liberally coat them with the product. If there are any clips or shims, install them and apply more product if required. Let them sit.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_15970\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-15970\" style=\"width: 638px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"15970\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/how-to-change-disc-brake-pads\/pads\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Pads.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1024,768\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Pads\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Pads-300x225.jpg\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Pads-1024x768.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-15970 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Pads-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Pads\" width=\"638\" height=\"479\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Pads.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Pads-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Pads-678x509.jpg 678w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Pads-326x245.jpg 326w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Pads-80x60.jpg 80w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 638px) 100vw, 638px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-15970\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prior to doing anything, apply a generous coating of Disc Brake Quiet or similar product to the backs of the brake pads. This helps keep them from vibrating, which causes noise.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Step 2: Remove the Tires<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Park on a flat and level surface, put a manual transmission in gear or an automatic in Park and firmly set the parking brake. Block the front and rear of one rear tire. Place the jack under the radiator support of frame crossmembers and raise the jack enough to take a bit of the car\u2019s weight. Using the lug wrench, loosen the lug nuts on both tires a couple turns. Raise the wheels off the ground, remove the lug nuts, and then the wheels. I like to place a piece of cardboard or some shop rags over the sidewall and use it as a stool.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 3: Remove the Calipers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>I\u2019ve seen Torx bolts, Allen\/hex key bolts, and regular hex bolts used to secure the caliper to the caliper support bracket. However, stock is usually either a \u00bd inch or 9\/16 inch standard hex head bolt. If it\u2019s been some time since the calipers have been off or they\u2019re extra rusty, you may need some rust penetrant or lubricant. Using whatever is required remove the two bolts securing the caliper to the bracket. Lift the caliper off the rotor. You may have to rock it a bit to get it out. Hang the caliper from the suspension coil or something so there is no tension on the rubber brake hose. Never suspend the caliper from this hose.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 4: Remove the Old Pads and Collapse the Caliper Pistons<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>This is where it starts to get a bit different when you move between makes, models, and even years of the same model. Pull the outer pad off the caliper and set it aside. Using the outer pad support as leverage, pull the inner pad out of the caliper piston. Turn it over and remove any clips or springs on the back. Install any clips or hardware on the new pads.<\/p>\n<p>Place the friction material side of the inner pad against the caliper piston-the round object protruding from the center of the caliper). Using the large slipjoint pliers (or, if you have the money, disc brake pad spreaders) collapse the piston until it is flush with the body of the caliper.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"15973\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/how-to-change-disc-brake-pads\/ford\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Ford.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"400,400\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Ford\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Ford-300x300.jpg\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Ford.jpg\" class=\" size-full wp-image-15973 alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Ford.jpg\" alt=\"Ford\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Ford.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Ford-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/Ford-300x300.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Fords and Chrysler products from our donor car\u2019s time typically have annoying little clips on the pad wings that need to be transferred to the new pads.<\/p>\n<p>On Camaro and Duster calipers, the brake pads are retained on the calipers by ears on either side of the pads. Tap the outer pad with a wrench or hammer to loosen it. Pads on the other cars should slide off relative easily.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 5: Install the New Pads<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"15975\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/how-to-change-disc-brake-pads\/4-24\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/4.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"400,400\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"4\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/4-300x300.jpg\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/4.jpg\" class=\" size-full wp-image-15975 alignright\" src=\"http:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/4.jpg\" alt=\"4\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/4.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/4-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/4-300x300.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/>Now that the caliper piston has been forced back into the caliper bore, it\u2019s time to install the new pads. Pay attention to the old ones. They aren\u2019t interchangeable, the inner pad must go against the piston and the outer pad must go on the outer pad support.<\/p>\n<p>Prior to installing the pads in the GM or Chrysler caliper, tap their wings on the outer pads to bend them down a bit. This will help secure them in the caliper and keep them from vibrating and making noise. Sliding the wings over the tabs on the caliper should take a little bit of effort.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 6: Hang the Caliper<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Remove the wire or string used to suspend the caliper. Slide the caliper and pads over the rotor. You may need to pull the pads apart a bit. The caliper may require rocking to get it to seat on the caliper support. Install and torque the caliper to support bracket bolts. You should buy and refer to a repair manual (Haynes or Chilton are my favorites) to obtain the proper torque specifications.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 7: Repeat on the Other Side<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Repeat the steps above on the other side of the car.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 8: Hang the Wheels<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Grab the wheel and line up the lug holes with the lug studs. Slide the wheel over the studs. Thread the lug nuts onto the studs and tighten them as much as possible with the wheels in the air. Raise the car of the jack stands and pull them out. Lower the jack until the suspension is taking most of the weight of the car. Tighten and torque the lug nuts to the correct specification. Lower the car.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>Installing new disc brake pads is often a necessary component of maintenance, as well as modification. Here&#8217;s our guide.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":28,"featured_media":15974,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[5009,3448,11,9],"tags":[2930,2796,152,43,67,4800,1074,461],"class_list":["post-15968","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brakes","category-drag-race-101","category-how-tos","category-tech-tips","tag-disc-brake-pades","tag-disc-brakes","tag-dodge","tag-ford","tag-gm","tag-how-tos","tag-mike-aguilar","tag-tech-tips-2"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/BrakePadFotor.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p42YSK-49y","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15968","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/28"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=15968"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15968\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":27153,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15968\/revisions\/27153"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/15974"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=15968"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=15968"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.racingjunk.com\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=15968"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}