Many of the cars we love were originally built as simple machines.
In our last issue, we began our look at how you can slice and dice your ET slip by way of reducing rear end unsprung and rotational weight.
Tubular upper control arms with specialized ball joints can give you a suspension that can tackle just about anything you throw at it.
It should be no secret to anyone who has ever climbed into a racecar that there’s more than one way to go fast.
How do you select a universal joint, and which size universal joint is best for the application?
U-joints are far from the most glamorous pieces of equipment you can install on your race cars, but they’re still very important – so important that if one expires, it can take the complete floor out of your pride and joy.
Talk about pinion angle and you’ll get a dozen different opinions, and likely some arguments too.
There are a lot of causes for chassis bind, but the first thing to look for is a bound up rod end (or “sets” of rod ends).
A number of manufacturers offer good 4-link suspension systems, but Heidts make one of the few that is truly bolt-in.
You can almost completely eliminate wheel hop by removing your leafsprings and installing a quality 4-link rear end.