U-joints are far from the most glamorous pieces of equipment you can install on your race cars, but they’re still very important – so important that if one expires, it can take the complete floor out of your pride and joy.
Talk about pinion angle and you’ll get a dozen different opinions, and likely some arguments too.
There are a lot of causes for chassis bind, but the first thing to look for is a bound up rod end (or “sets” of rod ends).
A number of manufacturers offer good 4-link suspension systems, but Heidts make one of the few that is truly bolt-in.
You can almost completely eliminate wheel hop by removing your leafsprings and installing a quality 4-link rear end.
No matter how much money you put into it, the rear suspension on your 70-73 F-body has one glaring shortcoming: It’s got a solid axle. There’s a way to overcome that, though. It’s called an independent rear suspension (IRS).
Mike Aguilar shows you how to tighten up the handling of your F-body by installing an IRS.
You can do things to a solid axle rear-end suspension to make it handle better than stock.
Welcome back! In this article, we’ll continue by flushing the power steering pump, if you have one, to get rid of all the old fluid and contaminants that can damage your new rack and pinion.
Mike Aguilar shows you how to install a rack and pinion conversion kit in your early F-body, in part 1 of this 2 part series.