Which Oil For Break-in?

Old 11-11-2013, 03:40 AM
  #11  
shybx1969
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Originally Posted by roadkill2
Here ya go . . read it completely before you form any kind of opinion.

http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/


http://www.oilextreme.com/index.html
Wow the truth gets a guy death threats...excellent article dude...
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Old 11-11-2013, 04:19 PM
  #12  
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The only thing i wanna add is whats good for tony stewart...may not be so good for john force....does a drag engine wear different from say a pulling truck engine...just curious. :?
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:02 AM
  #13  
roadkill2
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Originally Posted by shybx1969
The only thing i wanna add is whats good for tony stewart...may not be so good for john force....does a drag engine wear different from say a pulling truck engine...just curious. :?
Of course. A NASCAR engine generally fails because of a valve train issue (High RPM for long durations) where a Truck will probably fail from bottom end bearing failure.

Drag engines are a little different because of the many different kinds of drag racing. With the advent of electronic rev limiting devices, most drag racers have pretty much confined their breakage to random parts failures, and common sense usually will limit how hard you buzz your bullet . .

Forced Induction engines will suffer bottom end failures and Nitrous Engines (with and without turbos) get piston and ring failures from high combustion chamber temps. Those are "General" differences and the "General" failures that come with them.

And in all of those, while requiring a good grade of oil, the kind of oil used usually doesn't contribute greatly to those failures named above . . As the engineer who ran all those tests illustrated.

The best thing you can do with your oil, is to pay attention to it. As has been noted by several correspondents, look closely at the oil on the head when you "Run Your Valves" and after a race weekend, let the car sit for a few hours (or a day) and then drain a quart off the bottom, unscrew the filter, cut the filter open, and inspect both the drained oil and the contaminants caught in the oil filter. Any more than trace "Sparkles" could mean that you may have a problem.
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Old 11-13-2013, 05:59 PM
  #14  
bubbabbc
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Default Break in oil

Brad Penn 30 wgt break in oil is popular with many teams in the Northeast running methanol.
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Old 11-14-2013, 05:00 AM
  #15  
roadkill2
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A word to the wise . . Over the years I've used the old "Sh*t in the carburetor" analogy as advice about doing what others have been observed doing, especially when they're successful.

In Racing, almost any kind, when one team is winning or going fast, everyone wants to know what they're doing or using to be so successful. And if a member of that team is seen taking a crap into the carburetor prior to the next race, many other racers will be seen straining over their carburetors for no other reason than they saw Member "X" doing it and "those guys go fast".

Point being, whatever the other guy does to his ride, do a little research and deduce the effect that change or material, or part will have on your engine. Don't assume it's good just because "John Force" uses (or says he does) a part, system or fluid of some sort. Knowing that someone one 'Does This or That" means nothing. KNOWING WHY is everything!

Go to the Oil Test Site I posted. Print it out. Read it until you understand it completely. I think it's one of the most informational and honest test series I've ever read. And it should save you both wear and tear on your precious Racing Engine and give you peace of mind that you're not using the best oil you can afford but the best oil that works.

Incidentally, I neglected to post the original poster's name and kind of blew that off. Sorry about that. Now I can't find it either, but thanks again for that link. It's a great piece of information!
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Old 11-14-2013, 06:38 PM
  #16  
kend
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So after reading that article I'm thinking after I do the break-in thing I'll just grab the first oil on the list, do you see a flaw in my plan?
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Old 11-15-2013, 05:18 AM
  #17  
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I suppose, if that's what you got out of the article . .

The guy tested oils for their lubricity under stress and temperature extremes. Then gave an honest report on those he tested.

Out of all of that he gave several choices that are good and some not so . . .

He also dis-proved several ideas or theories.

But, again, it's up to each individual to take what was written for whatever they think it's worth. I tend to favor the writer's results because he wasn't supported by any oil or aftermarket parts company in his testing, so had no axe to grind with anyone or anything . .

In every case, in this forum or any other, when someone asks a group of correspondents a question, he/she will probably get a whole range of answers because of the range of experience of those responding to the questions. In the case of the oil tests, it's nothing more than a qualified engineer conducting objective testing and reporting the results of those tests.

In my own case, after using more than six or seven oils over the years and never having an engine failure that I could trace back to failure of the Lubricant (other than not being where it was supposed to be) I welcome a report like that. It makes a lot of claims and explanations look a lot like they really are, just semi-logical explanations in order to market and sell a product.

Kinda like "Global Warming" . . Unless you are presented with the hard science you'll tend to believe the guy with the loudest bullhorn . . .
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