nitrious

Old 07-16-2013, 09:08 PM
  #31  
bjuice
Administrator
RACING JUNKIE
 
bjuice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Greenville s.c.
Posts: 3,239
Default

I will try to give a good idea without being to drawn out. You will get the idea... Here is my understanding.....when excessive amount of raw fuel enters the cylinder it washes down the coat of oil..the heat build up is so great it cannot dissipate fast enough..the ring lands will lift because of heat..taking out oil rings causing oil to enter cylinder causing detonation...( meltdown )..This happens at a accelerated rate when using Nitrous because of amount fuel used thru the carb and fuel selenoids from the Nitrous.. This is very short version.
__________________
Bjuice..

"I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "
bjuice is offline  
Old 07-16-2013, 09:11 PM
  #32  
TheYellaBrick
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
TheYellaBrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Emmett, Idaho
Posts: 7,334
Default

Originally Posted by Tod74
Originally Posted by bjuice

To un-popular belief more engines are hurt at the track running Gas for being too rich than lean..but lean does it as well.j
Could you explain that a little further please....by pm is fine if you don't want to get off subject too much.Too Lean I understand what happens.... What happens when it's fat in regards to the nitrous tune? Just trying to learn
Sounds like a teachable moment ! Share it with the rest of us, please !
TheYellaBrick is offline  
Old 07-17-2013, 07:01 AM
  #33  
TheRabbit
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
TheRabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Augusta, Ga.
Posts: 2,295
Default

Originally Posted by bjuice
I will try to give a good idea without being to drawn out. You will get the idea... Here is my understanding.....when excessive amount of raw fuel enters the cylinder it washes down the coat of oil..the heat build up is so great it cannot dissipate fast enough..the ring lands will lift because of heat..taking out oil rings causing oil to enter cylinder causing detonation...( meltdown )..This happens at a accelerated rate when using Nitrous because of amount fuel used thru the carb and fuel selenoids from the Nitrous.. This is very short version.
Correct. Basically the motor can't burn all the fuel in the cylinder.
That's why it's so important to read the plugs on a nitrous motor. If it's rich you can either add more nitrous or take away fuel. All is done by changing the jets. Simple fix, but not so simple to figure out. The hard part is every engine is different. I can tell you my tune up and it may work and it may not work or your motor even if they are the same motor.

You can see a pic of the piston I posted and see the ring land is gone. Well it's actually burnt off lol, but if you catch it before that you can see where it is rolling and not holding the rings in place. In my case the fire was from the oil in the cylinder and once the piston burnt through a lot more oil comes up and catches on fire.

One thing about a nitrous motor you have to be careful is when starting the motor. If you have a solenoid that is leaking ANY it will put raw nitrous in the motor and when you start it can explode. (ALWAYS USE A FILTER ON YOUR NITROUS LINES) You should always cut off a valve and bleed the pressure off before you shut the motor down AND have a seperate swith for ignition and start. That's why you see guys turning the motor over a good bit then turning on the ignition on a nitrous motor. Actually a lot of guys use plastic / nylon intake bolts on the intake so they will break loose without destroying everything. I've seen some really UGLY nitrous explosion that destroy the entire top of the motor and hood.
TheRabbit is offline  
Old 07-17-2013, 07:17 AM
  #34  
Tod74
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,143
Default

Thanks.....I figured it had something to do with washing the cylinder down with fuel but didn't know the connection to detonation . This is good info.
Tod74 is offline  
Old 07-17-2013, 08:23 AM
  #35  
hotrod1994
Senior Member
EXPERT BUILDER
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: nekoosa wisconsin
Posts: 308
Default

thanks for all the help!!!!! this car is gonna be more of street car so i think im gonna leave it alone after this motor and after i cut the weight.....im trying to find a "racecar" to build something light.....im a die hard chevy guy thru and thru but a light fox body mustang with a bic c.i sbc and spray on a 10.5 tire is ideal in my eyes
hotrod1994 is offline  
Old 07-17-2013, 09:02 AM
  #36  
roadkill2
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 628
Default

Too Rich is, probably, as dangerous as being too lean. However, it generally takes a lot less time to find out you're too lean, and if you're using juice, you can cause the same results you encounter when you're too lean with Nitro. Instant melting of the non ferrous metals in your cylinders . .

On the Oil thing. No matter where you get the oil in the Combustion Chambers, whether it's from bad or hung rings or leaky valve guides or for that matter, a leaking intake or head gasket, if you know basic physics, you understand that oil burns a lot hotter than the fuels we use, if they're anywhere near the correct mix, and if there's enough, (it doesn't take much) your pistons, too, can look like Rabbit's examples . .

And if you use any kind of forced intake, you'll just double your "pleasure" if you get oil in a cylinder . . It's vicious!
roadkill2 is offline  
Old 07-17-2013, 01:44 PM
  #37  
TheRabbit
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
TheRabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Augusta, Ga.
Posts: 2,295
Default Nitrous

Oh yea trying to burn oil is another topic. It doesn't compress very well and makes a mess of a motor in a hurry. lol

Originally Posted by roadkill2
Too Rich is, probably, as dangerous as being too lean.
Actually it's way worse. On nitrous if your lean you loose power. If your fat you burn stuff up and burn it QUICK. What I'm trying to say is it's way easier to hurt it by being rich than being lean. It's really rare somebody hurts a nitrous motor by being lean.
Reading the plugs tell it all. Pretty much when you pull them out they should look like they were never run other than a timing mark on the strap.

Even this plug is rich. I hurt my motor on this tune the next pass after this plug was pulled. I do need to add that this motor was still 15-1 compression. It was dropped to 12.5-1. The lower compression gave me a lot bigger tuning window as the pros call it. I say it gave me more room for my stupidity! lol


TheRabbit is offline  
Old 07-17-2013, 02:51 PM
  #38  
bjuice
Administrator
RACING JUNKIE
 
bjuice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Greenville s.c.
Posts: 3,239
Default

I wasn't going to say anymore on it cause it goes against what the contrary belief has been circulated for years ....I knew it ( rich ) was going to raise some eye brows when it got mentioned....lol.....

I am far from classifying myself as a Nitrous expert but I have spent many, many summer days/nights at the track under the hood and laying under race cars with experts who run Nitrous. Tony Christian and Steve Kirk just to name a few...Tony runs a mega dose of this stuff...4 stages ALL IN by .08 out.....Tony set up my combo at a private weekend session in Bradenton Fla....So although I am NOT an expert. I know enough about it to know what I cannot do with it and the consequences if I slip up. I run lean...LEAN IS MEAN...My plugs look like they do out of the box after a full power Nitrous pass... I flow the gas solenoids at 5- 1/2 pounds in cool air. We can fudge down to 5 -1/4 and maintain power in more humid air conditions. :shock:

There is so much more we can discuss in relation to Nitrous. I could foresee two more detailed pages worth...I joked around at beginning of this thread and said there are 196 areas to discuss on this topic. Well consider we have covered 5 or 6 areas 190 more to go...lol.

if any of you guys are interested in keeping the discussion open please feel free to ask..no such thing as a dumb question...cause I assure you there is a lot of stuff to go over in many area's..engine,NOS set up,converter,gearing ( which some of you might be surprised), utilizing Gear retards, staging with NOS how and why, what do if car stalls ( and you better know or KABOOM )..Proper bottle pressure and why.....on and on and on.. this can lead down many Rabbit holes ( no pun intended Scott... 8) )

here is a link to my profile. There is a embedded vid from you tube on a shake down hit ( small stage 28/32 jets or 300 shot ). The track was bad and we were experimenting with ramping in 3 degree timing gear retard...

would you believe it if I told you that Nitrous is the BEST chassis tuning tool in racing ?

http://www.racingjunk.com/profile/10107

here is a the you tube link just in case...67 nova stock firewall,steel qtrs , steel roof. 10.5 tires..3,000 lbs... best ET in 1/8th [email protected] mph 1.10 60ft
PAR Big Chief 632ci with two stages .. 600 shot all in by .07 out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP9MzOuTs9I
__________________
Bjuice..

"I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "
bjuice is offline  
Old 07-17-2013, 04:36 PM
  #39  
Swiley383
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
 
Swiley383's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: White Bluff TN
Posts: 625
Default

Somthing I have wondered is what why do a motor purge if you have purge valves is it to clear the solinods out or plugs I see all the guys around here spray big hits do it
Swiley383 is offline  
Old 07-17-2013, 04:56 PM
  #40  
chevynovaman
Senior Member
SENIOR BUILDER
 
chevynovaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: CENTRAL WISCONSIN
Posts: 114
Default

I motor purge to make sure everything is on and working. I got to the line last weekend at the mud drags and did a motor purge and it wanted to kill the motor, bottle was accidently closed somehow so I ran on motor only..
chevynovaman is offline  

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service