oil pressure drops at topend of the track

Old 04-10-2013, 01:44 PM
  #21  
roadkill2
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The kink in this mystery lies in the fact(s) that you're running an eighth mile and dropping pressure like you were running out of oil, but . . You still have oil pressure. Not a lot, but . . some.

Generally, when you run out of oil, the pressure goes completely away or the needle dances. Your pressure doesn't just taper off or drop to a new level.

So, it could be the guage, or it could be the pressure relief spring in the pump. It could also be where the oil pressure line is tapped off of . .

Of course these, again, are just SWAGs because we don't really have enough information. Nor do you, apparently, although it's better to ask now than when the rods make new windows and you end up with a puzzle . .

Pull the pan and look there first. Generally, it should be pretty simple, because short of the Ford Cleveland (Milwaukee), oil systems on internal combustion engines are generally pretty simple . .
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:20 PM
  #22  
Swiley383
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The oil pressure line is tapped off the top of the block behind the intake and is ran using a copper line.
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:50 PM
  #23  
Swiley383
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one more question what brand of pump recommended by you guys? I have had bad luck out of Mellings int the past.I have been checking options and prices there are a lot of options out there.
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:44 PM
  #24  
markdunlap
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CVR makes a nice steel oil pump.

If I had the pan off with oil pressure issues , I believe I would change the rod and main bearings out.

There is a small aluminum tool made to go in the main bearing oil hole to roll out the top bearing shell and roll the new one back in. Or you can make one out of a small aluminum bolt.
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:28 AM
  #25  
Swiley383
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Do you know where I can get one of those tools or have a picture of one so I can see What I need to make?
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:25 AM
  #26  
curtisreed
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You can take a large cotter key, put it in a vice and smash the loop end down into a T shape. It needs the top or cross piece the be not thicker than the bearing shell. Then you put the leg down in the oil hole, turn the crank and the bearing half will spin out. That said I might look at a couple of bearings before I worried about changing them all. Unless you have seen any bearing material when you changed oil they are probably ok. You do what you feel is best though.

The pan I use is from Champ pans. Does a fair job of oil control, although I still run an accumulator for piece of mind when I have to park it at the finish line or stop on a short track.

http://www.champpans.com/index.cfm?e...ctdetail&id=83

Or Jegs is selling B&B pans under the Jegs label.

The oil pump I run is the 22124 with a higher pressure spring installed.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/22124/10002/-1

Just my combination, take it for what it is worth.

Curtis
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:28 AM
  #27  
Swiley383
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Thanks for all the information. It will be a few weeks before I will have a chance to pull the pan I will let you know what I find. Thanks again.
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:53 PM
  #28  
markdunlap
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You have a private message.

Look at the top of the page.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:02 AM
  #29  
oldandtired
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Personally I would pull the engine to look at it. Since it's a race car, it's not as hard as a street car.
Put the engine on a stand, drain the oil and pull the pan BEFORE rotating it. All the trash will stay in the pan.

JMO
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:14 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by curtisreed
You can take a large cotter key, put it in a vice and smash the loop end down into a T shape.
Curtis
WARNING !!! DO NOT use the cotter key method if the engine is out, on a stand, and upside down. I just tried this tonight and the key lodged into and then sheered off at the oil galley outlet. Had to pull the crank without pulling the heads. Got it out by myself but might require and extra set of hands to drop it back in. Pissed to say the least......GET A DEDICATED TOOL for this job.!!!
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