Antiroll Bar

Old 01-09-2012, 02:01 PM
  #11  
bbchevy
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Originally Posted by coolracing
Thanks Rabbit just ordered one from RJ Race Cars I went with the Pro Series kit. Was a little more cost eff.
Thats PROBABLY 1 of the Nices Kits on the Market!
Later
G 8)
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Old 01-09-2012, 03:05 PM
  #12  
TheYellaBrick
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Re; cracked arms,
Those cars probably had a BUNCH of suspension compression from soft springs, coupled with a TON of torque that wanted to cause a lot of body roll, and maybe too stiff an anti roll bar. All that together against the anti roll bar and SOMEthing is under WAY high stress , arms and splines.

We've all seen that 60's Belair that launches so hard it looks like it's gonna flip over sideways. THAT is the kinda action I'm talking about. If he had a little stiffer rear springs along with an anti roll bar, he'd launch flatter and his 60 foot times would dive. All that energy to twist that body and lift that one front tire, put into forward motion would result in overall faster times.

This one here. watch how much time he spends just gettin' outa the hole. Imagine how high the pucker factor is driving this !

-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJA_urCmSls

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mV4_H...eature=related
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:17 PM
  #13  
coolracing
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Originally Posted by DrivingMissDD
Re; cracked arms,
Those cars probably had a BUNCH of suspension compression from soft springs, coupled with a TON of torque that wanted to cause a lot of body roll, and maybe too stiff an anti roll bar. All that together against the anti roll bar and SOMEthing is under WAY high stress , arms and splines.

We've all seen that 60's Belair that launches so hard it looks like it's gonna flip over sideways. THAT is the kinda action I'm talking about. If he had a little stiffer rear springs along with an anti roll bar, he'd launch flatter and his 60 foot times would dive. All that energy to twist that body and lift that one front tire, put into forward motion would result in overall faster times.

This one here. watch how much time he spends just gettin' outa the hole. Imagine how high the pucker factor is driving this !

-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJA_urCmSls

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mV4_H...eature=related



Ya he is a regular at my home track WIR he is more about putting on a good show then runnin a good number. But I got to admit he is a crowd pleasure! I get when ur comin from with that Double D.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:46 AM
  #14  
fast75vega
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Originally Posted by zipper06
. Just curious as to why you think they it will help, it doesn't soulve chassis twist.

JMO

Zip.
thats exactly what i seen it do.... cars i seen leave damn near lvl with them in the rear and b4 had the left wheel up and the right still on the ground and bar was the only thing changed :wink:
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:29 PM
  #15  
bbchevy
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Well,I'll Be the Test Mule on this!
Cause I Have a Kit on the Way!!!
My Chassis Guy is 1 of the BEST in the Business,He set my car up.After seeing several Picts with the Left Frt.3' in the Air and the Right skiming the Pavement?
He Told me?G,we NEEDS a Anti-Roll!!!!!!!
So,.................?
Later
G 8)
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:33 AM
  #16  
JEFF69Z28
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Default Re: ?

Originally Posted by bbchevy
Well,I'll Be the Test Mule on this!
Cause I Have a Kit on the Way!!!
My Chassis Guy is 1 of the BEST in the Business,He set my car up.After seeing several Picts with the Left Frt.3' in the Air and the Right skiming the Pavement?
He Told me?G,we NEEDS a Anti-Roll!!!!!!!
So,.................?
Later
G 8)
And a 14 point roll cage to stiffen the body up and for saftey.
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Old 01-11-2012, 06:41 AM
  #17  
TheYellaBrick
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X2 on the cage. Figure that a full length cage system as a 'bridge'. It will make your whole platform rigid and stable, allowing for more accurate and consistent suspension tuning. Also think TRIANGULATION as that is the STRONGEST and safest !
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Old 01-11-2012, 07:13 AM
  #18  
bbchevy
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Well IF it were a Full Tube Car that would Not be a Issue?But for Now the 12pt Cage will have to do!
Being that MOST of My Problem is Body Roll and Not Chassis Flexing,we will Deal with IT?
In all Reality,Its only about 12-14" difference from Left to right.If it was 36"s then there would Obviously be Other Issues!!!
THANKS!
G 8)
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Old 01-11-2012, 07:50 AM
  #19  
TheYellaBrick
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A 12 point is way better than a 4pt. You'll be fine. Keep us all posted on your progress and trials and tribulations. Remember that you do NOT want to adjust a bunch of preload as this will REALLY stress the arms and splines.Let it work naturally as designed. You will probably be trying different spring rates left to right.IE; a tad stiffer on the right and good/new adjustable shocks.

Set up a base line and KEEP ACCURATE NOTES on each and every adjustment noting the results. ONLY make ONE adjustment at a time, as you can get totally lost if you make more. Make this a science project cuz it takes this approach to be fast and CONSISTENT ! It WILL pay off.

HAVE FUN !!!!

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Old 01-11-2012, 08:21 AM
  #20  
JEFF69Z28
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Originally Posted by bbchevy
Well IF it were a Full Tube Car that would Not be a Issue?But for Now the 12pt Cage will have to do!
Being that MOST of My Problem is Body Roll and Not Chassis Flexing,we will Deal with IT?
In all Reality,Its only about 12-14" difference from Left to right.If it was 36"s then there would Obviously be Other Issues!!!
THANKS!
G 8)
What kind of car is this going on?
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