shut down procedure

Old 12-25-2009, 04:12 PM
  #31  
hammertime
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Originally Posted by bjuice
well hammer you may not see a visual drop on the mechanical gauge going thru the traps at 140+ mph..but its safe to say you not staring at it very long either... ....

another thing if anyone thinks oil in the pan doesn't move forward in the pan away from the pump on a hard deceleration...think again.

thats why many top notch racers use dry sump oiling systems..( for this reason)

again whatever works for you...both shut down procedures are used succesfully thousands of times each weekend across the country
I stare at 3 gauges a lot .. 1 oil pressure in the shut down, 2 vacuum pressure during a run from start to finish (its actually crazy what can be gained in making a bracket car consistent by the vacuum) and the trans temp gauge again more consistent.

I've been through several oil pans in the past, if you get the right pickup location on the pump and a sump that is not very long (front to back) your almost guarnteed not to loose preasure

I agree it may work for some but the last thing I need in the other lane is someone to reverse it and find me and total both cars or worse hurt us both. Like I said I guess I have just seen enough of this over the years to see what happens if something goes wrong and you miss N and find R .. motors are cheap compared to my life
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Old 12-25-2009, 08:11 PM
  #32  
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Agreeing with Dave here. I have gone thru at 140+ and there has been no drop on the gauge and the idiot light did not kick on.

I have said it before, the only place N is far enough away from R is in the alphabet.
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Old 12-25-2009, 09:58 PM
  #33  
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I always leave mine in high gear, short track or long track and i also run the cheap baffled pans, the only time i bump mine to nutural is if i break something. Obviously a door car cross member type step pan has less chance of the oil running too the front. Of course an accumulator is cheap ins.
Now time for the giggles :lol:
I would worry about bumping into reverse even with a lock out shifter. S0 40 plus yrs ago before all the high dollar shifters was even thought of and i made my own shifters. I took to the redneck solution (will still work today) if you want too be absolutely certain of not hitting reverse. I took a small cabinet type hinge and bolted it to one side of the shift gate, and before i started the run i would just flip over the hinge so it would be impossible to go past nutural. I did that with my early blower cars because i did used to go to nutural and shut down the engine at the same time i pulled the chute.

JMO

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Old 12-26-2009, 08:19 AM
  #34  
bjuice
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Well Guys i am not trying to convince anyone to Bump in Neutral...and i do think we are speaking of two different kinds of Cars here...excluding the fact there is extra wear and tear on the engine by not going into Neutral....the #1 reason PRO-AND BIG nos Money racers get in Neutral then Kill the Engine is getting actual Plug readings...which is impossible to do running thru and letting it wind down in gear and Not shutting engine off....

hammer you speak as if Going into Neutral is a high Wire death defying Act,I don't think the debate of drag racing being dangerous starts or stops with this procedure, when in fact its a procedure that is commonly used with Top level racers where fine tunning is a MUST....

I AM NOT saying this will work for you or anyone else..what i am saying there is a valid reason for it and is a requirement at a higher level.

here is a copy of a thread on another site i think some of you will find interesting...the site is mainly devoted to 10.5 Oultaw racing where ET'S and Mph range from 4.20's and up to 190 mph..

there are a few 10.5 champions that responded that have posted their shut down procedure and reason why....and i think they are still alive and has killed No-one. :shock:
i do know PERSONALLY That Ex-Pro-mod World champion Scotty Cannon and Quann Stott use this procedure.I haven't spoken with John force or any of those Guys but from what i have seen in person and on TV they are in neutral and killing the engine as well...not to mention pro-stock cars and Bikes ...Go Figure.



I guess what i am after here is to keep the original person who ask the question 100% informed..instead of demonizing and scaring him to death. why not tell him why this procedure is done and let him make up his own Mind..i think i said from the start its whatever works for you..i am not advocating either way.


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Old 12-28-2009, 10:05 PM
  #35  
bad60gmc
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Originally Posted by slowmotion
I've used neutral before. I had cooling problems and would shut the car down and coast. Gateway has a very loooonnnggg shut down. Since we put in the new radiator, I leave it in gear. going to neutral can be very dangerous.
I agree, if you shift neutral and the ass starts washing around you cant ease on the gas to pull out of it. If you pull it back in gear while its washing your really in for a ride. I personally dont let off the gas untill I feel the chute open, then let off and let it slow down in gear. thats my 2 cents
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Old 12-29-2009, 06:07 AM
  #36  
mooneye777
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[quote="bjuice"]Well Guys i am not trying to convince anyone to Bump in Neutral...and i do think we are speaking of two different kinds of Cars here...excluding the fact there is extra wear and tear on the engine by not going into Neutral....the #1 reason PRO-AND BIG nos Money racers get in Neutral then Kill the Engine is getting actual Plug readings...which is impossible to do running thru and letting it wind down in gear and Not shutting engine off....

I don't think the debate of drag racing being dangerous starts or stops with this procedure, when in fact its a procedure that is commonly used with Top level racers where fine tunning is a MUST....

I AM NOT saying this will work for you or anyone else..what i am saying there is a valid reason for it and is a requirement at a higher level.

there are a few 10.5 champions that responded that have posted their shut down procedure and reason why....and i think they are still alive and has killed No-one. :shock:
i do know PERSONALLY That Ex-Pro-mod World champion Scotty Cannon and Quann Stott use this procedure.I haven't spoken with John force or any of those Guys but from what i have seen in person and on TV they are in neutral and killing the engine as well...not to mention pro-stock cars and Bikes ...Go Figure.

I guess what i am after here is to keep the original person who ask the question 100% informed..instead of demonizing and scaring him to death. why not tell him why this procedure is done and let him make up his own Mind..i think i said from the start its whatever works for you..i am not advocating either way.

I have usually thrown it in N at 155 MPH with no ill handling habits. I was recently informed of it mainly being hard on the drive line, witch was the reason I asked. I could see a street drven door car getting speed wobbles mainly because the susspension is not designed to run that fast, and then coast. But my old dragster felt no different other then quiet.

I read one statement that it slowly works the rear main bearing out of place by leaving it in gear, thats the stuff along with the tranny failure I am worried about. I guess I will just try the car as it is new to me and run it the way it handles best. I fear the thought of crashing my car and for sure do not want to destroy the car next to me.

Thanks fro everyones opinions, it is interesting that its a what works best situation for most drivers on here.
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