OK>>OK I know the answer, Just wanted to throw it out

Old 05-07-2009, 04:28 PM
  #11  
MEMRACING62
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IF IT WAS ME I WOULD INVEST IN A NEW JOINT AND CHANGE THE YOKE, JOINTS ARE CHEAP , I WOULD WANT TO START OFF WITH NEW ONES ANYWAY. SIMPLE PROBLEM SOLVED. :idea:
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Old 05-07-2009, 04:46 PM
  #12  
dparker
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Originally Posted by Tod74
Originally Posted by dparker
Jake is it close to bottoming out in the trans or on the outside at the seal?
The reason I answered the way I did was because he had another thread asking if it was bad thing that the driveshaft was too long...he had changed to a TH400 and said the shaft was so long he had trouble getting it in and out....I warned about busting the trans case.

He then started this thread, so I assumed he was going to try and cut the yolk off to avoid hurting the trans,instead of getting a different shaft. He told me via PM that he now had a shorter shaft that was the correct length but it came with a long yolk....so he wanted to cut the yolk off instead of changing them I guess.
Your exactly right, Its always better to have the right driveline. I have seen a long yoke that was to long but had a couple of inches before the yoke bottomed out to the seal, that probably could have been cut. I've always just measured and had mine cut down. Driveline shop here only charges about $90.00 to cut down and rebalance. I always thought it was just good insurance, after seeing the damage when a driveline breaks at high rpms.
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:23 PM
  #13  
TheRabbit
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Originally Posted by MEMRACING62
X2 TOD, WHEN YOKE BOTTOMS OUT , BY,BY TRANS AND POSSIBLE THRUST BEARING ON CRANK!!
I agree. NO WAY am I going to take a chance. I'm not skimping on a drive shaft when it's turning 100+ mph! I've seen some nasty things happen when they break. Maybe it's just me, but I like knowing it done right. BTW it would drive me nuts if I didn't think it was balanced. Come to think of it I may have early signs of OCD! :shock: Or worse CDO. That's like OCD, but in alphabetical order!!
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