Milky oil and alcohol

Old 05-25-2011, 07:21 AM
  #21  
kod99
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Originally Posted by ccperf721p
Right side running hotter than left could be caused by a number of things.

Nozzles are not designed or tested for low pressure flow, so it may even drop a couple of nozzles with the handled pulled out. Butterfly settings and intake reversion can also play a part. The nozzles are aerated, so they pull in air even if they aren't dropping the proper amount of fuel.

There is no exact setting for the butterflies and barrel valve, it varies with each combination. It's a little back and forth game, find the butterfly opening that gives the correct idle speed, then find the correct barrel valve setting that gives the proper amount of fuel at idle so it goes up on the converter clean. I set up at 2 flats rich from a clean hit on the transbrake, which happens to be 22%. .002 on the butterflies, idle out of gear at 1150, 1000 in gear.

The drop in vacuum could easily be caused by the oil being stripped from the vanes in the pump. I have found it best to drop a couple of ounces of oil in the pump before I fire the car for the first time that day.

Try not pulling the handle out so much.
Thanks ccperf.

I will double and triple check everything you mentioned.
I'll check the idle and the barrel valve leakdown and flush and lubricate the vacuum pump. Although the pump was working, because it was forcing steam out of the breather vent...like a steam engine.

I would think at 60 psi idling fuel pressure, all nozzles would be getting fuel.
I'm running an Edelbrock Sr intake.

And i will not lean it as much as I did. I'm sure I over did it. Hence the header discoloration.
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Old 05-25-2011, 08:41 AM
  #22  
ccperf721p
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If I remember correctly, Ron's barrel valves do not bypass fuel to the return line with the shutoff, it merely closes off the supply from the pump. If this is the case and you are taking your reading from the pump side it will not show nozzle pressure. Also you will get a big spike on the gauge when you lift off the throttle.

About the only time I use fuel pressure to reference anything is after the initial tuning is done I will throw a gauge on the nozzle side to get an idea of what pressure to start with on the high speed.

Most of injection tuning is by feel and time slips, you have to have a place to start so you use the basic measurements, barrel valve setting etc etc to get it running.
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Old 05-25-2011, 08:43 PM
  #23  
zipper06
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Originally Posted by ccperf721p
If I remember correctly, Ron's barrel valves do not bypass fuel to the return line with the shutoff, it merely closes off the supply from the pump. If this is the case and you are taking your reading from the pump side it will not show nozzle pressure. Also you will get a big spike on the gauge when you lift off the throttle.

About the only time I use fuel pressure to reference anything is after the initial tuning is done I will throw a gauge on the nozzle side to get an idea of what pressure to start with on the high speed.

Most of injection tuning is by feel and time slips, you have to have a place to start so you use the basic measurements, barrel valve setting etc etc to get it running.
I agree with this,depending on which barrel Valve you have, it would have an idle bypass?check valve spring of about 15 lbs, which is closed off as soon as the throttle is cracked open about 15/20%. As hammer said the blue header could be either a lean or fuel burning in the header. I never have that problem because i ddon't use crome headers (sorry just being funny) I think the best thing would be to get it too the track and try some of the changes you have made. It's really hard to melt an engine down on a normally asperated engine, they either run good or they sputter. i'm not talking about a blown alcohol engine, because you can melt one down in a heartbeat ( I've done it ) Another thing comes to mind, most people run a spacer plate on the manifold this permotes better distribution in the manifold. I don't know if you are running one or not.

JMO

Zip.
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:55 PM
  #24  
kod99
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Originally Posted by zipper06
Originally Posted by ccperf721p
If I remember correctly, Ron's barrel valves do not bypass fuel to the return line with the shutoff, it merely closes off the supply from the pump. If this is the case and you are taking your reading from the pump side it will not show nozzle pressure. Also you will get a big spike on the gauge when you lift off the throttle.

About the only time I use fuel pressure to reference anything is after the initial tuning is done I will throw a gauge on the nozzle side to get an idea of what pressure to start with on the high speed.

Most of injection tuning is by feel and time slips, you have to have a place to start so you use the basic measurements, barrel valve setting etc etc to get it running.
I agree with this,depending on which barrel Valve you have, it would have an idle bypass?check valve spring of about 15 lbs, which is closed off as soon as the throttle is cracked open about 15/20%. As hammer said the blue header could be either a lean or fuel burning in the header. I never have that problem because i ddon't use crome headers (sorry just being funny) I think the best thing would be to get it too the track and try some of the changes you have made. It's really hard to melt an engine down on a normally asperated engine, they either run good or they sputter. i'm not talking about a blown alcohol engine, because you can melt one down in a heartbeat ( I've done it ) Another thing comes to mind, most people run a spacer plate on the manifold this permotes better distribution in the manifold. I don't know if you are running one or not.

JMO

Zip.
Thanks for the advice zipper!
I have the gray barrel valve, no idle bypass and I have a 1" spacer under the Terminator.
I agree, I need to get it to the track. I would like to have the setup somewhat close before I go, so I don't have problems and spend the day wrenching instead of running.
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Old 05-26-2011, 05:10 PM
  #25  
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Pulling the shut off out, did not blue your headers, being to rich blued your headers, when its lean they get gold. You need to find that fine line with the shutoff, keep it in all the way will indeed blue the headers and milk the oil and you'll be back to the same spot your at.
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Old 05-26-2011, 08:36 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by hammertime
Pulling the shut off out, did not blue your headers, being to rich blued your headers, when its lean they get gold. You need to find that fine line with the shutoff, keep it in all the way will indeed blue the headers and milk the oil and you'll be back to the same spot your at.
The engine was so rich, when I made the run at the track, that I gained nearly 2 gallons of methanol in the oil pan and the headers didn't dis-color at all.
When I changed from a #45 to a #80 pill and fired it in the shop, leaned out with the fuel shut off, the headers discolored.
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Old 05-26-2011, 08:58 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by kod99
Originally Posted by hammertime
Pulling the shut off out, did not blue your headers, being to rich blued your headers, when its lean they get gold. You need to find that fine line with the shutoff, keep it in all the way will indeed blue the headers and milk the oil and you'll be back to the same spot your at.
The engine was so rich, when I made the run at the track, that I gained nearly 2 gallons of methanol in the oil pan and the headers didn't dis-color at all.
When I changed from a #45 to a #80 pill and fired it in the shop, leaned out with the fuel shut off, the headers discolored.
Apples and oranges, that was on a run. not idling.

It sounds like we are giving you wrong advice, but trust me, and i've been running injection for over 40 yrs. and Hammer/David in my opinion has one of the best running Rons systems in the country. I just wish i could afford his engine. I know it sounds like it won't be right, but when the smoke clears you will be able to look back at everything that has been said, and say dogone this injection is so simple, it's easier than tripping over a log. Actually i've been running injection and blown systems since 1964, and still do today.

Zip.
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:28 PM
  #28  
ccperf721p
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Handle pulled out until the engine idles at 2200 RPM and it's too rich. OK...
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Old 05-27-2011, 04:07 AM
  #29  
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Chrome headers ... turn blue when rich ... gold when lean just how it is, of course I've only dealt with chrome headers for 8 years :shock:

Apparently I dont know anything about injection so I am done helping at this point ... Kod if you contiune to have issues email or call Monroe he'll also steer you into the correct direction, you combo is not much unlike 100's of bigger BBC motor around the country .. there is a reason we all end up close to the same tune-up.

Thanks Zip Your right my combo just flat works and copies time slips to the ten thousands for a reason. :wink: I am in the middle on doing a new motor, this one should be a bad dude when its done.
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:01 AM
  #30  
kod99
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Originally Posted by hammertime
Chrome headers ... turn blue when rich ... gold when lean just how it is, of course I've only dealt with chrome headers for 8 years :shock:

Apparently I dont know anything about injection so I am done helping at this point ... Kod if you contiune to have issues email or call Monroe he'll also steer you into the correct direction, you combo is not much unlike 100's of bigger BBC motor around the country .. there is a reason we all end up close to the same tune-up.

Thanks Zip Your right my combo just flat works and copies time slips to the ten thousands for a reason. :wink: I am in the middle on doing a new motor, this one should be a bad dude when its done.
David,
I didn't mean to insult your expertise. I was just confused why the headers didn't blue when the engine was rich at the track. I was only stating what I saw and trying to make sense of it.
I appreciate all the help I get on here, including yours, and I NEVER said you didn't know anything about injection.
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