opinion on tearing down new race engine
#11
Member
MASTER JOURNEYMAN
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 45
tear it down to replace rods, with rods that are 210 grams each lighter,WAY stronger, with much stronger than ARP2000 rod bolts. (AMS alloy bolts)
I figure +/- 8 hrs time is not too high a cost, to get these benefits.
I can not imagine anyway the change would ever cause anything but benefits.
I figure +/- 8 hrs time is not too high a cost, to get these benefits.
I can not imagine anyway the change would ever cause anything but benefits.
#14
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: VA Hospital, Dallas, Tx (214 302 1924) cell-972-464-7400
Posts: 540
You asked a blanket general question. We all answered the question in the way it was asked. Looks like the concensus of us are not using any more specifics other than what the original question asked.
WE are in the dark about the whole thing. You did not ask about exhanging any certain rod for titanium. That was not your question.
I will tell you this though if by Titanium Rods you mean the ones on ebay, I would be very wary. Titanium like many other metals comes in a variety of alloys and of qualities. Titanium Rods are not the best rods for several different uses, but are the best for other uses. The prices of Titanium is sky rocketing and you are in for many thousands of dollars to buy good high quality Titanium Rods now.
Rod bolts are another often misunderstood part. Buying the biggest and baddest rod bolts does not assure you against any failure of rod bolts. Rod bolts like everything else in the engine needs to be matched with what that engine's purpose is.
This will calll for extensive rebalancing with more weight getting cut from the crank.
The end result could be great for you, or could be a mess, all depending on what this engine is doing.
I would not want Titanium Rods in my nitrous engines and definetly not a lite crank. On the other hand if it were a Sprint Car or even a late model, with mostly constant higheeer rpm I would for certain prefer the Ti.
Ed
WE are in the dark about the whole thing. You did not ask about exhanging any certain rod for titanium. That was not your question.
I will tell you this though if by Titanium Rods you mean the ones on ebay, I would be very wary. Titanium like many other metals comes in a variety of alloys and of qualities. Titanium Rods are not the best rods for several different uses, but are the best for other uses. The prices of Titanium is sky rocketing and you are in for many thousands of dollars to buy good high quality Titanium Rods now.
Rod bolts are another often misunderstood part. Buying the biggest and baddest rod bolts does not assure you against any failure of rod bolts. Rod bolts like everything else in the engine needs to be matched with what that engine's purpose is.
This will calll for extensive rebalancing with more weight getting cut from the crank.
The end result could be great for you, or could be a mess, all depending on what this engine is doing.
I would not want Titanium Rods in my nitrous engines and definetly not a lite crank. On the other hand if it were a Sprint Car or even a late model, with mostly constant higheeer rpm I would for certain prefer the Ti.
Ed
#15
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: La.
Posts: 2,890
Re: opinion on tearing down new race engine
Originally Posted by phr
Would you guys tear down an engine replace the rods, then rebalance a crank to lose 3.5 lbs rotating weight?
YES 3.5 pounds....
YES 3.5 pounds....
JMO
Zip.
#16
Member
MASTER JOURNEYMAN
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 45
Brand of rods: Crower Pro titanium rods, serviced and rod bolts installed by Crower, rebalancing the Velasco billet crank is a minor cost and is going to be done, it will have to have heavy metal removed. Gun drilling the crank, is being considered also.
This is a max pro street/race 580 inch full roller, water, all aluminum KB Hemi. HP level 1000+ a couple hundred, on pump gas, that I am replacing Pro I beam Manley rods for more strength and loss of rotating weight for a quicker revving engine.
The engine is on the stand currently torn down to short block, waiting for the word, from Crower, on return of the rods.
There are no "budget restraints" on this engine and its strength/longevity are the primary concerns. Want to keep the maintenance down to yearly teardowns for upgrades and the "normal" serviceing.
This is a max pro street/race 580 inch full roller, water, all aluminum KB Hemi. HP level 1000+ a couple hundred, on pump gas, that I am replacing Pro I beam Manley rods for more strength and loss of rotating weight for a quicker revving engine.
The engine is on the stand currently torn down to short block, waiting for the word, from Crower, on return of the rods.
There are no "budget restraints" on this engine and its strength/longevity are the primary concerns. Want to keep the maintenance down to yearly teardowns for upgrades and the "normal" serviceing.