sc4405

Not sure I would do this on today's cam profiles. You are not necessarily on the lobe base circle when the piston is at TDC. Bet if you went back and checked using the EOIC method the lash would be different. On my 4-7 swap BBC the intake will not be fully on the base circle until the exh. is nearly fully open. 8) JB

kwkracing

If your in doubt go back to a hydrualic and leave it alone

chevyart

SC4405 is 100% right, if traysvega was talking about adjusting a roller cam. only way trays way works if for flat tappet solid cams and hydraulic rollers. solid rollers must be done EO_IC or by other ways if you have them chevy art

Tod74

I got the number .006 tight by setting them hot and then coming back the next day and checking them cold. Also I use the go/no go method so mine is the same every time...no variation for feel...or at least not much.

cepx111

lol.... :lol:

suicidebomb

Valve lash threads, never fail to bring a few grins........It's almost a tradition.

Would anyone like some popcorn? BWAHAHAHAHA

jreiley

All of the treads I got on my question are really informative. The CAM card for the Lunati cam in my engine says to set the lash at 30 - 30. Surprised me. I didn't think what I measured was correct. Guess I'm wrong. Thanks everybody.............

Tod74

Can you give us exact,step by step instructions as to how to make that popcorn?

http://forums.racingjunk.com/viewtop...er=asc&start=0

chevyart

you guys always get right back with answers and i always listen. i have sbc with steel block and steel chevy heads. i adjust my valves sort of opposite of the aluminum head way. i set mine cold and set them aboune .004 LOOSE as i think the steel does just opposite movement than metal ive done it this way for15 years and it seems to work, but i could be wrong. think my engine builder told me to do it this way cold, and i always do them cold. i am open to your good advice thanks art PS i also use the EO_IC method, but i do it in a little more exact fashion. i adjust the intake when the exhaust is down 1/3 of the way(not all the way down or just starting down) and i adjust the exhaust when the intake is all the way open and 1/2 the way back up to closed. a few top tuners and cam manufacturers have said this is the best way to get the valves adjusted right using this eo-ic method art

TheRabbit

Valve adj. The never ending and always debatable topic.

Just out of curosity I checked out Crane's web site.
"With iron block and iron heads, add .002"
With iron block and aluminum heads, subtract .006".
With both aluminum block and heads, subtract .012".
Remember this correction adjustment is approximate and is only meant to get you close for the initial start up of the engine. After the engine is warmed up to its proper operating temperature range, you must go back and reset all the valves to the proper "hot" valve lash settings"


I use to adjust, adjust, and adjust my valves. I finally bought some good rocker arms and (also sold my ford lol) now harldy ever even check 'em.
If nothing is wrong they SHOULD NOT CHANGE between inspections.
If they keep changing, either your "feel" is not precise or something is wrong. Always note which valve is off, how much it was off. If it's the same valve(s) each time look for something going wrong.

BTW I think you should adjust 1 valve, make a pass down the strip and adjust another. Do this until you have them all adjusted! :lol:

I get the motor hot, check one side, then heat it up a little and check the other side. It doesn't take long to check one side, but long enough for it to cool down a good bit by the time you get ready to check the other side.
One good tip. If it's a high compression motor pull the plugs out. It's a lot easier on the starter if you do and really a lot easier if you turn the motor by hand.