rons toilet help
01-02-2009, 02:28 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by jed5161
normally i run enderele bird catchers on all my motors. i wanted to have the tall scoop to get catch air above the roll cage on the dragster. I've ran the toilets before on my old 68 camaro super gas car. Never had any problems with that system either.
I took the check valve out of the barrel when i put the higher psi poppet inline.
and yes the fuels all the way on. as far i know the egts are way high at idle during that situation. Which normally indicated its lean. The way the motor acted it was lean. Hesitation, lean backfiring, water temp gaining too quickly, etc. All my other systems idle temp egt temp would be in the 550-650 range. my high egt after a run would be 1120-1200 on this motor when it did run a clean pass. My 540 liked it about 1000-1100.
One other issue i forgot to mention was it seemed like the first pass of every day, the motor wouldn't get up the converter no matter what the tune up. It would rev to the 3500-3800 and stay there while on the brake. Carried it out to see what it would do once and after it cleaned out (100 ft-120ft out) it took off and ran fine. Lean it out one pill size and it would be fine for the next run. Then the next pass it would want the original pill back it in. It would be fine the rest of the night. Theres time i would be changin pills 4-5 times a day between 3 pill sizes (110, 112, 116)
I took the check valve out of the barrel when i put the higher psi poppet inline.
and yes the fuels all the way on. as far i know the egts are way high at idle during that situation. Which normally indicated its lean. The way the motor acted it was lean. Hesitation, lean backfiring, water temp gaining too quickly, etc. All my other systems idle temp egt temp would be in the 550-650 range. my high egt after a run would be 1120-1200 on this motor when it did run a clean pass. My 540 liked it about 1000-1100.
One other issue i forgot to mention was it seemed like the first pass of every day, the motor wouldn't get up the converter no matter what the tune up. It would rev to the 3500-3800 and stay there while on the brake. Carried it out to see what it would do once and after it cleaned out (100 ft-120ft out) it took off and ran fine. Lean it out one pill size and it would be fine for the next run. Then the next pass it would want the original pill back it in. It would be fine the rest of the night. Theres time i would be changin pills 4-5 times a day between 3 pill sizes (110, 112, 116)
01-02-2009, 02:40 PM
#22
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Don't know how you can consistantly set your barrel valve and idle with fuel shut off half pulled.Set blade angle and depending on which bv you have will be between 25-28%.Most I have set up idle at 480-520 degrees and do not milk the oil. Finish line temp is best at 1060-1100.Pulling shutoff to heat motor and warm up is all thats needed.
01-02-2009, 08:52 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by scooby389b
Zip,what size pump do you run?I would use a 0 on his combo.An idle bypass will not work with his b valve as no provisions on early valves.
Forgot to mention the Saucier pump has a 3 outlet manifold on it, so it's pretty easy to plumb and electric bypass into it.
Here's a pic. of the bypass if you look closely at the bottom left of the pic. at the drivers side of the water pump
Zip.
01-02-2009, 09:00 PM
#24
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you were using the electric bypass as a converter helper basically.OK got ya now.have seen a few higher hp small blocks that liked that esp with the older barrel valves as they were a little more restrictive and required a lot more pill that they did not like while on the chip.
01-02-2009, 09:17 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by scooby389b
you were using the electric bypass as a converter helper basically.OK got ya now.have seen a few higher hp small blocks that liked that esp with the older barrel valves as they were a little more restrictive and required a lot more pill that they did not like while on the chip.
Zip.
01-02-2009, 09:31 PM
#27
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blade closed, actually started at 25%, and backed it down until it was responsive, that with a .100 pill. Then rechecked the leakdown and it came out 18% i then set the blade to .008, it idles at about 1200 rpm with a 106 CL cam. That was the last time i checked it and i have turned it a couple or more flats during the tuning process. In reality i'm not for sure what it's set on right now, it could be higher. I mess with a lot of hilborn stacks injection and i find them to like about 22% i set those bldes at .002, and a few hats, strange but they like about 30% leakdown, don't know why unless it's because the butterfly are so far up from the nozzles.
Zip.
Zip.
01-02-2009, 09:36 PM
#28
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see what blade clearance is..prob 7-010.and see what leak is there.I set blade angle first and then bv to 28% on purple/black bvs and 25 on gray...bet we are in same ballpark setting at same blade angle cause as ya open blade up for idle leakdown increases.Hats need more bv because needs more fuel to cover stumble as they have a much bigger plenum..stacks less as they have virtually no plenum.
01-02-2009, 09:52 PM
#29
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I'm pretty sure we are close to the same when it's all said and done, i've got the purple barrel valve on my toilet. It never stumbles or anything, the only thing it's ever done was a highspeed lean pop when i first started running it and had a .125 pill in it, other than that it's like a carberator and easier to run. Maybe i was just lucky with mine, or it's because i've run injected or blown for a lot of yrs., but it just fell into place like it was supposed too.
Zip.
Zip.
01-02-2009, 10:03 PM
#30
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do you still have the check ball and spring in the return fitting? That is one of the biggest broblems I see as it will stick and will not return any fuel and will cause that stumble(really its an overrich blubber that dissapears as engine catches up to fuel supply) you saw on that 355 and can due it intermittantly.