Ally or iron block
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southampton UK
Posts: 8
Ally or iron block
I am having my challenger engine rebuilt and it should be making around the 1000 hp would it be better to also change to an ally block.
The engine will be supercharged
stroker kit - 528 ci
Indy race heads
any help appretiated
The engine will be supercharged
stroker kit - 528 ci
Indy race heads
any help appretiated
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Morrison, Colorado
Posts: 120
All depends on how much you are willing to spend, how much time on the street if street use is planned, etc. Aluminum blocks are expensive, so It's a big choice to make. Also going to take special attention to bearing clearances, warm up proceedures and such. No reason you can't run one, but they aren't necessary unless weight is your primary concern and expense is not. Not needed at 1000 hp, and you'll likely have better engine longevity with an iron block. Max effort engine where cost is not a concern, every pound counts, and you'll be checking the engine on a regular basis, aluminum. Don't confuse the aluminum block factory engines in cars like the Corvette either, those engines are designed to run for thousands of miles under normal street driving conditions. A 1000+ hp motor is a different animal altogether.
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brookings South Dakota
Posts: 244
Re: Ally or iron block
Originally Posted by vanillacc1
I am having my challenger engine rebuilt and it should be making around the 1000 hp would it be better to also change to an ally block.
The engine will be supercharged
stroker kit - 528 ci
Indy race heads
any help appretiated
The engine will be supercharged
stroker kit - 528 ci
Indy race heads
any help appretiated
If there is money in the budget, buy the aftermarket block, Iron or aluminum is up to your wallet thickness, both will support 1000+
Good luck with your build
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: potash country
Posts: 262
I have a question,where money is not a concern. I have a street/strip 1969 Camaro with all the goodies and want to install a 706ci. engine. The 706 iron blocks are heavy,so aluminum it will be.
Now does anyone know which manufacture has the lightest alum. block? (Rodeck, Keith Black, Dart,Brodix ect,ect,ect) Or is there much of a difference?
Now does anyone know which manufacture has the lightest alum. block? (Rodeck, Keith Black, Dart,Brodix ect,ect,ect) Or is there much of a difference?
#5
Originally Posted by nofear69
I have a question,where money is not a concern. I have a street/strip 1969 Camaro with all the goodies and want to install a 706ci. engine. The 706 iron blocks are heavy,so aluminum it will be.
Now does anyone know which manufacture has the lightest alum. block? (Rodeck, Keith Black, Dart,Brodix ect,ect,ect) Or is there much of a difference?
Now does anyone know which manufacture has the lightest alum. block? (Rodeck, Keith Black, Dart,Brodix ect,ect,ect) Or is there much of a difference?
BBC bellhousing and exhaust pattern
They start at 708 CID and go to 940 CID+
8.00 rods, 2.50 intake valves, 2.00 exhaust valves, 1.735 springs.
Fuel injected model is 714 total pounds with water pump/distributor/harmonic balancer/alternator and dry sump.
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: potash country
Posts: 262
I talked to CNC and Jacobs Perf. about the 706ci for my street car and man it sure sounded intriguing but I finally came to my senses........what would I do with all that torque on the street? Anyway I was really going to go for it and then a pump gas 540 came up forsale at a price I could give up,so I bought it.
Ya 540 on the street I think will be plenty enough....don't you think...
Ya 540 on the street I think will be plenty enough....don't you think...