Header choice?
#11
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 496
Originally Posted by whitey70ss
what size primary tube should I go with?? I have 1 5/8 now will the 1 3/4 hurt me??
#12
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,137
Originally Posted by montecarlo84
the super comps wrap around the frame and I had to slice the collector to bend it away from the power glide on the drivers side ,these headers were coated
the husslers are in frame,clear the gilde and are 1& 7/8 tube
the husslers are in frame,clear the gilde and are 1& 7/8 tube
#13
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 496
Originally Posted by Tod74
Originally Posted by montecarlo84
the super comps wrap around the frame and I had to slice the collector to bend it away from the power glide on the drivers side ,these headers were coated
the husslers are in frame,clear the gilde and are 1& 7/8 tube
the husslers are in frame,clear the gilde and are 1& 7/8 tube
#14
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 658
Originally Posted by Tod74
Originally Posted by montecarlo84
the super comps wrap around the frame and I had to slice the collector to bend it away from the power glide on the drivers side ,these headers were coated
the husslers are in frame,clear the gilde and are 1& 7/8 tube
the husslers are in frame,clear the gilde and are 1& 7/8 tube
#16
tell ya what Guys..i have found out if your anywhere close to being able to operate a Mig Welder (spot weld) and you are decently mechanically inclined with some patience..order you some straights and j Bends and flanges from Alston chassis and Build your own........
i was scared to death to do this before..then when i got to working from the flanges out..it was nothing....spot welded the joints together then took them to a Friend of Mine who done a nice neat final Tig on them.
(besides its only metal..you can always regrind and start over long as you don't cut them 6 inches short,,and you still can corrrect that with fitting a sleve coupler)..i learn the same way with installing rocker panels and floor pans.
just take your time and make use of a coat hanger or something flexiable to help you with the the geometery of the primaries...
you would be shocked at how little you will have in those headers
sure beats paying lemon $1500 for a set....buy the way lemon has nice headers
i was scared to death to do this before..then when i got to working from the flanges out..it was nothing....spot welded the joints together then took them to a Friend of Mine who done a nice neat final Tig on them.
(besides its only metal..you can always regrind and start over long as you don't cut them 6 inches short,,and you still can corrrect that with fitting a sleve coupler)..i learn the same way with installing rocker panels and floor pans.
just take your time and make use of a coat hanger or something flexiable to help you with the the geometery of the primaries...
you would be shocked at how little you will have in those headers
sure beats paying lemon $1500 for a set....buy the way lemon has nice headers
__________________
Bjuice..
"I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "
Bjuice..
"I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "
#17
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 658
Originally Posted by bjuice
tell ya what Guys..i have found out if your anywhere close to being able to operate a Mig Welder (spot weld) and you are decently mechanically inclined with some patience..order you some straights and j Bends and flanges from Alston chassis and Build your own........
Driver's side has 10 welds in the pipes. All are ground down and nearly invisible, and will be when the powder coating is done.
I just finished up the pass side final grinding/sanding tonight. I'll get them tacked to the flange, tack the EGT bungs, and tack the collector tabs on tomorrow night. Then it's time for some TIG welding by Ash Bros (here from RJ) to finish them up.
It's been a fun project, and not overly difficult. The hardest part was actually taking a die grinder to the fender, knowing the cost if I screwed the fender or paint up, lol.
#19
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Elm Mott, Texas
Posts: 197
Originally Posted by OneBadGMC
Originally Posted by bjuice
tell ya what Guys..i have found out if your anywhere close to being able to operate a Mig Welder (spot weld) and you are decently mechanically inclined with some patience..order you some straights and j Bends and flanges from Alston chassis and Build your own........
Driver's side has 10 welds in the pipes. All are ground down and nearly invisible, and will be when the powder coating is done.
I just finished up the pass side final grinding/sanding tonight. I'll get them tacked to the flange, tack the EGT bungs, and tack the collector tabs on tomorrow night. Then it's time for some TIG welding by Ash Bros (here from RJ) to finish them up.
It's been a fun project, and not overly difficult. The hardest part was actually taking a die grinder to the fender, knowing the cost if I screwed the fender or paint up, lol.
Hey onebadGMC, That is going to be one of my next projects due to clearance issues with mine running under the car now. Since you have experience you should come do mine for the fun of it. :lol: :lol:
#20
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 658
Originally Posted by lively
SWEET :lol: :lol: :lol: LOOKING GOOD 8) DO THEY EXIT OUT THE FENDER BOTTOM?
It took 4 U-Bends, 4 J-Bends, 2 flanges, 2 Weld on Collectors, and 2 feet of 2.5" tubing to make what you see.
I made my own slip on collectors from weld on collectors because I'm cheap and have enough time to do so.