TIMING MOVING

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Old 07-30-2009, 03:23 AM
  #21  
CamBirdRacing
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the outer ring on the balancer is loose. happened to me a couple of years ago.
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Old 07-30-2009, 03:24 AM
  #22  
mopar1962
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psst gm, it aint about your ride, magneto, no shit,ahahaha
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Old 07-30-2009, 03:58 AM
  #23  
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monte, whats locked out timing mean? It means your fully advanced when the cars fired up ,all in at idle,last post on the subject....
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Old 07-30-2009, 04:31 AM
  #24  
curtisreed
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Originally Posted by mopar1962
monte, whats locked out timing mean? It means your fully advanced when the cars fired up ,all in at idle,last post on the subject....
I say thanks then.
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Old 07-30-2009, 04:52 AM
  #25  
JEFF69Z28
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IM STILL LOST,MY DIST.IS LOCKED OUT,SET TIMING AT IDLE OR REV MOTOR TO 3000 RPM AND LOCK IT DOWN?AT IDLE ITS 34 SHOULDNT IT BE 34 AT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE.
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:47 AM
  #26  
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well it should be 34* 7 what is it at revs?
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:58 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mopar1962
monte, whats locked out timing mean? It means your fully advanced when the cars fired up ,all in at idle,last post on the subject....
I run a crank trigger, have a 5000 stall and a gear drive. I don't need no stinking curve.that's just more junk to brake.
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:59 AM
  #28  
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Yes Jeff it SHOULD still be at 34* at wot, BUT, it ain't necassarily so. As these guys said, before the argument, the clearances at idle can fool you into thinking you're setting the timing one place, but actually you're locking it down in another. That's why your timing appears to retard a little, as you speed the engine rpm up, all the clearences settle down, and you see where you've actually locked it down. Setting the timing at 3000 rpm is a good idea, cause it settles the clearences, and lets you see where you're actually setting timing at. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-30-2009, 07:02 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by OneBadGMC
Originally Posted by mopar1962
maybe if you knew how to set an advance curve ya wouldnt need to gut the distributor, slack in the chain? when the engines running it should take out the slack or maybe if your a real racer you would use a gear drive hotshot... :lol:


I do use a Donovan gear drive, and MSD pro mags dont have springs/weights timing curves, so I didnt gut anything.

Any other comments to put your foot in your face?
nice gear drive

mine is the same,but made by erson
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:00 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by suicidebomb
Yes Jeff it SHOULD still be at 34* at wot, BUT, it ain't necassarily so. As these guys said, before the argument, the clearances at idle can fool you into thinking you're setting the timing one place, but actually you're locking it down in another. That's why your timing appears to retard a little, as you speed the engine rpm up, all the clearences settle down, and you see where you've actually locked it down. Setting the timing at 3000 rpm is a good idea, cause it settles the clearences, and lets you see where you're actually setting timing at. Hope this helps.
Depending on the quality of the parts and build of the motor, a constant RPM even at increased RPMs may not be the answer.

Thats why I said rev the motor and look at the timing during the up swing of the RPMs.

The timing during engine acceleration is the timing that will be seen on the track.

Now, that being said, if you use engine RPM acceleration to note timing, and then double check it at 3,000, you then know that they are the same. Motors and tolerances will vary.
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