Engine combination input

Old 08-27-2009, 11:16 PM
  #11  
cepx111
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Welcome to the forum JR!

I like everything in the combo except for the cam.
you'd be better off with a solid roller, granted it's a lot more money to go that route but the results will be well worth the extra dough.

With your current combo you should easily see 11's and I'll go out on a limb and say 10's with a solid roller.

JMO>Cp
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Old 08-28-2009, 05:29 AM
  #12  
jrsmith80
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Originally Posted by OneBadGMC
Well, you're going to be limited by piston to valve clearance if the short block is together and the reciprocating assy is balanced.

How much piston to valve clearance do you have now with the cam that's in it?

My error on the compression, I used -7 instead of +7.

What rear gear is in the car? What trans? Bought a stall converter yet?
I do not know how much piston to valve clearence I have yet, I have not purchased a cam or any other parts of the valve train.

The starting rear gear is gonna be 4.56, I m going to be running a Redneck Performance TH350 Tranny with Transbrake and there 9.5" converter, planning on a 4000 stall.

Im liking all the ideas that are being posted here. I have thought about putting in a solid roller cam but decided against it for now just so I could get the motor together on a decent budget and go enjoy it. I do however plan to go that route later on, I will always need a winter project. My mind may change after reading what you guys are posting here.

Jeremy
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Old 08-28-2009, 05:43 AM
  #13  
jrsmith80
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Originally Posted by ashbros
I assume your using a 400 cid block.....
bore is 0.030 over

What cc are the head chambers, 64, 67, 72????

Rod length; is it 5.700 or 6.000
What is your block decked at 9.000 or ???

How much wrist pin is in the lower ring grove?

Curious
The block is a 350 block. The heads a 64cc chambers. I do not think the block was decked, it was just checked. As for the wrist pins, ther are almost clear through the lower ring grove.

Jeremy
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Old 08-28-2009, 05:58 AM
  #14  
bigmack
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jeremy you sound like me i did the samething with the cam but when the car went 11.84 i started looking for roller cam and a better converter be careful with redneck i had 7 passes on my converter doing my burnout on 8 th pass it let go call them and they want me to send them a $150 plus pay for parts and they would take care of it. i just got a ptc converter and was done with it, but think about it get the good stuff now and save some money.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:39 AM
  #15  
OneBadGMC
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Originally Posted by jrsmith80
Originally Posted by OneBadGMC
Well, you're going to be limited by piston to valve clearance if the short block is together and the reciprocating assy is balanced.

How much piston to valve clearance do you have now with the cam that's in it?

My error on the compression, I used -7 instead of +7.

What rear gear is in the car? What trans? Bought a stall converter yet?
I do not know how much piston to valve clearence I have yet, I have not purchased a cam or any other parts of the valve train.

The starting rear gear is gonna be 4.56, I m going to be running a Redneck Performance TH350 Tranny with Transbrake and there 9.5" converter, planning on a 4000 stall.

Im liking all the ideas that are being posted here. I have thought about putting in a solid roller cam but decided against it for now just so I could get the motor together on a decent budget and go enjoy it. I do however plan to go that route later on, I will always need a winter project. My mind may change after reading what you guys are posting here.

Jeremy
A solid roller is night and day in performance over a big flat tappet. Friction alone is a huge performance increase.
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:26 AM
  #16  
LLucas880
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Default cam

Hydraulic flat tappet cam in my opinion anything over .500 lift on these cams = increased wear wont last as long
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:45 PM
  #17  
ashbros
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x2
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:28 AM
  #18  
desoto30
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Originally Posted by bigmack
jeremy, think about it get the good stuff now and save some money.
I agree. The better parts may cost more up front, but often, especially after the inferior parts fail or fail to perform, & you wind up having to get the good bits anyway, How cheap were they really?
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