hyper pistons
#1
Senior Member
EXPERT BUILDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: nekoosa wisconsin
Posts: 308
hyper pistons
what kinda hp are these good for? i should be pushing 450-475 and will see 6800-7000 rpm not often but it will will my hyper pistons be ok at that kinda hp and rpm?
thanks logan
thanks logan
#3
Junior Member
SHOW GUEST
Join Date: Dec 1969
Posts: 6
i run 10.40,s,,,126,inna 55 chev sm blk 3700 lbs,13 to 1 an there kb,hyper pistons ,,,i never had a bit of problems with them,300 runs,,,there fine as far as i c,the top ring has to b set out some more gap than usual,they give u the formula in directions for setting out top ring gap...
I shift at 7000 go thru the lights at 7500
I shift at 7000 go thru the lights at 7500
#5
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 628
Dunno . . If you're geared for the quarter (or the eighth) and you're in the lights at 6800, I can't see the reason to twist one to 7000.
If you built the engine for purpose, your cam will dictate where your power curve ends and you either build it to a livable RPM range for a compromise in HP and Torque, or you put together a grenade . .
If you're going to drive the car primarily on the street, being able to wrap it to 7000 is going to cramp your style in reliability, driving ease and fuel mileage and cost.
Back in the day (and I think the physical ruleset still exists) 7200 RPM was the magic number that dictated the expense of a small block chevy. You could get by with a lot of cheap parts, and hypercast Pistons, etc. if you kept it under that number. After the magic number, if it wasn't bullet proof (Steel crank, Forged Pistons, one piece valves, etc) you were just expending ordinance . . and oiling the race track . .
Personally, if I was building a killer motor for my street beater and was going to race it now and then, I'd build a 6500 rpm torker and let it go at that. If you wanna run 12's or better, get serious and keep it off the street . . Or . . (Bite my tongue) Get a Rice Rocket and run 10's anyplace . .
If you built the engine for purpose, your cam will dictate where your power curve ends and you either build it to a livable RPM range for a compromise in HP and Torque, or you put together a grenade . .
If you're going to drive the car primarily on the street, being able to wrap it to 7000 is going to cramp your style in reliability, driving ease and fuel mileage and cost.
Back in the day (and I think the physical ruleset still exists) 7200 RPM was the magic number that dictated the expense of a small block chevy. You could get by with a lot of cheap parts, and hypercast Pistons, etc. if you kept it under that number. After the magic number, if it wasn't bullet proof (Steel crank, Forged Pistons, one piece valves, etc) you were just expending ordinance . . and oiling the race track . .
Personally, if I was building a killer motor for my street beater and was going to race it now and then, I'd build a 6500 rpm torker and let it go at that. If you wanna run 12's or better, get serious and keep it off the street . . Or . . (Bite my tongue) Get a Rice Rocket and run 10's anyplace . .
#8
What the cam is 'good for' depends upon a whole bunch of variables and parts and pieces all working efficiently together. Lots of folks can build grenades and go and piss folks off at the track/cleanup of aforementioned puzzle pieces. But to build an efficient, long lasting and CONSISTENT combo takes time and the right combo of parts. AND you'll have more fun cuz your not building / rebuilding a new engine all summer.
#10
pistons
make sure you dont run to much timing or lean it, The hyper pistons dont handle that very well, but otherwise usually work fine, Don Gffn, had them in his 383 with world heads and ran 12.6's in a monte...