thetanman101

Thanks for the info. I'll make you the same offer I made him... a trade on my tube chassis 1952 Studebaker.

malibuvette

I just traded my 2001 Vette for a Brogie 27 roadster. The new SFI 10.4 will be required for all left steer roadsters in 2008. Thi sincludes 8 new gussets on the drivers cage. The other things to be sre you fit the car. These cars are not very roomy and if you do not fit, the only thing you can do is ake a taller cage, and that is not a great option if it is a tall cage. They are pretty easy to drive, bt remember if you have the car set up for Super Gas to hit the tire hard to get good lights, if you try to run the car off of stop, it will likely stand up pretty hard. A goo long wheelie bar is a good idea. Good luck and have fun.

mcracecars

I have already done this upgrade for a customer... try this link for details
http://www.nhra.com/content/news.asp...15965&zoneid=8

mikeaton

well make sure its straight and thw wheel base is true on both sides unless its a comp car with a little "fudging on one side" try to stay away from the torsion bar front end and go with the funny car style control arms also sit in the car make sure your comfy and car see a little on both sides also check the cert dates if it has one as well there so much to check out ask around the track the car has run on and see if it goes straight or if its a hand full they might look cool crossed up but as a driver of one its not fun as it happens but boy are they fun when evry thing is fine!! o yea watch out for adger hes a show off especially those"white" legs :lol: HEY ADGER LONG TIME NO TALK!!! mike in artesia new mexico

27keith

With one of these cars there is no need for "9.90 set-up" kill the tires and make for bad ride down track. With a very soft bracket set-up I run 1.080 in the box. 3600 leave, tight 5400 converter, standard (slow) t-brake. This is with a small block. 60' are in the 1.18-1.20 range depending on track temp.I have never needed wheelie bars. Anybody barely breathing should be able to go .3xx on a pro tree. If someone can post pictures on here I have the paperwork on the 20* deal on the front hoop bar. Made about 2000 passes over the last 8 yrs in mine, best car I ever owned. It'll be a somber day if it ever goes down the road.

thetanman101

This link was very helpfull in picturing what is going to be required along with new helmet bars. Thanks alot for putting it up. Any guesstimates what a typical chassis shop might charge to install these gussets and a set of helmet bars? I know this will hugely vary from shop to shop, but I just need to know a round about figure. How many man hours do you think a job like this would take to accomplish? Also, on a mild steel chassis, does it have to be tigged?

Thanks,
-Tanner

bjuice

Tanner back a few years i owned a 23 T ALTERED. warren brogie chrome moly chassis hard tail with a 9 inch floater rear..it had a 19 inch cage and was very tight with me in it..almost uncomfortable..
i have a super glide tranny with push button air shiffter..( i strongly recommend this) its not fun trying to bump into high gear between your legs...and trust me if you have one of these bad boys that will really turn it on you will want both hands on the wheel at all times...

i had a 572 alcohol blown injected motor ..14-71 mert littlefield blower,pro-mag 12 magneto. bb2 brodix heads. dart big m block,sonny bryant crank, GRP aluminum RODS....the motor made right at 1600 hp at the mid level tune up and would bump upper 1800hp at 25 lbs of boost..

17x33 beadlocks...the car was down right SCARY...you did not drive it you pointed it..it would drift and you better know when to lift.....

this type of car you had to drive 200 ft ahead..what i mean by this is you must stare down the track approx 200 ft and use your perefferll vision for the rest ..cause by the time you air shifted into high gear you have done traveled down the track that 200 ft.....if you did not drive ahread of yourself you were in trouble..

the car was capable of some high 3.80 low 3.90 1/8 mile passes..the best ET it ran was a low 4.30 at 165 mph and this was hazing the tires.. 'I DID NOT RUN THESE ET'S IN THIS CAR..SEAN MCDONALD OUT OF ATLANTA GA RAN THESE ET'S...


i personally DO NOT recomment this car for any un-experieneced driver ( not saying you are)..and i personally will not ever own another one...

you can put a crate motor in this light (sob's) and they will run..cause they are so light...


good luck to you....my advise to you is stick with a door car...( my opinion only)..ohh by the way i sold this car to a man out of witchita kansas..he has never driven a drag car in his life ( only drag boats)..i gave him the launch and shut down prodcedure in my drive way..i ask him did he have his life insurance policy up to date..he thought i was kidding but when i did not smile he and his wife knew i was serious..i looked both of them in the eye and told them this was no toy and it WOULD KILL YOU and did they understand what they were buying......
they loaded it up and off they went..its been 2 years ago and i have never heard from him...

i will try to find some pics of this car and post them..i had them on here a few years back..

Brian

mcracecars

Tanner,
no mild steel does not have to be tigged.
the ones I installed were the tube versions, I think it looks less of an add on. they were 4130, tigged, and 8 of them. Figure a good 1 1/2 to 2 hours apeice to fit and install, depending on what the chassis shop charges, could be 500 to 800 bucks. I think I charged the guy 600 or so, but there was stuff to dismantle, then reinstall, chassis was powdercoated so you gotta clean that off where you weld to.
mild steel would go quicker and a little cheaper.
The plates would be easier and quicker to do, and if you got a mig welder, and can use it, you can do it yourself, or fit the plates and take it somewere to get welded.
I have some pics here somewere I can email to you, I havnet figured out how to add pics yet here...

mcracecars

Brian, the guys up here that have roadsters really seem to like them. It seems if it has a long wheelbase and well built it should not be too much of a handful. Very easy to go fast in one of those, but then you can get carried away with hp and then they get scary. Remember those fuel alterds? Those things would swing around and bite you in the butt with no warning at all....
If you want to run low9s or 8s for cheap, and have the car fit in your garage, they are the way to go... :lol:
But like you, im a doorslammer kind of guy.....

thetanman101

If the trade goes through, I'll be putting the mild 355 out of the Studie into it. I doubt very much this motor will give much of a wild ride, but it loves to wind out over 7400 rpms! I'll post the ad below, for ya'lls inspection. It needs paint, helmet bars, and gussets, and possible rewiring (this is per the owner, I haven't inspected it yet). To me, I won't feel the swap is worthwhile if he is not willing to take care of updating the chassis. And even then it's a toss up, with having to put more money into the paint and go through the trouble of swapping motors. But I can't get out from under the Studie, even at a hugely discounted price (and me taking a good sized loss), so it's time to try something different. I've wanted to try a roadster anyways, just maybe a little better quality of one. But this one happens to be in the value range of my car, if it's actually worth close to it's asking price. Hopefully it will be easier to sell once painted. Enough of my rambling.

http://racingjunk.com/post/910923/1927-T-Roadster.html

-Tanner