BBC 572 questions.

Old 07-19-2009, 05:02 PM
  #11  
radicalz
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Originally Posted by russ67chevelle
UDHAROLD would be the first person to find for a cam

cam king is also very respected here

comp cams Mr goldman is supposed to be verrrry knowledgeable.

if no luck with udharold or cam king here try speedtalk.com they should be there for sure
yep ultradyne or comp cams...call them with what you are building they can suggest a grind or build one to your needs...
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Old 07-19-2009, 05:56 PM
  #12  
OneBadGMC
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Call Rob Adler at A-Team auto. Tell him what you're doing with it and he'll suggest something appropriate. http://local.yahoo.com/info-17315130...ed-tinley-park

You might remember Rob/Randy Adler from having the fastest street car on the planet back in the late 90s. Was a 67 GTO. They now race Super Chevy Nitro Coupe.

Ditch the 4.5" stroke. It makes too much torque, especially with the roots blower. 4.25" stroke should be max or it'll be a bitch to hook up. Centrifugal blower guys can get away with longer stroke cranks because they can stage the boost. Us roots guys can't.

Donovan gear drive over Jesel belt, in case you ever decide to go to a front mag drive. Bigger carbs... Don't starve that blower for air.
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:14 AM
  #13  
Dahlton
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I was planing on using dual Ron's terminators but it is an money issue so i tought that I'll use the carbs to start with, and see how it works.
I will spin the motor 6500-7000rpm and canot use that much boost because I will run on pump gas.

I have gone over the stroke in my head many times and always as confused... but I think that I'll go with the 4.5" because I have that all ready and I have 17" wide slicks so I hope that they will grab atleast something.
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Old 07-22-2009, 07:12 AM
  #14  
OneBadGMC
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Why twin Ron's terminators when an Enderle is the industry standard for a blower?

If you ever decide to upgrade blowers, the newer ones don't use a full length top opening. The opening is only ~10" front to rear. This will create issues in mounting those terminators.

Get ya a Bird/Buzzard hat when you decide to move over to injection and be done with it.
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Old 07-22-2009, 08:47 PM
  #15  
Dahlton
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The only reason for the terminators would be air cleaner options.
I want to use an air cleaner just to make me sleep better at night.
I don't like the looks off the air cleaners that Enderle people use.

Good to know about the new blowers. on my blower the "rear" part of the intake opening is a little bigger than the front. and bottom is a fully open.

BTW is there a manufacturer that makes carb adapters for 14-71 blowers or do I need to make one my self?
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:34 AM
  #16  
OneBadGMC
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http://www.rbssuperchargers.com/Page...D=3921&Search=

They should have the adapter you need.

www.rbssuperchargers.com and www.dragparts.com are going to be your two best sources for the majority of blower stuff you'll need.

As for an air filter...

Unless you're driving around in sandy Nevada, or in corn fields of the midwest, I wouldn't sweat no air cleaner too much.

Electronic or mechanical injection with a bird catcher will make so much more power than a carb its not even funny (especially if you go with alky).
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:08 PM
  #17  
ashbros
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How much boost you plan on running with that 14/71 on the street.

Hammer I am with you. I have had pretty good luck with Jesel Pro Comp series & T&D rockers, I have ran the sportsmans rockers on small block blower motors with no problems, but never on a bbc. Reason being, I have just always had good luck with the Jesel pro series & never thought about trying something different.

OneBad has made 3 really good points you should really think about
considering. If there is anyone on this site with an overwhelming amount of knowlege pertaining to blower applications; OneBad is the man...........

1) If you really want to have fun with your BBC, lower that stroke. keep it between 3.625 to 4.250. Depending on my application, I perfer using 3.625 thru 4.00 strokes for BBC blower applications. I understand everything is already bought, but the bottom end of your motor is the foundation of your power plant.... and should be built factoring in the type of chassis it is scheduled to be installed in and your expectations of the driving applications i.e. prostreet driving or Track only..

When driving on that dusty black to heading to your local burger joint, 900+++ ft. lbs of torque could make for a bad afternoon ride.

2) Put a injection hat on that bad boy. I am sure you can purchase a really nice used enderle bird already set up for about the same price of those carbs.

3) Run Alcohol. If you really want to know what having fun is all about, there ain't nothing better than combining Alcohol injection with a blower application. Trust me you'll be thanking OneBad for that suggestion.

Converting to and running alcohol on a street rod is not difficult at all.

For the street I would not go over .700 lift on the cam, but TJMO.
You'll have plenty of HP & torque to spin those 17 inch tires on the black top.. It may also reduce your top end maintenance and possibly reduce parts failure.

Good Luck w/ your build. Keep us posted. We'ed like to here about your HP & Torque numbers. Post a few pics as you progress.,...
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:59 AM
  #18  
Dahlton
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I'm not sure about boost pressure. I'll have to find out how much boost pump gas can handle maybe 10-18psi? I was hoping that I would not have to spin the blower so fast that's why I bought a 14-71.

Alky would be sweet! so I could use higher boost, the only problem is that I cant buy it from the stations around here we have 95 and 98 octane and also Shell v-power. (I live in Finland (northern Europe)).

I'll post some pictures when I start to assemble the engine.

I build the engine with one goal and that is to have black on white that it makes OVER 1000hp

The whole idea with this build is to get a ridicilous engine for an street legal classic american car that can blow the shit outoff all the turbo jap's that we have around here. It is really interested to hear about their cars turn 10sec in the quarter with only minor turbo upgrades but still you never see them at the tracks...
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:40 AM
  #19  
OneBadGMC
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Check with commercial industrial chemical suppliers.

You can buy drums of methanol for dirt cheap, that have certificates of purity.

To ensure you're getting a pure product, you can also buy a hydrometer for as little at 57.00 to check the water content on the spot. If the drum has more than .5% water, don't take it.

http://www.goodvibesracing.com/hydrometers.htm

The stuff I buy here in the states is certified to 99.99% pure methanol.

Once you use methanol as a roots blower fuel, you'll NEVER EVER want to even consider gasoline for anything but your tow rig (unless you have a diesel).

You did yourself a favor in getting the big blower. Slowing the rotors down helps with keeping the air cool, but Kuhl has been out of business for quite a while now and there's quite a few better blowers out (even for gas).

The imports have a HUGE advantage in gas, simply because they're running centrifugal blowers or turbos, and have the ability to inter cool the air. Roots doesn't have that ability, and as such it's hard to get a cool, dense intake charge on anything but alky.
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Old 07-28-2009, 02:57 AM
  #20  
Dahlton
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I was planing on using a wather/alky injection for cooling the air at higher boost (when racing).

Do you have any idea how much boost it would make if I run it approx 1:1?

BTW
Who makes the best Roots blowers theese days? I heard alot off good things about Kuhl superchargers when Mike Kuhl had his business.

Also one reason why I'm using carbs is that I've heard that part throttle "cruising" is impossible with a Birdcatcher, that it is sort of an on/off throttle?
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