Dyno Flow engine builders
#31
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Coldwater, MI
Posts: 2,998
Originally Posted by TheRabbit
Originally Posted by firepro65
I will, he said about a week. The funny thing was. When he dynoed it, on the first pull it was lean as hell. He said I hope it was ok. I got it on video. What is sad about the whole thing is, I was going to buy a stage 2 from Shaifiroff but wanted to keep the money in my town, he talked a good game. I am an idiot.
Now the 565 this is the good one .. suppose to make 965hp and came with a dyno sheet. It was in the same year/brand dragster as mine, but some how my sb was out running the bb. Many changes later carb/conv and other parts its still running like a 800hp motor. He says o well and races it, breaks a pushrod with 75 passes on it. It gets taking apart, to find the parts he paid for were NOT in the motor, had a very small roller cam, wrong crank/rods/pistons from what he ordered and paid for. Calls them and they say well its been over 90 days sorry nothing we can do. Gets put back together with all new parts (the ones he wanted orginally) and it picked up 3 tenths in the 1/8th ...
so I put them in the same place I put dynoblow ... :shock:
#34
so I put them in the same place I put dynoblow ...
Guess I'm glad I never bought anything from either of them.
I will say this their are only a few names in mud rcaing that have engines in the top trucks. Steve Schmidt and Steve Vance are no doubt in the top hp makers. And they last. My builder is Vance because he's a friend and I bug him 20 times a week and on race nights. I could help him build my motor and stand next to him when it's on the dyno if I wanted too.
If I have any problems he will answer my call at 1:00 am on a Saturday night to help me out. I wouldn't change builders for that reason alone!!
#35
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Coldwater, MI
Posts: 2,998
Originally Posted by jenavet
hammertime
while your on a roll why dont you talk about apd??
while your on a roll why dont you talk about apd??
but will say this .. the motor builder there (Chris) I would trust to do my motor again...
Still hard to beat Nyes for what ya get for the price ya get it at.
#36
Junior Member
JOURNEYMAN
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 25
dyno-flo update
Well dropped my entire motor off, including engine plate, supercharger, ETC... He did not say a word to me when there. He had a employee unload it and he said through this employee 1 to 1 1/2 weeks. I called and was told I could pick it up this Thursday the 22nd of Oct. Ask what they found with no responce. Recap: brand new 540 put in car and started it pressurized cooling system. When car cooled for 24 hours, open radiator cap and it blew everywhere. He says I screwed it up. Bought dynoed turnkey motor installed it and what a piece of shit, water in oil and radiator pressurized. I am not a mechanic, this is why we go to these places and they give you a line of crap like they are your buddy. And when you need help just getting the dam thing started they call you stupid. Anyways, I will let you all know on Friday If the engine is repaired and what was wrong with it. Doubt he will tell me, or just say I broke it. So far other than crappy customer service, he is doing what he said he would. Not holding my breathe though. Until Friday.
#37
Junior Member
JOURNEYMAN
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 25
Dynoflo
well picked my motor up from Scott. Has anyone ever seen clear silicone for the intake manifold? It is goobed on like hell. I never have seen clear for the ends on the intake. Please let me know, prior to me installing this in my car. I am hopeing to install it on Saturday morning. He replaced the head gaskets and who knows what. He did not say a word to me when there. So if anyone knows about clear silicone for automotive use please let me know. I dont know much about cars and depend on the pros that I hire. I guess that is my first mistake. I f this dont work I will talk to the guys at NYES see what they can do to help me. Thanks everyone.
#39
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 504
Clear silicone adhesive is OK. I use clear silicone adhesive that permatex makes. This stuff is great for racing engines in most cases. Builders often will get permatex or equal in a 14 oz tube for a caulk gun to assemble engines due to there frequent use. They may have got a killer deal on clear this purchase?
As for the coolant, if you just started up once you likely had a air pocket in the block that raced out when you opened the cap. That is, unless you mean that you had coolant everywhere spraying in the engine, then that is another matter. That is not unusual at all with engines running low in the front to trap air in the engine after the first start up and launch coolant out the filler neck when the water pump is off. Jack the front of your car up when you fill coolant and run the pump to perge out all the trapped air in the cooling system and always use a closed system and you will not have trouble unless your cap is not the highest point in your cooling system when the pump is running or if you do not have some kind or bleed in the radiator to remove air.
Bruce
PS. sorry I did not read your entry as well as I should have. The coolant in the oil is bad. The silicone he used may not have been good or something much worse may have happened . I hope things are not as they appear
As for the coolant, if you just started up once you likely had a air pocket in the block that raced out when you opened the cap. That is, unless you mean that you had coolant everywhere spraying in the engine, then that is another matter. That is not unusual at all with engines running low in the front to trap air in the engine after the first start up and launch coolant out the filler neck when the water pump is off. Jack the front of your car up when you fill coolant and run the pump to perge out all the trapped air in the cooling system and always use a closed system and you will not have trouble unless your cap is not the highest point in your cooling system when the pump is running or if you do not have some kind or bleed in the radiator to remove air.
Bruce
PS. sorry I did not read your entry as well as I should have. The coolant in the oil is bad. The silicone he used may not have been good or something much worse may have happened . I hope things are not as they appear
#40
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 459
Dyna Flow engine builders
I prefer Valco aluminum silcone to every brand I have ever tried. It looks good under the manifold and stays in place well. It is a different consistancy than GE based silicones.It sets up faster too.
As far as the clear silicone, I have one customer that uses it on his Blown Hemi engine for everything and it seems to hold up OK.
He uses it because you can buy it in the large 9 ounce tubes and squirt it out of a calking gun. It is much cheaper that way and he uses it in his Heating and Air Conditioning business anyway.
It does work if the surfaces are clean, just looks cheesy to me.
As far as the clear silicone, I have one customer that uses it on his Blown Hemi engine for everything and it seems to hold up OK.
He uses it because you can buy it in the large 9 ounce tubes and squirt it out of a calking gun. It is much cheaper that way and he uses it in his Heating and Air Conditioning business anyway.
It does work if the surfaces are clean, just looks cheesy to me.