Tod74

The stud is the same sixze as hole in wheel( 11/16) and you use a washer and nut. The nut is just a flange nut not a typical lug nut with shank

dcarr511

What did you do to drill them ? When I tired it on a pair of Moser Axles I used a Carbide bit and couldnt cut through them, had to send them back in so they could be annealed, drilled and then rehardened.

Return & Shipping and labor was around 100 $

suicidebomb

Mine are mosers too, we drilled them on a bridgeport, but I don*t remember using any special drill. But we may have, we did it about 4 years ago in a friend of mines machine shop, if he can remember i*ll find out and post here.

Tod74

I thought you had to send em off....that is what I have heard...mine was already done when I got the car.

itsabird

i don,t think, that section of the axel is as hard as the shaft, so it would be drillable if thats a fact, but it will have to be taped for screw in studs, i don,t know of any press fit 5/8 studs. it might be less of a pain to send them out.

suicidebomb

Guys, I dont remember them being hard to drill at all. I did the drilling after he helped me set up the mill, and we tapped the holes for screw in studs. I*M still trying to get a hold of him, when I do I*ll let you know.

suicidebomb

It took me awhile to run him down, but I finally found him. For that I apologize. HE said that we used a titanium nitride bit. he said it was very sharp, and he said we drowned it in oil. run the bit at 175 RPM. Anyhow, thats how he said we did it. I think we did the whole thing, all 10 holes in less than an hour including setting up the mill. We used the mill to tap the holes also.

olds48

I'd be more concerned with the tapping than the drilling....if you get ONE hole started crooked your stud will poke out all crazy and you WON'T be able to get your wheels on...or have another chance to fix it ops: I believe in doing everything you can yourself,but unless you have the proper machines...leave it to the pros.That's just my $.02

curtisreed

Eric,
It's not that hard to get a tap started straight, just get a piece of material as thick as the threads on the tap are long, drill it so the tap just fits through it. Clamp it to the flange in line with the hole, you have your guide that way. Easy and straight. Of course the best way is just use the mill to do it, no problem if you have access to a mill. I just through it up on my HMC and push the button.

Curtis

suicidebomb

Just as soon as i get a place for a good used mill, I*m gonna get me one. Mans greatest invention next to the thermos bottle!